Stop Guessing! Here’s How to Water Your Tomatoes the Right Way

A lush tomato garden with green and ripe tomatoes growing on plants, showcasing the title 'How to Water Tomatoes' at the top.

So, you’ve decided to plant tomatoes this year! Congratulations. Fresh tomatoes are a true gift of nature: so much sweeter and more flavorful than what you can find at the supermarket that you’d almost think they weren’t the same plant. And there are many, many ways to eat them, so even if you grow a lot, you’ll be able to use them.

There are plenty of secrets to growing good tomatoes you can read about, and they’ll help you get bigger yields or avoid pests, but the only thing that tomatoes really need is a spot to grow, plenty of light, and clean water.

But if you’re a newbie to the world of growing tomatoes, you may not be sure exactly how much water to give them. If they don’t get enough, the plants won’t fruit, or the tomatoes will be undersized. If they get too much, or if you water inconsistently, you risk mealy tomatoes, split skin, dry patches, blossom rot, or other issues.

How to Tell Your Plants Need Watering

While you might think a wilting plant is a sign that it needs water—and it sometimes is—it’s not the most reliable indicator. Young tomato plants can wilt in the heat, even if they have enough water. And besides, you wouldn’t want to wait until your plant looked so stressed to add water anyway.

Instead, the best way to tell is to feel the soil. If the top inch of soil feels dry and crumbly, chances are that your tomatoes need to be watered.

The Best Way to Water Tomatoes

The goal when watering tomatoes is to keep the soil consistently moist. If the plant spends too many days dry then gets a deluge of water, the fruit will develop dry patches on its skin, which then split when it attempts to grow—and the split skins can lead to rotting.

However—and this is important—you don’t want to douse the leaves or stems of the plant if you can help it. Moist leaves and stems can lead to unwanted fungal rotting.

Therefore, the best way to water tomatoes is close to the ground, directly into the dirt around the base of the plant. Water deeply, so the water penetrates to the roots, and water regularly. If you can, try to water early in the morning or in the evening after the sun has gone down. This will help keep most of the water in the soil, instead of evaporating.

Another good way to keep water from evaporating is to mulch around each plant, so that the dirt has less access to the air.

How Often to Water Young Plants

As the plants grow, water them once a day or every other day. You’ll want to water them a little more deeply, especially as they get bigger, to help them develop deeper roots. If the soil dries faster, water them a little more often. If it remains moist for a couple days, then you can back off to avoid overwatering.

How Often to Water Mature Plants

Once the plants are mature and before they fruit, they’ll need deep water about once a week. Mel Bartholomew, author of Square Foot Gardening recommends giving every 4 tomato plants about 1 to 2 gallons of water per week, or twice a week during very hot weather.

One exception is if you’re growing your plants in pots or other containers. Because more of the dirt is exposed to the environment, the soil is likely to dry out faster and may need to be watered much more frequently (although it will need less water each time).

Other Factors to Consider When Watering

Some other factors to consider are the soil environment: if the soil you’re using is sandy and prone to dry out, your tomatoes will need to be watered more often (and may need some fertilizer as well).

If the soil is dense and muddy or clay, which retains a lot of moisture, your plants may need to watered a little less frequently.

You’ll also want to consider what kinds of tomatoes you’re growing. Some plants are bred for growing in pots, for instance, with shallow root systems that need less water. Others that are bred to produce tomatoes all summer (instead of a single crop) and to grow in the ground, will have larger root systems that require a lot more water to stay moist.

Source: Country Living©

7 Pruning Mistakes to Avoid for Thriving, Productive Tomato Plants

Tomatoes are garden royalty—and for good reason! Their rich flavor makes them a must-have in every backyard and greenhouse. That’s exactly what got me hooked on growing my own. Homegrown always beats store-bought, and luckily, tomatoes aren’t fussy. But here’s the deal: pruning is the real game-changer. Do it right, and your plants will reward you with a bumper crop. I’m talking baskets overflowing! But slip up just once, and your harvest could go downhill fast. So, let’s nip those common mistakes in the bud before they ruin your tomato dreams!

#1 Always Make Sure That Your Tools Are Clean and Tidy

If you use rusty tools during pruning, there’s a chance that your plants will be damaged. That’s why it’s important to have clean, sharp gear at your home. 

Before using them on tomatoes, you can take a piece of paper and do a little test. If they cut cleanly on the first try, then there’s no need to sharpen them.

You also need to clean your tools more often! Pruning infected fruit can easily spread infections to your healthy plants. Wash them with warm water and soap, and they’re ready to go! 

Bear that in mind next time you go trimming!

#2 Choose the Right Time

You should never prune when it’s hot outside. Especially during the afternoon! This can only cause stress to the plants and lead to wilted leaves.

#3 Don’t Prune Wet Tomatoes

If it rained the night before pruning, leave it for another day! If you prune while the leaves are wet, you could attract fungi to your tomatoes! They will slow down your plant’s growth, which is not good at all!

#4 Try Not to Overdo Plant Trimming

©Source: Reddit

It’s important to know how to prune correctly! If you overdo it, a lot of problems could arise, such as sunburn on plants, reduced fruit yield, and a less desirable taste!

That’s why it’s crucial never to remove more than one-third of the leaves at once. Thinning them out allows heat to reach the tomatoes more easily! It’s always a good idea to proceed step by step. This way, you ensure faster and healthier growth!

#5 Avoid Pruning Determinate Varieties

You should always check which variety you are dealing with before pruning. Determinate varieties should never be cut! Do you know why? They stop growing at a certain height. You can recognize them by their bushy shape. 

#6 Stay Away from Cutting the Wrong Stems

Focus on the shoots and leaves while pruning! If they are smaller than two inches, you won’t need tools, you can simply pinch them off with your fingers!

Just don’t cut off the main stem. Only remove the top! This will help the plant to put more effort into producing new fruits! As for the leaves, remove those at the bottom.

#7 Don’t Forget About Air Circulation

It’s not just about looks—thinning your tomato plant helps it breathe! When stems and leaves are packed too tightly, air can’t circulate properly. This creates a perfect environment for mold and pests to thrive.

That’s why it’s good to remove the dense foliage around the center of the plant. This will allow sunlight and air to reach all parts of the tomato, keeping it strong and healthy. Remember, a well-ventilated plant is a happy plant!

Source: Positive Bloom©

List of Garden Vegetables to Grow for Beginner and Intermediate Gardeners

Growing fruits and vegetables in your garden can be a rewarding experience for the whole family. However, not all fruits and veggies are equally easy to master and a few can be downright difficult. Continue on for a list of garden vegetables to grow for all levels.

Some crops are considered cool season crops, while others are warm season crops. Cool season crops such as peas, broccoli and potatoes tend to grow better in the spring and fall, while warm season crops do best when planted in late spring and mature throughout the summer. Utilizing succession planting can be a huge benefit to bolster your crops.

Tomato, Cherry Baby Hybrid

Beginner Veggies

We’ll start with a few vegetables that just about anyone can grow — even on a porch or patio! These plants are hardy, versatile and produce an abundance of crops you can share with friends and family.

Peas

Peas love cool temperatures and do best when planted in spring or fall. These climbing plants use their tendrils to wrap around whatever they can to hold their thin vines steadfast while they grow upward. As they mature, peas produce flowers and pods relatively quickly. Because of their quick growth, they can be planted in close proximity to other garden vegetables and along fence lines. Plant cultivars such as ‘Easy Peasy’ for first picking in about 60 days and for an extended harvest, plant three rounds of seeds in one-week intervals.

Lettuce

When discussing vegetable gardening for beginners, you can’t pass up lettuces. These fast-growing plants can be sown directly in the garden and harvested in as little as 50 days. For variety, try a leafy mix such as the ‘Looseleaf Blend’ and enjoy different leaf shapes, colors and textures. While lettuce has a tendency to bolt (go to flower), keeping your plants well-watered and shielded from extreme heat can help extend the harvest of crisp leaves. You can also extend your harvest by planting successive crops every two weeks throughout the growing season.

Hybrid Tomatoes

Homegrown tomatoes can hardly be compared to store-bought fruit with their vine-ripened sweetness, juicy texture and bright colors. Hybrid cherry tomatoes such as ‘Cherry Baby’ are easy-to-grow warm season crops and will produce fruit 70 days from planting. Cherry tomatoes are particularly easy to grow because they produce many smaller fruits that ripen quickly and take less energy from the plant. Most cherry tomatoes are also indeterminate growers, meaning they continue to grow and set fruit throughout the season, ensuring a steady crop.

Squash

No list of garden vegetables to grow would be complete without summer squash. Given full sun and plenty of water, these warm season growers reach maturity in about 40 to 50 days after planting and will continue to produce until late summer. Cultivars such as ‘Burpee’s Best’ zucchini can be started outdoors in late spring after all danger of frost has passed.

Broccoli, Sun King Hybrid

Intermediate Veggies

The next five vegetables take the experience level up a notch. Although perfectly doable in the home garden, they require more planning and patience to be successful. Given a little extra attention, they’re sure to be nutritious additions to the annual vegetable garden.

Broccoli

Broccoli is a staple food item in most homes, but few people realize they take a bit more care to grow in the home garden. As with most vegetables in the cabbage family, broccoli is a cool season crop and does best when planted in spring, fall or even during the winter months in warmer climates. Also like their cabbage relatives, when stressed by heat, drought or crowded roots, they’ll “bolt” and go to flower, so you’ll have to take care to keep these plants happy. Bolt-resistant cultivars such as ‘Sun King’ should be planted in well-composted, moist soil in full sun and reach maturity at 70 to 80 days after planting. For successive plantings, sow seeds indoors before the last frost and continue for three to four weeks thereafter.

Potatoes

Native to the Andes mountains in South America, potatoes are another cool season crop that prefers rich soil and plenty of room to spread their roots. What makes potatoes a little more difficult is that they’re best grown in raised mounds above the soil line for ease of eventual harvest. Potatoes are started as “seed potatoes” — basically sliced up potatoes, each with its own “eye” or growth point — and sown in the soil as soon as it can be worked in early spring. Cultivars such as ‘Yukon Gold’ are medium-sized spuds and ready for harvest about 100 days after planting. To harvest, remove soil from around the base of the plant and gently tug at the plant, allowing for the soil to fall away. Then, gently dig out the remainder of the potato.

Winter Squash

Winter squash grows in much the same way as summer squash and can be started outdoors after the last frost. What makes winter squash more difficult to grow is that it tends to require more time to mature its thick outer skin and grows on longer sprawling vines. Selections such as ‘Burpee’s Butterbush’ can be stored for months in a cool, dark place within the home and make excellent soups long into the winter season! Be sure to choose a location within your yard where the vines can have plenty of space and full sun throughout the growing season.

Sweet Corn

Sweet corn is another crop that requires a lot of square footage for mass planting and plenty of sun, but it deserves a place on our intermediate list of garden vegetables to grow. For those with the space, plant these crops en masse for proper pollination and give them as much full sun as possible throughout the summer. While corn is drought tolerant, the ears will fill out much better when given ample moisture — especially as ears begin to appear. Because sweet corn is wind pollinated, plant cultivars such as ‘Early Sunglow’ at two- to three-week intervals with other types of corn to avoid cross-pollination.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes are a sight to see in the summer garden. Bursting with flavor and with a classic old-school tomato look, cultivars such as ‘Brandywine Pink’ are the epitome of garden Americana. What sets heirlooms apart from hybrid tomatoes, however, is these plants are more difficult to grow. If you’re new to gardening, they can also be somewhat underwhelming: Heirlooms lack the vigor of hybrids and produce far fewer fruits on large, rambling vines. You’ll need to take care with their placement in the garden and keep moisture at a constant to avoid cracked tomato skins. When you meet these requirements, they’re sure to be the talk of the table and enjoyed by tomato lovers!

Written by Derek Carwood, Greenwood Horticulture