Which Plants Repel Rabbits Effectively?

Hunker.com promotes humane deterrents.  They state that while rabbits can be charming, they also pose a threat to gardens and decorative plants. They advise homeowners to use non-lethal methods such as removing tall grass, filling burrows with gravel, and installing two-foot-high chicken wire fences. These measures aim to make yards less inviting without harming the animals.

Also, many strongly scented or toxic plants—like lavender, mint, daffodils, alliums, sage, and marigolds—are effective at repelling rabbits due to their aroma, texture, or toxicity.

In addition to the above, here is a clear, evidence‑based breakdown of the most reliable rabbit‑resistant plants, grounded in the sources found:

 Top Plants That Repel Rabbits (Evidence‑Based)

1. Lavender

Rabbits dislike its strong fragrance, while pollinators love it.

2. Mint

Its pungent scent is a natural deterrent. (Grow in containers—it spreads aggressively.)

3. Daffodils

All parts of the plant are toxic to rabbits, making them one of the most reliable rabbit‑proof bulbs.

4. Alliums (Ornamental Onions)

Their onion‑like smell repels rabbits and they come in many sizes and colors.

5. Sage

Its leathery leaves and earthy aroma make it unappealing to rabbits.

6. Marigolds

Their strong scent repels rabbits and other pests, making them excellent companion plants.

Additional Rabbit‑Resistant Options

These plants are not rabbit‑proof, but rabbits tend to avoid them due to texture, bitterness, or scent:

  • Astilbe – Rabbits dislike its foliage texture.
  • Anise Hyssop – Strong anise scent repels rabbits.
  • Other strong‑scented herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano (inferred from similar scent‑based deterrent patterns across sources).

 How to Use These Plants Strategically

To maximize protection:

  • Create a perimeter of strongly scented plants (lavender, mint, sage, alliums).
  • Interplant deterrents among vulnerable crops like lettuce, beans, or flowers rabbits love.
  • Use toxic bulbs (daffodils, alliums) around garden beds as a natural barrier.
  • Combine with physical barriers (like fencing) if rabbits are persistent. Sources note that hungry rabbits may still eat almost anything.

Why These Plants Work

Rabbits avoid plants that are:

  • Strongly scented (lavender, mint, alliums)
  • Toxic (daffodils)
  • Tough, fuzzy, or leathery (sage, astilbe)
  • Bitter‑tasting (many herbs)

These scents overwhelm their sensitive noses or simply taste unpleasant.

In addition, humane repellents, both store-bought and homemade, can be applied around vulnerable plants, with caution advised for vegetable gardens to ensure food safety. Common DIY repellents include garlic, red pepper, cayenne and soap flakes.

Source:  co-pilot©

 

Related reading:

How to use cayenne pepper to protect your garden – TUTORING YOU

Dividing Perennials in Spring

 

Quick facts

  • Perennials are plants that grow back each year.
  • Dividing or splitting a single perennial into multiple plants helps the plant perform better.
  • After they are divided, there is more space for roots to grow and absorb nutrients and water.
  • It can help manage the size of the plant.
  • You will have more plants of the same kind to add to your garden when you split a perennial.
  • Spring is the ideal time to divide

Why divide?

Fast growing plants often need to be divided in Spring to rejuvenate overgrown foliage and to stimulate new growth. Overgrown plants can be easy targets for disease.

The plants that spread rapidly can be controlled through regular divisions.  Also, this is a great way to get new plants for your garden without spending a dime!

Signs plants need to be divided

Unsightly plants that need to be divided become overgrown with dead, unappealing centers.  Their vigorous growth has sent them to places in your garden where they are not welcome!  They also have fewer flowers and are in overall poor health due to the plant depleting the fertility of the soil as it crowds itself.  Let the plant be the gauge, not a calendar

When to divide

• In general, most perennials need to be divided every 3 to 5 years.

• Spring is a great time for dividing. This is when you can do the least amount of irreparable damage. The plants are coming out of dormancy and are ready to grow.  However, some argue that specific plants respond to dividing better later in the growing season.

• The recommended time for Oriental Poppy, Peony and Siberian Iris is late July to early August, but spring is acceptable if that is the only time you can divide.

• Early spring bloomers: Divide after bloom and they have all season to anchor new roots and set buds for next spring.

• Summer-fall bloomers: Divide in spring and they too will set roots, bud and flower.

 

Source:  extension.illinois.edu©

 

Related:

When to Divide these Perennial’s

Tips for writing a Song Like a Pro

 

I’m a guitar player who played music in a band many years ago.  We were a garage band meaning we didn’t write our own songs, but were fantastic at playing the best songs of the 60’s and early 70’s recorded by other artists and musicians.  I never tried to write a song myself, but now I’m tempted to give it a shot.  Poets and other creative types have a leg up in that writing probably comes easier to them.

Here is an article than describes the process of songwriting.  You may find that it mimics your poetry writing.  The challenge is to remember that the goal is to hear it rather than see it.  Can you put your poem to music?  Try it.  It may prove to open a new creative way to express yourself.

1.  Destination Writing

Begin by free-writing in paragraph form.  Describe a scene, or a person, or a moment; focus on using adjectives and similes tied to the five senses, and verbs that are forceful and direct.

2.  Separate External and Internal Details, and look for rhyming pairs among them

External details are those that focus on the setting, while internal details focus on the ‘who’ in the story and identify feelings.  A proper balance of external and internal details helps create an experience for the listener without sacrificing authenticity or pacing.  Lay out key phrases from the free-writing exercise on a table, with external details on one side and internal details on another, then connect the ones that rhyme.

3.  Choose a rhyme scheme, toggle pattern, and plot progression.

Some rhyme schemes include ABAB, AABCCB, or XAXA (where matching letters indicate rhyming lines and X indicates lines that don’t rhyme at all).  Pattison uses the term “toggle pattern” to describe the movement between the internal and external details identified in the previous step.  Every song should tell a story, so plan how to structure your story across verse, chorus, or bridge.

4.  Put some meat on the bones.

Fill the rhyming phrases from step two into your structure from step 3, adding conjunctions and prepositions so they tell the story cohesively in that order.  Pattison calls this “toggling” the verse and pre-chorus.  He adds that “your first few lines should establish the ‘who,’ ‘when,’ and ‘where’” of the song.

5. Write your chorus.

Destination write about the same thing again, but with an inward focus.  This time you’re looking at the thoughts and feelings of your main character.  Just as you did in step 1, write in paragraph form without restriction or hesitation.

6.  Find rhyming pairs of phrases in this material for your chorus.

Just as in step two, put the phrases you’ve written in a table and connect the ones that rhyme.  Try to find the heart of the story, the point or the moral you’re trying to convey.  This is also where you might find material for the title of your song.  Note that the title is not the first thing you’ll write; it only shows up after you’ve spent some time with your subject matter.

7. Construct the second verse and pre-chorus.

At this point you can focus more on internal details and broaden the scope of your focus relative to your first verse.  Verses and even lines of a verse progress from a narrow to a broad focus – “zoomed in and zoomed out” – in a process that Pattison calls “pyramiding.”   While your first few lines must establish the ‘who,’ ‘where,’ and ‘when’ to draw your audience into the story, you now have the freedom to explore your concept more and add connections.  It’s a principle that should be familiar to anyone who has written blogs, speeches, or hard news.

8. Construct the bridge.

A bridge should break from the rest of the song not just in melody and tone, but in structure and thought as well.  Pattison recommends a contrasting toggling pattern between external and internal details.  You should also consider how this section will elaborate, add to, or even contradict the themes of the song.

By now, your song has taken shape.  You might be pretty proud of it, but don’t let it go just yet.

9.  Review your verbs, tenses, and points of view

Is the song entirely in first, second, or third person?  Each are valid choices, but they must be consistent throughout.  Is the song happening in the past like a memory or a story, the present like an experience, or the future like a promise or a hope?  Most importantly, circle all of your verbs; ask yourself whether there are stronger or more precise verbs you could use in their place.  This should also be familiar advice to writers: Keep a thesaurus handy and never submit your first draft.

10.  Check for conversational quality

Remember that your audience isn’t reading this, they’re hearing it.  Can you follow the action without looking back?  Do your thoughts flow smoothly through the use of conjunctions and prepositions?  Are the characters, setting, and action clear from the beginning?  Make changes where necessary.

By now you might have a pretty rumpled piece of paper and a worn-out pencil, but you might also have a song.  Congratulations!  More importantly, you have a concrete method for how to write a song you can return to again and again.  Like every skill, songwriting gets easier with practice.

 

Source:  scintilla.studio

Which plastic containers are safe for food storage

Did you know that certain plastics don’t like heat or long-term use.  For food storage and microwaving, no plastic is literally ‘zero-migration,’ but a few are consistently considered low-risk when properly formulated and used as intended.

Common plastics like polyethylene, polypropylene, PET, polystyrene, and more are FDA-approved for food storage use because of decades of testing.

However, certain plastics contain more “extractables” — microplastics, forever chemicals, phthalates, BPA, and BPS — than others.

A polymer chemist reported polypropylene, or #5 PP, as the least toxic plastic on the lists, thanks to its “low migration under FDA test conditions. It’s the best available plastic for hot food and reheating.

Best Toxicologist-Approved Plastic Food Storage Containers

  • Reliable Deli Cups: Freshware Food Storage Deli Containers With Lids, $23
  • Chef-Approved Tubs: Cambro 2-Pack Food Storage Containers with Lids, $22
  • Airtight Pantry Storage: ComSaf Dry Storage Containers, Set of 3, $16, originally $20
  • Versatile Storage Set: Tupperware Heritage Collection 36-Piece Food Storage Container Set, $100
  • Shopper-Loved: Rubbermaid Brilliance Pantry Food Storage Containers, Set of 4, $33, originally $40

 

Source:   Food & Wine©

Photo credit:  © fcafotodigital / Getty Images

Related: Hidden two-letter code reveals if your plastic containers are toxic – TUTORING YOU

Why Every Garden Needs a Butterfly Puddler—And How to Make Yours

You might catch a butterfly or two in your garden on occasion but if you want to see butterflies more often, then one way to attract them is by having a butterfly puddler. It’s possible you may have never even heard of a butterfly puddler before and that’s because many people don’t really think about having one. It’s usually something you see more at a butterfly garden than a household but that doesn’t mean you can’t have one.

Ahead, we spoke with a butterfly entomologist about all things butterfly puddlers from what they are to how to make one at home.

According to Skye Bruce, PhD, butterfly entomologist and coordinator at Wisconsin Monarch Collaborative, a butterfly puddler is a shallow container or area filled with moist soil, sand, or gravel that offers essential nutrients like sodium and other minerals to butterflies. “Puddling” is a natural butterfly practice where groups of butterflies, usually males, gather around a puddle to drink.

“Puddlers supplement butterflies’ diets with nutrients they can’t get from nectar alone, especially sodium,” Dr. Bruce says. “Sodium and other micronutrients gathered during puddling are stored in the butterfly’s body and, in males, transferred to females during mating in what’s known as a nuptial gift, which may enhance reproductive success. These nutrients are particularly important for reproductive success and overall fitness.”

Although all butterflies can use a butterfly puddler, those belonging to the swallowtail family are more commonly attracted to them. This can include tiger swallowtails, white admirals and cabbage whites to name a few.

How to make a butterfly puddling

Looking to make a butterfly puddling for your garden? It’s pretty simple and only involves a few steps.

First, use a shallow dish or container, fill it with a mix of sand, soil, and compost, and keep it damp.

Next, Dr. Bruce recommends adding a pinch of salt or wood ash to enhance mineral content. “Flat stones or sticks can give butterflies or bees a dry perch while they drink [since they can’t land on water],” she says.

Lastly, place the butterfly puddler in a sunny, protected area if you can.

Do butterfly puddlers really work?

Yes, butterfly puddlers really work. It may take some time for butterflies to visit, but give it a few days and you’ll likely notice more butterflies than usual outside in your garden.

“Puddling areas serve as gathering points that can increase butterfly visibility and interaction in gardens,” says Dr. Bruce. It usually takes just one butterfly to signal to others to join.

Should a butterfly puddler be in the sun or shade?

In terms of location, Dr. Bruce says that the location of the butterfly puddler isn’t a make-or-break factor.

“On a cooler day or on a cool morning or evening, I would definitely say put it in the sun, because it helps butterflies warm up since they are cold blooded,” she says. “However, they love a dappled shade puddling spot too, especially on hotter days so placing it in the shade on hotter days will also help keep it from drying out as quickly as possible.”

You may also decide to put the butterfly puddler next to butterfly-attracting plants and nectar-rich flowers so they can feed on them.

At the end of the day, while puddling is fascinating and fun to observe, Dr. Bruce says the most meaningful action gardeners can take is planting native host plants.

“For example, monarch caterpillars only eat milkweed (Asclepias spp.), and other species have their own specific plant needs, and they will disappear without their host plants,” she says. “Habitat loss, not lack of puddlers, is the main threat to pollinators so prioritize plants first.”

Source:  Dengarden©

Hair Regrowth After Chemotherapy

 

People undergoing chemotherapy will notice different levels of hair regrowth. The speed of regrowth and thickness of your new hair will depend on various factors, including the individual, the drug (or combination of drugs) used, the dosage given, type of cancer, nutritional state, and pre-existing hair loss.

This article discusses how chemotherapy impacts hair loss and regrowth. It includes information about how long it may take for your hair to grow back, how it may look and feel when it does, and how to care for your regrown hair.

Surgery and radiation therapy remove, kill, or damage cancer cells in a specific area of the body. Chemo is different because it works throughout the body. This means that chemo can kill cancer cells that have spread (metastasized) to nearby areas or to areas farther away from the original (primary) tumor. However, chemo also affects normal fast-growing cells throughout the body.

One of the most frustrating side effects of chemotherapy is hair loss. Because cancer cells and hair follicle cells are both types of fast-growing cells that divide quickly, chemotherapy will kill both types.

The extent of hair loss can vary among individuals and depends on drug type and dosage. Some people may experience mere thinning of the hair, while others may lose all of their hair.

Hair loss tends to begin after a few chemotherapy treatments. The hair may fall out gradually, or it may fall out in clumps. Some patients shave their heads—opting to wear wigs, scarves, or hats—so they do not have to experience their hair falling out gradually over a period of time. Any remaining hair might look dull or feel dry during chemotherapy.

Some patients lose more than just the hair on their heads—some lose hair all over their bodies. They lose eyebrows, eyelashes, pubic hair, and even arm and leg hair. Each person reacts differently to chemo, so it is impossible to predict who will lose hair or how much hair.

Hair Regrowth After Chemotherapy

Your hair may start to grow back while you are still undergoing chemotherapy, or you may not have hair grow back until after the treatment has ended.

While each person has a unique experience with hair loss and regrowth, looking at general timelines may help prepare you for what to expect.

After treatment ends, you may see the following regrowth pattern:

  • Several weeks: Soft fuzz forms.
  • One to two months: Real hair starts to grow.
  • Two to three months: Hair is about 1 inch long.
  • Three to six months: Hair grows about 2–3 inches long.
  • Twelve months: Hair is about 4–6 inches long.

As a reference, healthy hair normally grows about 1 centimeter or half an inch per month.

When hair does grow back in, it may be a different texture or color than the hair you lost. For example, if you had straight hair, it may be curly when it comes back in.

Some people also find that their hair grows back gray at first, and then a few months later, it returns to its natural color as the pigment-producing melanocyte cells may take longer to repopulate the hair follicle.

Caring for Hair Regrowth

As your hair grows, use a gentle shampoo and conditioner. New hair growth is fragile, and your scalp may still be very sensitive. Talk to your oncologist or your dermatologist for more personalized advice on the topic.

For the first six months after therapy, you may want to hold off on undergoing chemical processes like perming and dyeing. Using a hair dryer, a curling iron, or a straightening iron may also damage the fragile new hair.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • How much does hair grow in after chemo?

    Hair regrowth after chemo is different for each person. However, many people see hair start to return a month or two after treatment and have several inches back after their first year.

  • What vitamins help hair growth after chemo?

    Hair loss from chemo is different from other kinds of hair thinning or loss. There are no reputable studies that show vitamins or supplements are helpful in preventing hair loss or making it grow back faster.

    However, topical minoxidil may be recommended to help hair regrow after chemotherapy.

    Source:  verywellhealth.com©

If you see ice crystals on frozen food, this is what it really means

I asked experts how to tell when food is safe to eat—and when it’s time to toss it.

The freezer is my go-to partner for meal prep solution. I love that I can cook something, let it cool, and then store it in the freezer to be used days, weeks, or even months later.

While most of the time freezing seems foolproof, there are instances when I reach into the freezer for something and find it covered in ice crystals. Does that mean my frozen food is going to taste off? Even worse, do the ice crystals mean my food is no longer safe to eat?

What Are Ice Crystals—and Why Are They on My Food?

Freezing is a trusted technique for food preservation, but it isn’t flawless. Variables, like the water content of food, the method used to freeze food, and the temperature of the freezer, can interfere with success. The most irritating issue: ice crystals, aka freezer burn.

Registered dietician Christy Wilson, who focuses on cooking for the family, explains that when food is frozen, the water inside it turns into ice. If the freezing happens quickly, small ice crystals form, which have minimal effect on the quality of the food. However, if food is frozen slowly, then larger, rougher, more detectable ice crystals form.

Shifts in temperature can cause ice crystals to form, too. Temperature change can come from opening and closing the freezer door. But it also happens when a freezer does not hold a steady temperature. Slight changes in temperature will cause moisture to shift from inside the cell structure to the surface of foods.  This can result in a buildup of ice crystals over time. Similarly, frost can form on foods and packaging in the freezer when moisture in the air freezes and forms ice crystals.

Are Ice Crystals Safe to Eat?

The presence of ice crystals is an indicator of compromised quality and texture of the food, not safety. So, rest assured, you can safely eat food covered in ice crystals, but there may be some changes to taste and texture.

Even the best packaged frozen foods have some degree of ice crystallization. When ice crystals form in frozen foods that are meant to be cooked before eating, the tiny amount of surface ice rarely has a noticeable effect on quality after cooking. That’s because the heat melts the ice and restores much of the food’s original texture. (Especially when you follow the on-package cooking instructions for thawing and preparing.)

However, “for foods that are eaten while still frozen, such as ice cream, even a small amount of ice crystal formation can noticeably degrade texture,” she adds. Wilson explains that from a scientific standpoint, moisture migrates out of the food matrix, forming larger ice crystals and leaving behind a less stable structure. Unlike cooked foods, there is no reheating step to reintegrate the melted ice, compromising the texture.

Bottom line, the ice crystals present on frozen food are safe to consume, but their presence can indicate that the texture and quality are compromised. If you don’t mind your peas on the softer side, go ahead and reheat and enjoy.

Tips for Preventing Ice Crystals

  • Don’t overcrowd the freezer. If your freezer is packed, consider purging items to create more space. This creates room for air to flow around your food, keeping the temperature consistent, which helps keep food frozen.
  • Hold temp at 0°F. Temperature changes can cause food to thaw and re-freeze, creating ice crystals. To help, set the temperature in your freezer to 0°F. If your freezer doesn’t have a thermometer, consider buying one so that you can be sure it’s sufficiently cold.
  • Prepare food for freezing. If you’re freezing your own food, be sure to cool it completely and remove excess moisture before storing it. Smaller containers will freeze faster, so choose a size that fits your food appropriately. If freezing liquids, allow a little extra space for expansion.
  • Know freezer limits. Freezer times vary depending on the food. Use this handy guide from FoodSafety.gov to make sure you eat food when it’s at its best.

Source:  simplyrecipes.com©

Taurus Zodiac Sign: April 20 to May 20

Intrigued by the grounded and sensual nature of the Taurus? Represented by the Bull, Taureans are the anchors of the Zodiac. Dive into the world of Taurus personalities, from their love of comfort and beauty to their unwavering loyalty and practicality. Are you a Taurus, or do you know a Taurus?  Learn more about the Taurus Zodiac sign, including personality traits. likes and dislikes.

The Taurus Zodiac Sign at a Glance
Element Earth
Dates April 21-May 20
Compatibility Most compatible with Virgo and Capricorn
Personality Traits Grounded, Sensual, Practical, Loyal, Persistent
Symbol Bull ♉

Taurus Signs

The Earth sign of Taurus is symbolized by the steadfast Bull and is ruled by the planet Venus.  That planet is the embodiment of love and beauty. But like the earth itself, Taureans are grounded and practical individuals who value stability and comfort. They are known for their sensuality, enjoying the finer things in life, like delicious food, luxurious textures, and artistic beauty.

Taurus Zodiac Sign Traits

Smart, ambitious, and trustworthy, Taurus has amazing friends, colleagues, and partners.  Taureans value honesty above all else and are unabashedly proud that their personal relationships tend to be drama free. Bulls get the reputation of being stubborn, but they’re not always stuck in their ways. This searching sign is willing to see another point of view.  However, this sign won’t flip-flop on an opinion just to make someone else happy. They shift their thinking only if they truly have a change of heart.

Taurus the Lover

Taurus is one of the hardest-working signs in the Zodiac. A Bull is never afraid to roll up those sleeves and get to work.  It won’t blink an eye at pulling an all-nighter to get the job done. But it’s not all work for a Taurus sign. This passionate sign is all about sensuality and is always seeking out pleasure. They love indulging in luxurious massages or spending hours in bed with their lover.  Also, not afraid of going on a long run, Taureans love to feel present in their body.  Predictably, they require a frequent need to get in touch with their physical self.

Taurus-Some negatives

While Taurus signs have an intense internal drive, they sometimes have trouble respecting authority.  Don’t ask them to do something they think is pointless or should be done differently. Learning to be flexible and going with the flow can be a learned advantage to Taurus. And though valuing external attributes, may overlook someone who doesn’t have the perfect outfit, car, or resume. Getting to know someone before writing them off can be a valuable lesson to a Taurean. Another negative is their hastiness concerning love, where they might be too quick to write off a perfect match.

Strengths

  • Steadfast and reliable; strong sense of commitment
  • Practical, resourceful, and productive
  • Deep appreciation for beauty, art, and nature
  • Loyal and generous with loved ones

Challenges

  • Can be resistant to change and overly set in routines
  • Prone to stubbornness or possessiveness
  • May become overly materialistic or focused on comfort
  • Slow to forgive slights or to shift perspective

Likes

  • Comfort, luxury, and beautiful surroundings
  • Good food, fine wine, and sensory pleasures
  • Stability, security, and routine
  • Nature, gardening, and earthy activities
  • Collecting or creating well-crafted objects

Dislikes

  • Sudden changes or disruptions
  • Impulsive or unpredictable behavior
  • Being rushed or pressured
  • Wastefulness or carelessness with resources
  • Feeling insecure or undervalued

Graphic:  oldfarmersalmanac©

Turn your birdbath into a bird & butterfly magnet by planting this flower near it

 

On a hot day, you’re likely to visit a pool or the beach to cool off. It’s the same for birds.   They’re looking for a place to chill, get a cool drink, and rest when the temperatures climb. A birdbath gives them just that, but first, they need to find it. If you want birds to flock to your birdbath, you need to plant the right flowers around it.

Planting salvia (Salvia spp.) is the secret to attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and other birds to your birdbath. Salvia is available in dozens of varieties.  Its blooms can range from deep purple to scarlet red to brilliant blue, colors that encourage more hummingbirds to visit your garden. The flowers of salvia aren’t just bright and eye-catching; they are also long-lasting and nectar rich.  This makes Salvia a gold mine for pollinators including birds and butterflies. Depending on the variety you choose, salvia can bloom throughout the spring or from the summer into the fall.   They offer food and shelter to pollinators for months on end. They’ll come for the food and stay for the pool!

Need some more convincing? While salvia will attract pollinators to your garden, it’s generally deer-resistant and doesn’t have serious problems with pests. Plus, depending on the variety you plant, you may be able to use its leaves in cooking. Sage (Salvia officinalis) and rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) are both members of the salvia family. Whatever variety you plant, expect the leaves to have a pleasant aroma, making your garden appealing not just for the birds and butterflies, but for you, too.

There are two ways to grow salvia, from seed or from transplants. You can start the plant from seed indoors or wait until the last frost has passed and plant directly in the soil outdoors. If starting with a seedling, plant it outdoors after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

To thrive in your garden, salvia needs two things: plenty of sun and good soil. The plants do best directly in the garden bed, rather than in containers. To improve your soil and make it more appealing to salvia, add sand or compost, which will also improve drainage. You’ll need to deadhead salvia, or remove spent blooms, as the season goes on to encourage the plant to keep flowering. Deadheading salvia keeps the flowers from going to seed.

To make your garden even more of a butterfly and bird magnet, create a welcoming environment for them, with pollinator-friendly flowers and habitat features. Calendula (Calendula officinalis), for example, attracts a variety of birds and pollinators to your yard. A patch of soil provides a place for ground-nesting birds to burrow while bee boxes provide a cozy home for pollinating bees.

Source:   Hunker.com©

Photo credit:  © Wirestock/Getty Images;

Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

Related:  What Soil Is Best for Salvias?  – TUTORING YOU

Turn your birdbath into a bird & butterfly magnet by planting this flower near it

 

On a hot day, you’re likely to visit a pool or the beach to cool off. It’s the same for birds.   They’re looking for a place to chill, get a cool drink, and rest when the temperatures climb. A birdbath gives them just that, but first, they need to find it. If you want birds to flock to your birdbath, you need to plant the right flowers around it.

Planting salvia (Salvia spp.) is the secret to attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and other birds to your birdbath. Salvia is available in dozens of varieties.  Its blooms can range from deep purple to scarlet red to brilliant blue, colors that encourage more hummingbirds to visit your garden. The flowers of salvia aren’t just bright and eye-catching; they are also long-lasting and nectar rich.  This makes Salvia a gold mine for pollinators including birds and butterflies. Depending on the variety you choose, salvia can bloom throughout the spring or from the summer into the fall.   They offer food and shelter to pollinators for months on end. They’ll come for the food and stay for the pool!

Need some more convincing? While salvia will attract pollinators to your garden, it’s generally deer-resistant and doesn’t have serious problems with pests. Plus, depending on the variety you plant, you may be able to use its leaves in cooking. Sage (Salvia officinalis) and rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) are both members of the salvia family. Whatever variety you plant, expect the leaves to have a pleasant aroma, making your garden appealing not just for the birds and butterflies, but for you, too.

There are two ways to grow salvia, from seed or from transplants. You can start the plant from seed indoors or wait until the last frost has passed and plant directly in the soil outdoors. If starting with a seedling, plant it outdoors after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

To thrive in your garden, salvia needs two things: plenty of sun and good soil. The plants do best directly in the garden bed, rather than in containers. To improve your soil and make it more appealing to salvia, add sand or compost, which will also improve drainage. You’ll need to deadhead salvia, or remove spent blooms, as the season goes on to encourage the plant to keep flowering. Deadheading salvia keeps the flowers from going to seed.

To make your garden even more of a butterfly and bird magnet, create a welcoming environment for them, with pollinator-friendly flowers and habitat features. Calendula (Calendula officinalis), for example, attracts a variety of birds and pollinators to your yard. A patch of soil provides a place for ground-nesting birds to burrow while bee boxes provide a cozy home for pollinating bees.

Source:   Hunker.com©

Photo credit:  © Wirestock/Getty Images;

Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

Related:  What Soil Is Best for Salvias?  – TUTORING YOU