Tag: Gardening & Landscaping

4 Great Alternatives for Beloved Plants that Don’t Fit

 

How on earth did that small arborvitae I planted in front of the house get so huge?  It happens all the time to beloved plants that now don’t fit in your landscape.

Either a previous owner, or maybe it was you, planted something that was tiny when it was new, but over the years it has slowly turned into a hulking monster.

It is really hard to imagine the size that a shrub or tree will eventually achieve even a few years, let alone when it is fully mature.  Plant companies and breeders know that this a common problem so the influx of dwarf (or latin ‘nana’) varieties are very common.  But if there is no dwarf, you may find you need to seek out other options.  Here are some smaller options for four of the most loved, but often overgrown garden plants.

Arborvitae

Arborvitae commonly found in nurseries top out at anywhere from 20 to 60 feet tall —not exactly what you want in front of your living room window. Look out for Thuja occcidentalis ‘De Groot’s Spire’ (pictured above in the background) on the other hand, is a slim, tall-ish column that slowly grows to just 15 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

Thuja occcidentalis ‘De Groot’s Spire’ is a cultivar of the native Eastern arborvitae that works beautifully as a foundation bed accent or a repeating vertical theme in a large mixed border. It prefers full sun to part sun and will be much less dense if grown in shade. USDA Zones 3-8.

For Arborvitae/Evergreen Screening: Juniperus virginiana (Eastern Red Cedar) or Juniperus scopulorum ‘Wichita Blue’ are praised for their toughness, drought resistance, and beautiful blue boughs.

Lilacs

Need a ladder to smell your lilacs?
The common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, matures at 12 to 20 feet tall and spreads 8 to 15 feet across. A good alternative is S. meyeri ‘Palibin’, a compact 4–5-foot cultivar of Korean lilac. Or Also, The Bloomerang lilacs (S. x ‘Bloomerang’, ‘Bloomerang Purple’) were developed using S. meyerii as a parent and are a great, short 3–4-foot alternative.

 

Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ has pale pink, fragrant flowers that bloom profusely in late spring. As a bonus, its foliage is quite resistant to powdery mildew. Full sun, USDA Zones 4-7.

 

 

Bloomerang lilacs (Syringa x ‘Bloomerang’, ‘Bloomerang Purple‘) are a great 3-to-4-foot alternative to the larger and more mildew-prone common lilac, S. vulgaris. Another plus is their sporadic re-bloom throughout the summer and into fall. Full sun, USDA Zones 4-7.

Birch Trees

Why did you think that river birch would work as a foundation plant?
River birch is a beautiful native tree with gorgeous form and bark, accompanied by a great constitution, but it is also fast-growing to and can quickly reach 30 to 40 feet.

It’s baby cousin, however, Betula nigra ‘Little King’, is just as nice but it tops out at no more than 12 feet.

 

 

 

Betula nigra ‘Little King’ is a dense, compact, multi-stemmed shrub with an irregular crown, typically growing close to 10 feet tall and wide. It fits nicely in a foundation garden or as a centerpiece of a mixed border. Full Sun to Part Shade, USDA Zones 4-9.

Butterfly Bush

Love butterflies, but can’t get over the big ugly butterfly bush mess that happens every winter?

Late summer blooms and butterflies, especially in a small garden, can be had with dwarf Buddleia x ‘Lo and Behold’ series – none gets more than 3 feet tall.

Buddleia x 'Lo and Behold'

The ‘Lo and Behold’ series offers lots of color choices: blue, lilac, pink and deep purple. Any one (or a combination) would make a fantastic mass planting in a hot, dry, sunny spot, and you can sit back and watch the butterflies at play. Full sun, Zones 5-9.

Another choice, For Butterfly Bush (Buddleia): Diervilla ‘Kodiak Orange’ is recommended for its toughness, pollinator appeal, and spectacular fall foliage, making it a better, non-invasive choice.

Article by Rochelle Greayer:    pithandvigor.com©

Top 5 Best Ways to Stop Deer From Eating Your Plants

The deer population has skyrocketed, and deer have your yards in their sights all year long looking for anything they can eat. They use your garden as a buffet and can completely decimate and wreak havoc in a garden. There are all different kinds of things that you can do to dissuade and deter these graceful garden munchers away from your prized plants. These are the top 5 ways that we’ve found to stop deer from eating plants.

Choose Deer Resistant Garden Plants

One of the best ways to keep your garden from being eaten by deer is to fill it with deer-resistant plants so that they will avoid your yard altogether. Some of the best perennial plants that discourage hungry deer are Boxwood, Russian sage, ornamental grasses, black-eyed susan, bellflower, catmint, ferns, iris, lamb’s ear, lupine, and salvia.

Unfortunately, vegetables are not on that list, and vegetable gardens are pretty much a salad bar for deer to graze on. So, you’ll have to outsmart the hungry specimens with some of the methods below.

Hosta with deer damage.

Put up a Deer Fence Around your Garden or Yard

The most effective technique for deterring deer is to install a fence around the garden or yard. The trick is that any old fence will not do, as deer are known for their ability to jump rather high. The ideal barrier to keep deer out should be approximately 7-8 feet in height. For garden access to the garden, installing a gate is also important, but don’t forget to keep the entrances to your garden closed.

Scare Deer Away


Scare deer away from your garden in a variety of different ways. If you have a dog in the yard, allow the faithful companion to roam around the garden with you. Dogs will spread their scent around the garden, which will act as a natural deterrent for grazing deer. If dogs are outside, their bark alone will be enough to startle them so that they will move on.

Consider getting a motion-activated device like a floodlight that will engage when deer come close to your garden. Wooden wind chimes or hanging tin pie plates throughout the garden bed will also work to disrupt the path of deer with startling noises.

Scatter Human Hair Clippings around the Edges of the Garden


Have you had a recent haircut? Save the clippings and spread them around the border of your garden bed. Deer will smell the hair and equate it with the smell of humans, and they will stay away from the area where they perceive that humans are present.

Deter Deer with Odors


Deer have a very keen sense of smell, so use that as an opportunity to use it to your advantage. One effective way of keeping deer away from your garden is through the use of heavily scented products. The most popular deterrents are bars of deodorant soap. Simply take several bars of soap, punch a hole in each one, and use twine to hang the bars of soap from the trees and fencing around your garden. Deer will smell the soap and steer clear of your crops.

There are many other deer deterrents that also rely on odor, and their overall effectiveness can depend on how long it takes the grazers to get used to the new scents. It is not out of the ordinary for these techniques to only be temporarily effective deterrents, so you will have to be vigilant and switch things up every few days to outsmart them. Some of these deterrents include spreading things like bloodmeal, decaying fish heads, and garlic around your garden plants.

There are also some varieties of organic deer repellent that you can purchase from your local nursery. Be sure that you are using only a natural variation and make sure that it is safe to use around edible plantings. These repellents also rely on odors to repel deer from eating plants.

Use a Variety of Methods


Overall, hungry deer are adaptable, resourceful, and relentless, so there is no guarantee that they will avoid your garden entirely with any one method alone. Combine methods and change things up from time to time to catch deer off guard and to most effectively preventing them from decimating your garden. Choose plants that deer don’t favor, put up a fence, use scare tactics, odors, and other deterrents to give yourself the best chance at keeping their grazing on your plants at bay.

Source: kellogggarden.com©

Photo Credit: yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu©

Gardening mistakes that instantly make your yard look messy

Don’t let your garden mistakes make a bad impression!

 

 

First impressions start before guests even walk through the front door, which means having your landscape shipshape is of the utmost importance. Even if you’re following the lazy lawn trend for a more natural and less manicured yard approach, there are still a few gardening tips to keep it from becoming messy. Here are landscape design and garden experts to share tips on how to avoid messy-looking outdoor spaces. These are their gardening mistakes to avoid, plus a few suggestions to follow for a stunning landscape.

Gardening mistakes to avoid

 

Crowded Beds 

Plan for the size your plants will be once they’re fully grown, not just their scale at the time of planting. Think about how plants will grow in. Overcrowding [when planting] can lead to ‘re-doing’ [the area] down the road. Nothing screams messy more than an overcrowded planting bed.

It’s a good rule of thumb to allow room for everything to flourish. “Give plantings room to breathe and use negative space as a design device to capture and hold one’s attention,” adds gardening expert Linda Vater. 

Undefined Edges 

Wonky paths and unlined beds can quickly cause your landscape to appear unkempt or make it look like an afterthought. Keep crisp and clean bed lines. Strong curves and straight lines are key, while unintentional ‘wavy’ bed-lines can look haphazard. 

Untrimmed Greenery

Not only is it important to deadhead bloomers, it’s also vital to cut back perennials at the right time. “Get your trees beautifully pruned and even consider incorporating some clipped evergreens and architectural plants into the landscape,” says Vater.

Tired Containers 

Whether on your front porch or scattered throughout the yard, happy containers make for a more inviting atmosphere. Make sure garden containers do not look tired. Update container plantings with seasonal arrangements. As spring turns into summer, it might be time to replace those pansies with hardier lantanas. 

Oversize Plantings 

Always consider the scale of what you’re planting in proportion to your home and its location. Don’t use ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas when ‘Little Lime’ hydrangeas are more size-appropriate. In good conditions, ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas can grow to 8 feet tall, which is too overpowering for a low foundation planting.

Loose Gravel

Creating a foundational layer under loose gravel will help it stay in place, while still allowing for a less rigid look than poured concrete or structurally laid stones. If you are wanting a pea gravel terrace, walkway, or driveway, make sure you have a compacted subgrade [of soil or other materials], otherwise the surface will feel like you are walking on the beach. 

Only Planting Blooming Species

It’s important to establish an evergreen base for your landscape to avoid dead periods when your plants aren’t flowering. Not everything necessarily needs to bloom. Think through adding varying shades of green and different textures.

Unkempt Beds 

There’s a difference between messy landscaping and embracing a natural landscape. You can maintain a more laid-back feel with a lazy lawn while still keeping it neat. “Even if you’re growing nothing but native [plants] and wildflowers, keep edges tidy, paths cleared and easily navigable, and garden spaces well groomed,” advises Vater. 

Planting Too Small

“Too many small planters can look pretty, but aren’t nearly dramatic enough,” says Vater. “They need constant watering and often blow over, contributing to a cluttered appearance for the garden overall.” Instead, the gardener suggests thinking a little bigger. “Go large in your potted gardens.”

Too Much Variety 

While it’s important to add layers to your landscape, not everything needs to be different. Consider designating certain spaces to specific plants. “Masses of one color and a single type of plant can be far more effective and attractive than a hodgepodge of many different colors and varieties,” notes Vater. “Too many varieties of almost anything makes it difficult for the eye to know where to rest and makes the overall appearance messy and cluttered looking.”

 

 

Source: ©Southern Living

Need tips on evergreens for your garden?  Here you go:

Evergreen Shrubs in the Landscape – TUTORING YOU

This Fall, How to Safely Remove Poison Ivy from Your Garden

Nothing ruins a day outdoors like a run-in with poison ivy. “Poison ivy is a member of the Toxicodendron genus of plants in the Anacardaceae family that includes poison oak and poison sumac,” explains gardening expert Melinda Myers. “All parts of poison ivy contain an oil resin called urushiol that causes skin rashes.”

Found throughout most of the United States, it’s not uncommon for poison ivy plants to pop up in residential backyards and gardens—especially if you live in a rural area. “Poison ivy prefers moist woodland environments, but can be found in gardens and landscapes, creeping in from surrounding woods, along fence rows, pastures, and disturbed sites where birds and deer visit and deposit the seeds,” Myers explains. Fortunately, if you do happen to find a patch of poison ivy in your garden, she says there are ways to safely remove it without getting a rash.

Learn how to identify poison ivy in your garden.

Myers says if you know what to look for, you can spot (and remove) poison ivy in your garden while the plants are still small and manageable. “Poison ivy has leaves in clusters of three, called a compound leaf,” she explains. “These clusters alternate along the stem—they are not opposite each other. The leaves can be shiny especially when they emerge in spring and the edges of the leaves may be wavy, have teeth, or be smooth. The leaves usually turn red in fall but can be yellow. The flowers appear in spring and berries ripen to a grayish-white in late summer and persist into winter.”

Just so there’s no mistake. Here is what poison ivy looks like:

Poison ivy leaves are easy to miss among those of other plants. This poison ivy vine, with groups of three leaflets, is climbing a tree trunk along with Virginia creeper.
Poison ivy leaves are easy to miss among those of other plants. This poison ivy vine, with groups of three leaflets, is climbing a tree trunk along with Virginia creeper. (Morton Arboretum)
Image result for poison ivy
Health image

Don’t underdress for the occasion.

Since all parts of a plant, including the stem, leaves, and roots, contain rash-causing urushiol oil, Myers says it’s crucial to protect your skin when dealing with poison ivy. “Always dress for the job,” she says. “Cover your skin, wear waterproof gloves, and I would even suggest safety glasses when managing poison ivy plants and debris.”

Try a targeted spray.

Once your face, hands, and skin are covered, Myers says you can use a poison ivy-specific chemical spray, such as Ortho Max Poison Ivy and Tough Brush Killer to eliminate a patch of poison ivy plants in your garden. “Be sure to read and follow label directions,” she says. “You will need multiple applications as this plant has an extensive root system and will keep sending up new stems. Keep in mind these chemicals will damage or kill any nearby plants they touch, so spot treat or paint the poison ivy leaves with the chemical to avoid damaging desirable plants.”

Remove it manually.

If you prefer to keep your garden chemical-free, Myers says you can simply keep cutting poison ivy back to remove it. “Continually removing the above ground portion eventually kills the plant, but you must be persistent and thorough,” she explains. Myers also says you can help diminish the growth of poison ivy in your garden by covering it. “Control isolated patches of poison ivy with black plastic. Edge the poison ivy infested area and cover with black plastic for several months or clear plastic for six to eight weeks during the hottest months of the growing season.”

Dispose of poison ivy properly.

After you’ve removed a poison ivy plant from your backyard, Myers says it’s important to dispose of it correctly. “Do not burn or compost poison ivy debris,” she says. “Instead, put all poison ivy debris into large garbage bags and dispose of it in the trash. Rake the area to capture any stems you may have missed. Mulching the area with a four- to six-inch layer of clean woodchips can help isolate any urushiol-containing plant debris you may have missed, reducing the risk of future exposure.”

Article by Caroline Biggs for Martha Stewart

Go figure, figs are a great addition to home gardens

Sometimes growers just want to try something new in their garden. How about an ancient fruit with edible leaves? How about figs? 

For many years, growing figs was relegated to warmer regions, but with the combination of the warming climate and the development of cold-hardy fig varieties, Illinois growers can add this delicious, interesting fruit to home gardens.

Figs are a delightful option for home gardeners, combining sweet, rich flavor and ease of care. Once established, fig trees require minimal maintenance, are drought-tolerant, and can adapt to various soil types. Figs are versatile trees that can flourish in USDA growing zones 5 to 11, depending on their variety and the climate conditions. They also adapt well to container gardening, allowing you to enjoy fresh figs indoors or on your balcony or patio.

Growing Figs

The Chicago Hardy fig (Ficus carica ‘Chicago hardy’) is the most cold-weather tolerant of fig trees and performs well in all areas of Illinois. Not only does the fig produce delicious fruit that can be used in both sweet and savory dishes, but fig trees are also a great specimen planting as an ornamental with their deeply lobed, large leaves and interesting bark. 

Cold-hardy figs can be grown in the ground or in a large container. Even though they are cold-hardy plants, choosing a site that is protected and sheltered from intense winds is best. Figs require six to eight hours of full sun and prefer a rich, loamy soil. Newly planted figs should receive regular watering, but after the first year, figs are very tolerant of mild drought conditions. 

Figs are generally low-maintenance and free from significant pests. Figs can tolerate severe pruning. The Chicago Hardy fig grows 10 to 15 feet tall and 9 to 12 feet wide, but can be pruned and maintained at a height of six feet. Unlike other fig varieties, the Chicago Hardy fig is self-pollinating and does not require an insect pollinator. 

Excitingly, figs produce fruit the very first year. With other fruit trees, the wait is usually several years. Figs should be harvested only when they are fully ripe, as they will not ripen once they are off the tree. Ripe Chicago Hardy figs are a deep purple or brown and yield slightly to the touch. Figs that are soft are overripe. 

An easy, delicious way to use figs is to grill them with a splash of balsamic vinegar. 

Overwintering Figs

To overwinter figs, if they are planted in the ground, apply a thick layer of mulch. If in a container, move the fig to an interior space once the leaves start to fall in autumn. The containerized fig will go dormant to overwinter and does not require a heated area. Water infrequently when the top two to three inches seem dry, just to keep the roots hydrated. 

If the winter is incredibly harsh and the fig branches are winter-killed, the roots usually will send up new branches in spring. Figs are a phenomenal addition to the garden. 

Source: extension.illinois.edu©

Must-Try Annuals & Tender Perennials New for 2026

This year’s lineup is loaded with show-stopping annuals and tender perennials that shine in planters, borders, and anywhere you need a pop of color. Tender perennials often get treated like annuals, but if you live where they’re hardy, you get to enjoy them more than one season.

Besties™ Dynamic Bicolor cape daisy (Osteospermum ecklonis)

These cool-season flowers have a beautiful blend of orange, purple and yellow on each bloom. Though the flowering slows a little in summer’s heat, these plants keep going strong and take off again in fall.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of heat-resistant flowers 
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, 12 to 14 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 9 to 11
Introducer: Danziger 
Source: Local garden centers

‘Pink Ribbons’ coleus (Coleus scutellarioides)

Part of the Terrascape series, ‘Pink Ribbons’ thrives even in full sun, though the color is a bit brighter in part shade. Flowers don’t show up until late in the season, so you probably won’t need to deadhead.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Colorful sun-tolerant foliage with late blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 18 to 26 in. tall, 18 to 20 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Kientzler North America
Source: Local garden centers

Venti™ PinkBurst dahlia (Dahlia pinnata)

You won’t run short of these anemone-shaped flowers in the garden or in your vase. Venti PinkBurst has loads of blooms from late spring to frost. Deadheading keeps plants tidy and encourages more flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of anemone-style blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 16 to 18 in. tall, 14 to 16 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 8 to 10
Introducer: Selecta One®
Source: Local garden centers

Big EEZE Pink Panther geranium (Pelargonium hybrid)

For big flowers and easy-to-grow plants, this new color in the Big EEZE annual geranium series is a sure bet. Those bright pink blooms keep going even when summer is hot and humid. Deadheading helps tidy up plants and make room for new flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Heat- and humidity-tolerant plants with eye-catching pink flowers
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Dümmen Orange®
Source: Local garden centers

Amazonas™ Plum Cockatoo (Petunia hybrid)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Ruffled green petals with a deep purple center
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 14 in. tall, 14 to 18 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Danziger
Source: Local garden centers

Source: gardengatemagazine.com©

5 Places You Should Never Plant Hydrangeas

These beautiful blooms won’t thrive everywhere.

Hydrangeas are versatile shrubs that are beloved for their blue, purple, and pink blooms. However, there are some areas in the garden where hydrangeas may not thrive. In general, these plants prefer partial shade and well-draining soil, so environments with excessive sun or water can cause them to wilt.

Clay Soils

Hydrangeas do best in well-drained soil, so a water-logged area of the garden that retains moisture isn’t ideal.

“[They] don’t like wet feet,” says Jan Johnsen, landscape designer and principal of Johnsen Landscapes & Pools. “Don’t plant hydrangeas in low-lying areas or in heavy, poorly-drained soil.”

Full Sun

Full, all-day sun isn’t ideal for most hydrangeas, says Johnsen—especially if the temperature is high.

“Full sun, especially in warm climates, can burn the flowers and leaves, and can more easily dry out and cause the shrub to shrivel up,” adds Ryan McEnaney, professional gardener and communications manager for Baylie Nurseries.

Some varieties prefer more sun than others, though. Panicle hydrangeas do well in full sun, but hot climates still call for partial shade. Smooth hydrangeas, on the other hand, are native to riverbanks and wooded areas, so they prefer more shade.

Windy Areas

You shouldn’t plant hydrangeas in wide open areas—especially if there’s a lot of wind. This can damage certain varieties, causing them to struggle.

“Smooth hydrangeas don’t typically form thick, woody stems, so heavy wind can cause stems to snap or bend, and the blooms to droop onto the ground,” says McEnaney.

Small Pots

You can grow smaller varieties of hydrangeas in containers—but only if said container is big enough. A smaller pot may be problematic.

“Hydrangeas have roots that grow horizontally, so if you’re planting smaller varieties in deco pots, be sure that they’re at least 15 to 18 inches wide to allow the root system to develop without becoming rootbound,” says McEnaney.

They should also be deep enough to support moisture retention—shallow pots will dry out quickly.

Fertilized Lawns

A green lawn can look beautiful—but you may not want to grow your hydrangeas next to it. Grass fertilizer is high in nitrogen, which will slow down bloom production. However, if you really want to grow hydrangeas in this area, you can still make it work.

[Just] be sure the turf fertilizer doesn’t spray into the garden bed,” says McEnaney. “Fertilize your hydrangeas with a phosphorus-rich bloom booster, or put your hydrangeas in pots to better control the soil and nutrients.”

Source: Original article on Martha Stewart©

Photo Credit: Maryna Andriichenko / Getty Images©

15 creative ways to incorporate rocks in your yard

No matter what kind of environment you are trying to achieve, rocks can transform your outdoor space in ways you might not expect. Let’s discover some innovative ways to rock your landscaping!

Construct a Dry Creek Bed

© Art rich/Getty

For areas prone to water runoff or erosion, a dry creek bed can serve a dual purpose: aesthetic charm and practical drainage. Use a variety of river rocks and pebbles to mimic the pattern of a natural stream bed. Japanese Zen gardens are a popular inspiration, emphasizing simplicity and harmony with nature.

Accentuate with Rock Sculptures

© Francesca Leslie/Getty

Commission or create your own rock sculptures to add artistic expression to your garden. Abstract or figurative sculptures can become conversation pieces that complement the natural surroundings.

Use Rocks as Mulch

© beekeepx/Getty

Replace traditional mulch with river rocks or crushed gravel around trees, shrubs, and flower beds. This low-maintenance option retains soil moisture, suppresses weeds, and, most importantly, adds a polished look to your garden.

Craft a Rock Seating Area

© Robin Gentry/Getty

To create a rock seating area, it’s important to combine comfort with a sense of nature. Pick a flat spot in your yard or garden, lay down a solid base with gravel or sand, and arrange big, sturdy rocks in a circle or semicircle. They’ll double as seats and add a natural, rustic charm. Toss in some outdoor cushions or pillows for extra coziness.

Rock Rain Garden

© Animaflora/Getty

Rocks help slow down and absorb rainwater runoff, preventing erosion and allowing it to infiltrate the ground. You can create a lovely and practical space by strategically placing rocks in a designated area that collects rainwater.

Check out the source listed below for more garden ideas.

Source: Housely©

Spring 2026 Precipitation Outlook

While temperatures are the topic at hand as millions are waiting for shifting seasons, we can briefly talk about precipitation and what the next three months may hold.

It’s more of the same. Wetter across the East and drier across the West. This is good for the East as a surprising amount of the region is actually dealing with drought. So, here’s to hoping this long-range forecast verifies.

Even though the West has seen a brief pivot in the overall dry and mild season in recent weeks, they look to return to more of what they saw for most of winter.

What Is Causing the Shift and How Certain Are We of This Forecast?

As we move into spring, the ongoing La Niña is showing signs of weakening.

For those that need a quick refresher, La Niña occurs when the Pacific Ocean sees below-average temperatures across the central and east-central portions of the equatorial region of the ocean. El Niño is the opposite, with warmer ocean temperatures in those regions. These influence our weather across the entire United States and the entire planet.

With a weakening La Nina expected, this means that a new pattern is arising and conditions will shift. This pattern is the neutral phase of El Niño-Southern Oscillation, which in short means that the Pacific waters are not notably above or below average.

So, what do neutral conditions mean for the U.S.?

Well, they do cause slightly more uncertainty in these forecasts, so make sure you take these long-range forecasts with a grain of salt.

Why is there uncertainty? With more neutral temperatures in the Pacific, you have a smaller difference between temperatures between hemispheres as summer is ending in the Southern Hemisphere and winter is wrapping up in the Northern Hemisphere.

You also have weaker winds at the Equator due to the less extreme differences between hemispheres, and the winds are the main driving factor for El Niño and La Niña.

But the tendency of neutral conditions during spring is for above-average temperatures in the South and Southeast and cooler temperatures from the Central Plains to the Northeast, which March’s and April’s monthly forecasts show especially well.

We also have to talk about the jet stream, which is the main driver of our weather. It begins to weaken around this time of year, which means that our weather patterns are not as easy to predict in the long term.

What we are certain of: A shift toward neutral El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) conditions is coming and will lead to some changes across the country. But a lot of factors contribute to a more uncertain forecast.

Source: The Weather Channel©

Guidelines for Using Gardening Catalogs

With the New Year comes a new crop of gardening catalogs. Inviting descriptions and color photos make it very tempting to order without considering all factors, especially in the middle of winter. Follow some general guidelines to ensure plant materials ordered are the right ones when the growing season arrives.

First, it sounds simple but make sure you know exactly what the plant is. Descriptions can be great to read, but common names may vary. Look for what is called the Latin, scientific or botanical name to be listed, especially with perennials, shrubs, or trees. All three terms refer to the same thing and are considered the universal language, or identity, when classifying plants. This nomenclature includes the genus and specific epithet, or species. If a Latin name is not given, you may not get the plant you think you are ordering.

Most vegetables and annual flowers typically do not need Latin names to be used, but cultivars or varieties become particularly important. For all types of plants, cultivars (developed by crop breeding) or varieties (natural variants) have characteristics making them unique within the species. For example, desirable features such as disease resistance, a certain flower or foliage color, or modifications in size or growth habit of plants are all examples of cultivar and variety-specific characteristics.

With vegetables in particular, disease resistant cultivars, although not immune to disease, are the single most useful tool for preventing serious disease outbreaks. Look for disease resistance first, then choose other features of interest. Cultivars and varieties with a shorter time to harvest are good choices when growing longer season crops like pumpkins, squash, and melons in northern gardens. Likewise, space-saving or bush cultivars of traditional vining crops are useful for smaller gardens or containers.

Another important guideline: plants may have outstanding characteristics but should fit into your yard and garden plan. Flowers, shrubs, or trees need to be good matches for growing conditions of the site where they will be planted. Consider sun or shade level, soil conditions, and fitting into the scheme of the landscape. For size, consider both height and width or spread. For fruits and vegetables, make sure to have a use for the crop once harvested.

Last but certainly not least, for all perennial garden and landscape plants, make sure they are hardy to your climate zone.

Mail order catalogs are great to start thinking about gardening; just use them wisely!

Source: hort.extension.wisc.edu©