Planning a large vegetable garden will involve creating permanent structures such as storage sheds and compost heaps.  In addition, dividing your area is important to have space to rotate your vegetable groups. Here are a few ideas that will facilitate a large vegetable garden design.

Planning a Large Vegetable Garden

Large vegetable gardens need to be planned like any garden: they need good light, soil, and space. Larger gardens have abundant space and don’t face the problems created by shadows from nearby buildings. You’ll need to make sure the soil is in good shape for growing your favorite veggies and herbs.

As you plan your garden, consider adding structures, such as greenhouses and polytunnels, that will help you extend your growing season. Year-round gardening is one of my dreams.

With a large space for gardening, you can split your plot into definite areas, which will help with proper crop rotation.

As you journey into large vegetable gardening, plan to set everything up over two seasons.

Start small if necessary

It’s important to remember not to try to complete everything in the first season. A large gardening area can be quite daunting, and there’s nothing wrong with starting your garden on a small scale. Each consecutive season, you can introduce new structures, vegetables, and herbs so you can actually enjoy your time in the garden.

In the first year, build (or purchase) a storage shed to keep yourself organized. Also, a water collection system and a couple of compost heaps should be set up.

In the second year, introduce a poly-tunnel, some fruit cages, and permanent crop areas.

Using garden beds

Using beds in your garden makes it easier to care for it. You don’t need to walk on the soil, and you can grow your vegetables a little closer together. This improves yields.

It may seem a little wasteful to have grass paths between each vegetable patch, but as you never need to dig or feed the paths, it will save you time. And when you think that you need walking space between crops anyway, using beds improves the yield.

If you don’t like mowing between your garden beds, you can create a stone path or add a ground cover that grows close to the ground.

Vegetable sowing the right way

You will also need to decide what you will sow in one go and what you will sow in succession. In our plan, almost all the vegetable plants would be sown when suggested. For example, we need 120 leeks, 40 calabrese (broccoli), and about 12 courgettes (zucchini), so at the earliest opportunity the plan gives us, we would sow enough seeds to provide us with these plants.

We don’t count each seed: instead, we scatter sow small seeds and double sow larger ones, thinning out the seedlings so that we have the right number of plants.

Vegetables Planting Calendar

By using succession sowing and closer spacing, you can grow almost every vegetable you eat during the year.

If you have a large garden, you could create a growing list based on the vegetables you buy more often and grow the vegetables you are more likely to eat.

Here is a helpful guide:  Vegetable Gardening: A Beginner’s Guide – TUTORING YOU

But whatever you decide to grow, understanding vegetable groups and crop rotation is very important in a large vegetable garden.

Our plan also directs us to sow over 60 lettuces from the beginning of March, which would not be a good idea. Lettuces tend to take a few months to mature but will only be edible for a few weeks, so unless you can eat 20 lettuces a week, you are better off staggering your sowing. This is known as succession sowing.

We tend to sow lettuce every three weeks, sowing enough for a three-week period. If you eat three lettuces per week, you will need nine plants plus some for losses. You’ll need some seed-sowing trays.

Of course, sowing 12 seeds in individual cells will be a real fiddle, so instead, scatter sow on each cell and pinch out all but the strongest seedlings as they germinate.

Plan to spend some time in your garden

Although it is very difficult to quantify how much time you will need to grow your own vegetables on a larger scale, you must expect that during the growing season, an allotment-sized garden will take up a couple of evenings and at least half the weekend.

And as the harvest starts coming in, processing the bumper crops will keep you in the kitchen far longer than you might have imagined. I’m not trying to discourage you, but planning with your eyes open is much better.

Source:  backyardgardenlover.com

Related:  Dig into the benefits of gardening – TUTORING YOU

 

How on earth did that small arborvitae I planted in front of the house get so huge?  It happens all the time to beloved plants that now don’t fit in your landscape.

Either a previous owner, or maybe it was you, planted something that was tiny when it was new, but over the years it has slowly turned into a hulking monster.

It is really hard to imagine the size that a shrub or tree will eventually achieve even a few years, let alone when it is fully mature.  Plant companies and breeders know that this a common problem so the influx of dwarf (or latin ‘nana’) varieties are very common.  But if there is no dwarf, you may find you need to seek out other options.  Here are some smaller options for four of the most loved, but often overgrown garden plants.

Arborvitae

Arborvitae commonly found in nurseries top out at anywhere from 20 to 60 feet tall —not exactly what you want in front of your living room window. Look out for Thuja occcidentalis ‘De Groot’s Spire’ (pictured above in the background) on the other hand, is a slim, tall-ish column that slowly grows to just 15 feet tall and 4 feet wide.

Thuja occcidentalis ‘De Groot’s Spire’ is a cultivar of the native Eastern arborvitae that works beautifully as a foundation bed accent or a repeating vertical theme in a large mixed border. It prefers full sun to part sun and will be much less dense if grown in shade. USDA Zones 3-8.

For Arborvitae/Evergreen Screening: Juniperus virginiana (Eastern Red Cedar) or Juniperus scopulorum ‘Wichita Blue’ are praised for their toughness, drought resistance, and beautiful blue boughs.

Lilacs

Need a ladder to smell your lilacs?
The common lilac, Syringa vulgaris, matures at 12 to 20 feet tall and spreads 8 to 15 feet across. A good alternative is S. meyeri ‘Palibin’, a compact 4–5-foot cultivar of Korean lilac. Or Also, The Bloomerang lilacs (S. x ‘Bloomerang’, ‘Bloomerang Purple’) were developed using S. meyerii as a parent and are a great, short 3–4-foot alternative.

 

Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ has pale pink, fragrant flowers that bloom profusely in late spring. As a bonus, its foliage is quite resistant to powdery mildew. Full sun, USDA Zones 4-7.

 

 

Bloomerang lilacs (Syringa x ‘Bloomerang’, ‘Bloomerang Purple‘) are a great 3-to-4-foot alternative to the larger and more mildew-prone common lilac, S. vulgaris. Another plus is their sporadic re-bloom throughout the summer and into fall. Full sun, USDA Zones 4-7.

Birch Trees

Why did you think that river birch would work as a foundation plant?
River birch is a beautiful native tree with gorgeous form and bark, accompanied by a great constitution, but it is also fast-growing to and can quickly reach 30 to 40 feet.

It’s baby cousin, however, Betula nigra ‘Little King’, is just as nice but it tops out at no more than 12 feet.

 

 

 

Betula nigra ‘Little King’ is a dense, compact, multi-stemmed shrub with an irregular crown, typically growing close to 10 feet tall and wide. It fits nicely in a foundation garden or as a centerpiece of a mixed border. Full Sun to Part Shade, USDA Zones 4-9.

Butterfly Bush

Love butterflies, but can’t get over the big ugly butterfly bush mess that happens every winter?

Late summer blooms and butterflies, especially in a small garden, can be had with dwarf Buddleia x ‘Lo and Behold’ series – none gets more than 3 feet tall.

The ‘Lo and Behold’ series offers lots of color choices: blue, lilac, pink and deep purple. Any one (or a combination) would make a fantastic mass planting in a hot, dry, sunny spot, and you can sit back and watch the butterflies at play. Full sun, Zones 5-9.

Another choice, For Butterfly Bush (Buddleia): Diervilla ‘Kodiak Orange’ is recommended for its toughness, pollinator appeal, and spectacular fall foliage, making it a better, non-invasive choice.

Article by Rochelle Greayer:    pithandvigor.com©

The deer population has skyrocketed, and deer have your yards in their sights all year long looking for anything they can eat. They use your garden as a buffet and can completely decimate and wreak havoc in a garden. There are all different kinds of things that you can do to dissuade and deter these graceful garden munchers away from your prized plants. These are the top 5 ways that we’ve found to stop deer from eating plants.

Choose Deer Resistant Garden Plants

One of the best ways to keep your garden from being eaten by deer is to fill it with deer-resistant plants so that they will avoid your yard altogether. Some of the best perennial plants that discourage hungry deer are Boxwood, Russian sage, ornamental grasses, black-eyed susan, bellflower, catmint, ferns, iris, lamb’s ear, lupine, and salvia.

Unfortunately, vegetables are not on that list, and vegetable gardens are pretty much a salad bar for deer to graze on. So, you’ll have to outsmart the hungry specimens with some of the methods below.

Hosta with deer damage.

Put up a Deer Fence Around your Garden or Yard

The most effective technique for deterring deer is to install a fence around the garden or yard. The trick is that any old fence will not do, as deer are known for their ability to jump rather high. The ideal barrier to keep deer out should be approximately 7-8 feet in height. For garden access to the garden, installing a gate is also important, but don’t forget to keep the entrances to your garden closed.

Scare Deer Away

Scare deer away from your garden in a variety of different ways. If you have a dog in the yard, allow the faithful companion to roam around the garden with you. Dogs will spread their scent around the garden, which will act as a natural deterrent for grazing deer. If dogs are outside, their bark alone will be enough to startle them so that they will move on.

Consider getting a motion-activated device like a floodlight that will engage when deer come close to your garden. Wooden wind chimes or hanging tin pie plates throughout the garden bed will also work to disrupt the path of deer with startling noises.

Scatter Human Hair Clippings around the Edges of the Garden

Have you had a recent haircut? Save the clippings and spread them around the border of your garden bed. Deer will smell the hair and equate it with the smell of humans, and they will stay away from the area where they perceive that humans are present.

Deter Deer with Odors

Deer have a very keen sense of smell, so use that as an opportunity to use it to your advantage. One effective way of keeping deer away from your garden is through the use of heavily scented products. The most popular deterrents are bars of deodorant soap. Simply take several bars of soap, punch a hole in each one, and use twine to hang the bars of soap from the trees and fencing around your garden. Deer will smell the soap and steer clear of your crops.

There are many other deer deterrents that also rely on odor, and their overall effectiveness can depend on how long it takes the grazers to get used to the new scents. It is not out of the ordinary for these techniques to only be temporarily effective deterrents, so you will have to be vigilant and switch things up every few days to outsmart them. Some of these deterrents include spreading things like bloodmeal, decaying fish heads, and garlic around your garden plants.

There are also some varieties of organic deer repellent that you can purchase from your local nursery. Be sure that you are using only a natural variation and make sure that it is safe to use around edible plantings. These repellents also rely on odors to repel deer from eating plants.

Use a Variety of Methods

Overall, hungry deer are adaptable, resourceful, and relentless, so there is no guarantee that they will avoid your garden entirely with any one method alone. Combine methods and change things up from time to time to catch deer off guard and to most effectively preventing them from decimating your garden. Choose plants that deer don’t favor, put up a fence, use scare tactics, odors, and other deterrents to give yourself the best chance at keeping their grazing on your plants at bay.

Source: kellogggarden.com©

Photo Credit: yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu©

Sometimes growers just want to try something new in their garden. How about an ancient fruit with edible leaves? How about figs? 

For many years, growing figs was relegated to warmer regions, but with the combination of the warming climate and the development of cold-hardy fig varieties, Illinois growers can add this delicious, interesting fruit to home gardens.

Figs are a delightful option for home gardeners, combining sweet, rich flavor and ease of care. Once established, fig trees require minimal maintenance, are drought-tolerant, and can adapt to various soil types. Figs are versatile trees that can flourish in USDA growing zones 5 to 11, depending on their variety and the climate conditions. They also adapt well to container gardening, allowing you to enjoy fresh figs indoors or on your balcony or patio.

Growing Figs

The Chicago Hardy fig (Ficus carica ‘Chicago hardy’) is the most cold-weather tolerant of fig trees and performs well in all areas of Illinois. Not only does the fig produce delicious fruit that can be used in both sweet and savory dishes, but fig trees are also a great specimen planting as an ornamental with their deeply lobed, large leaves and interesting bark. 

Cold-hardy figs can be grown in the ground or in a large container. Even though they are cold-hardy plants, choosing a site that is protected and sheltered from intense winds is best. Figs require six to eight hours of full sun and prefer a rich, loamy soil. Newly planted figs should receive regular watering, but after the first year, figs are very tolerant of mild drought conditions. 

Figs are generally low-maintenance and free from significant pests. Figs can tolerate severe pruning. The Chicago Hardy fig grows 10 to 15 feet tall and 9 to 12 feet wide, but can be pruned and maintained at a height of six feet. Unlike other fig varieties, the Chicago Hardy fig is self-pollinating and does not require an insect pollinator. 

Excitingly, figs produce fruit the very first year. With other fruit trees, the wait is usually several years. Figs should be harvested only when they are fully ripe, as they will not ripen once they are off the tree. Ripe Chicago Hardy figs are a deep purple or brown and yield slightly to the touch. Figs that are soft are overripe. 

An easy, delicious way to use figs is to grill them with a splash of balsamic vinegar. 

Overwintering Figs

To overwinter figs, if they are planted in the ground, apply a thick layer of mulch. If in a container, move the fig to an interior space once the leaves start to fall in autumn. The containerized fig will go dormant to overwinter and does not require a heated area. Water infrequently when the top two to three inches seem dry, just to keep the roots hydrated. 

If the winter is incredibly harsh and the fig branches are winter-killed, the roots usually will send up new branches in spring. Figs are a phenomenal addition to the garden. 

Source: extension.illinois.edu©

This year’s lineup is loaded with show-stopping annuals and tender perennials that shine in planters, borders, and anywhere you need a pop of color. Tender perennials often get treated like annuals, but if you live where they’re hardy, you get to enjoy them more than one season.

Besties^™ Dynamic Bicolor cape daisy (Osteospermum ecklonis)

These cool-season flowers have a beautiful blend of orange, purple and yellow on each bloom. Though the flowering slows a little in summer’s heat, these plants keep going strong and take off again in fall.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of heat-resistant flowers 
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, 12 to 14 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 9 to 11
Introducer: Danziger 
Source: Local garden centers

‘Pink Ribbons’ coleus (Coleus scutellarioides)

Part of the Terrascape series, ‘Pink Ribbons’ thrives even in full sun, though the color is a bit brighter in part shade. Flowers don’t show up until late in the season, so you probably won’t need to deadhead.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Colorful sun-tolerant foliage with late blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 18 to 26 in. tall, 18 to 20 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Kientzler North America
Source: Local garden centers

Venti^™ PinkBurst dahlia (Dahlia pinnata)

You won’t run short of these anemone-shaped flowers in the garden or in your vase. Venti PinkBurst has loads of blooms from late spring to frost. Deadheading keeps plants tidy and encourages more flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of anemone-style blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 16 to 18 in. tall, 14 to 16 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 8 to 10
Introducer: Selecta One^®
Source: Local garden centers

Big EEZE Pink Panther geranium (Pelargonium hybrid)

For big flowers and easy-to-grow plants, this new color in the Big EEZE annual geranium series is a sure bet. Those bright pink blooms keep going even when summer is hot and humid. Deadheading helps tidy up plants and make room for new flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Heat- and humidity-tolerant plants with eye-catching pink flowers
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Dümmen Orange^®
Source: Local garden centers

Amazonas^™ Plum Cockatoo (Petunia hybrid)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Ruffled green petals with a deep purple center
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 14 in. tall, 14 to 18 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Danziger
Source: Local garden centers

Source: gardengatemagazine.com©

These beautiful blooms won’t thrive everywhere.

Hydrangeas are versatile shrubs that are beloved for their blue, purple, and pink blooms. However, there are some areas in the garden where hydrangeas may not thrive. In general, these plants prefer partial shade and well-draining soil, so environments with excessive sun or water can cause them to wilt.

Clay Soils

Hydrangeas do best in well-drained soil, so a water-logged area of the garden that retains moisture isn’t ideal.

“[They] don’t like wet feet,” says Jan Johnsen, landscape designer and principal of Johnsen Landscapes & Pools. “Don’t plant hydrangeas in low-lying areas or in heavy, poorly-drained soil.”

Full Sun

Full, all-day sun isn’t ideal for most hydrangeas, says Johnsen—especially if the temperature is high.

“Full sun, especially in warm climates, can burn the flowers and leaves, and can more easily dry out and cause the shrub to shrivel up,” adds Ryan McEnaney, professional gardener and communications manager for Baylie Nurseries.

Some varieties prefer more sun than others, though. Panicle hydrangeas do well in full sun, but hot climates still call for partial shade. Smooth hydrangeas, on the other hand, are native to riverbanks and wooded areas, so they prefer more shade.

Windy Areas

You shouldn’t plant hydrangeas in wide open areas—especially if there’s a lot of wind. This can damage certain varieties, causing them to struggle.

“Smooth hydrangeas don’t typically form thick, woody stems, so heavy wind can cause stems to snap or bend, and the blooms to droop onto the ground,” says McEnaney.

Small Pots

You can grow smaller varieties of hydrangeas in containers—but only if said container is big enough. A smaller pot may be problematic.

“Hydrangeas have roots that grow horizontally, so if you’re planting smaller varieties in deco pots, be sure that they’re at least 15 to 18 inches wide to allow the root system to develop without becoming rootbound,” says McEnaney.

They should also be deep enough to support moisture retention—shallow pots will dry out quickly.

Fertilized Lawns

A green lawn can look beautiful—but you may not want to grow your hydrangeas next to it. Grass fertilizer is high in nitrogen, which will slow down bloom production. However, if you really want to grow hydrangeas in this area, you can still make it work.

[Just] be sure the turf fertilizer doesn’t spray into the garden bed,” says McEnaney. “Fertilize your hydrangeas with a phosphorus-rich bloom booster, or put your hydrangeas in pots to better control the soil and nutrients.”

Source: Original article on Martha Stewart©

Photo Credit: Maryna Andriichenko / Getty Images©

With the New Year comes a new crop of gardening catalogs. Inviting descriptions and color photos make it very tempting to order without considering all factors, especially in the middle of winter. Follow some general guidelines to ensure plant materials ordered are the right ones when the growing season arrives.

First, it sounds simple but make sure you know exactly what the plant is. Descriptions can be great to read, but common names may vary. Look for what is called the Latin, scientific or botanical name to be listed, especially with perennials, shrubs, or trees. All three terms refer to the same thing and are considered the universal language, or identity, when classifying plants. This nomenclature includes the genus and specific epithet, or species. If a Latin name is not given, you may not get the plant you think you are ordering.

Most vegetables and annual flowers typically do not need Latin names to be used, but cultivars or varieties become particularly important. For all types of plants, cultivars (developed by crop breeding) or varieties (natural variants) have characteristics making them unique within the species. For example, desirable features such as disease resistance, a certain flower or foliage color, or modifications in size or growth habit of plants are all examples of cultivar and variety-specific characteristics.

With vegetables in particular, disease resistant cultivars, although not immune to disease, are the single most useful tool for preventing serious disease outbreaks. Look for disease resistance first, then choose other features of interest. Cultivars and varieties with a shorter time to harvest are good choices when growing longer season crops like pumpkins, squash, and melons in northern gardens. Likewise, space-saving or bush cultivars of traditional vining crops are useful for smaller gardens or containers.

Another important guideline: plants may have outstanding characteristics but should fit into your yard and garden plan. Flowers, shrubs, or trees need to be good matches for growing conditions of the site where they will be planted. Consider sun or shade level, soil conditions, and fitting into the scheme of the landscape. For size, consider both height and width or spread. For fruits and vegetables, make sure to have a use for the crop once harvested.

Last but certainly not least, for all perennial garden and landscape plants, make sure they are hardy to your climate zone.

Mail order catalogs are great to start thinking about gardening; just use them wisely!

Source: hort.extension.wisc.edu©

Experts are sharing practical tips to turn even the smallest balcony into a lush, functional retreat. From vertical planters to plant choices tailored for sun, shade, or wind, the advice covers design, comfort, and purpose. The trend aligns with 2026’s push for wellness-focused, intimate outdoor spaces that blend style with personal expression.

Best Balcony Plants by Light & Wind Conditions

Here’s a clean breakdown based on the expert guidance:

For Shady Balconies

These thrive without strong direct sun:

• Elephant ears – bold, dramatic foliage
• Coleus – tons of color variations
• Begonias – reliable blooms and shade tolerance

For Windy Balconies

Wind can stress delicate plants, so choose flexible, resilient species:

• Ornamental grasses like fountain grass or blue fescue
• Gaura – airy flowers that handle movement well

For Sunny Balconies

Full sun opens up lots of options:

• Petunias – bright, long‑lasting color
• Lavender – fragrance + pollinator appeal
• Strawberries – edible, compact, and sun‑loving

Balcony design trends for 2026

According to House Digest, 2026 outdoor living will emphasize eclectic, mismatched furniture over uniform sets, creating spaces with more character. Wellness-focused areas, from yoga decks to hot tubs, are gaining popularity alongside smaller, intimate gathering spots. Designers are also encouraging personalized, inspiring balcony spaces as part of a broader trend toward meaningful outdoor experiences. 

Lighting and decor to elevate ambiance

Layered lighting using lanterns, fairy lights, and paper pendants can transform balconies into warm, inviting retreats. Soft amber glows work for both summer gatherings and winter evenings, while rattan chairs and cushioned seating add comfort. Decorative elements like slim wooden planters and ambient lantern clusters provide charm without cluttering the space.

Source: msn.com©

Granny pods are detached tiny homes that can be built or installed in a backyard or elsewhere on a property close to a larger home, allowing an aging loved one to be close to those who are helping care for them, while still maintaining some independence and privacy for everyone. You can find many prefab home models for sale (new or pre-owned) that include a bathroom and everything they’ll need (more on that below!). No matter what home style you go with, its proximity means Granny will be close enough to pop over to join the grandkids for a craft project, a movie night, or a homemade cake baking session any time. Win and win? We think so.

What Is a Granny Pod?

A granny pod is a modified guest house that allows caregivers close proximity to aging loved ones. They are also called ADUs, or accessory dwelling units, and are designed with safety and accessibility top of mind (for example: slip-resistant floors, wide doorways, and rounded countertops). Some versions offer high-tech medical extras, other models are foldable, and most can be built in a reasonable amount of time with help from handy friends who know their way around a toolbox.

Where Can You Buy (or Rent) a Granny Pod?

Whether a DIY cabin kit from Amazon or a customized, pre-fabricated tiny home, options for granny pods are more plentiful than ever. Depending on your wants and needs, you can choose from a variety of home styles and floor plans. And, it’s completely up to you if you prefer to assemble yourself or hire a pro.

Bungalow-like on the outside and hotel suite-like on the inside, these structures include up to 440 square feet of living space, a kitchenette, a bed (or separate bedroom), and bathroom. Many of these portable accessible tiny homes are similar to a hospital room, providing customers options for standard safety features such as hand railings, defibrillators, first aid supplies, lighted floorboards, and a soft floor to minimize injury from falls. Among other optional features, double French doors can accommodate a wheelchair and other hospital equipment, if needed.

Along with online retailers such as Amazon, businesses such as WheelPad and Cottage Depot offer free-standing dwellings designed to be installed in the backyard behind the main residence (zoning laws permitting, of course) that can be purchased or leased. The firm FabCab specializes in modern-style homes for aging in place, and both interior and exterior spaces of their homes get the universal design treatment, a philosophy that all environments should work for all ages and abilities. Accessibility is considered in every space, from bathrooms to outdoor patios.

Are Granny Pods Legal?

Typically these small dwellings are hooked up to the main home’s existing sewer, water, and power lines, so you’ll need to obtain the necessary building approvals required by local agencies. And, as previously mentioned, zoning laws in your area may have rules regarding the amount of land that can be covered by a structure. Check to make sure all intended uses of the cottage have been cleared before purchasing, including homeowner association agreements and proximity to historic districts, wetlands, or parks.

How Much Does a Granny Pod Cost?

Depending on the type of dwelling you choose, the estimated cost will likely run between $100,000 to $250,000, Carolyn McClanahan, a financial planner at Life Planning Partners in Jacksonville, Florida, told CNBC. Depending on how many years the pod is used, the price could pay off, as the median cost of assisted living care is $5,190 a month in 2025, while skilled nursing home care ranges from $8,669 to $9,733 a month, according to A Place for Mom.

Source: countryliving.com©

Photo by medium.com©

After waiting out the cold winter months, your green thumb is probably itching to get back into the soil. But before you pull on your garden gloves, here are a few signs to look for that indicate when to start planting a garden.

Last Frost Date

The cooperative extension service in your area (connected to your state’s land grant university) tracks the first and last frost dates each season to determine an average day for both. The average first and last frost dates are key indicators of when to plant. Cool-weather crops, such as spinach, peas, and radishes, go in about three weeks before your average last frost date. Wait until after the final frost to plant warm-weather vegetables and herbs, such as tomatoes, peppers, and basil. In the fall, you count backward from the first frost date to determine when to plant more cool-weather crops.

Workable Soil

In many areas of the U.S., the ground in spring is frozen and/or soggy. When the soil has defrosted and it is dry enough to crumble in your hands, you can begin working out your vegetable garden layout plans and spacing. Many cool-weather plants can go in as soon as the soil is workable.

Rising Nighttime Temperatures

Even when some of the days are warming up, overnight temperatures can still drop into the high 30s and low 40s—too cold for warm-season garden vegetables and herbs to grow or even survive. Cold-tolerant plants can go into your garden when the temps stay above 45 degrees F at night. Hold off until nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees F to put in warm-season vegetables and herbs.

Increasing Sunlight Hours

Observe your garden beds in the morning and evening to see when sunlight starts and stops shining on them. Leafy plants such as greens and most herbs need about six to eight hours of sunlight a day to be productive. Crops that bear fruit, including tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, require more than 10 hours of daylight during the peak growing season. Build your garden plans around when the plants get sufficient light to grow and thrive.

Nature Clues

Phenology is the study of the timing and cyclical patterns of events in the natural world. These phenomena have become the source of tried-and-true folk wisdom that can help you determine when to plant your garden. For instance, you can sow seeds of radishes and cool-season greens when crocuses begin blooming in your area. Plant peas, onion sets, and lettuce after you see forsythia flowering, but wait until the daffodils open to put in half-hardy vegetables such as beets, carrots, and chard. Look for dandelions to bloom before planting potatoes and start bush beans when you see apple trees in blossom. Move tomato starts to the garden when lilies-of-the-valley flower but wait until the bearded irises open for peppers and eggplant.

Overcast Days

While your garden plants need lots of sun to grow and thrive, the best conditions for putting them in the ground are cloudy with a sprinkle of rain. This helps the transplants to settle in and begin to draw up moisture through their roots before the bright sun beats down on them. Watch the weather forecast and look for a day that will be overcast or even drizzly to plant your garden.

Seed Packets and Plant Tags

If you’re a beginner at gardening, the pros at Burpee make it easy for you to know when to plant. On every seed packet and plant tag from Burpee, you’ll see guidance on the ideal time to sow or transplant the varieties you’ve selected. Burpee’s Garden-Ready Plants are even simpler because they are shipped to you when it’s time to put them in your beds or containers.

You’ll find a wide range of products to help you launch your garden and all the information you need in Burpee’s Guide to Getting Started.

Source: burpee.com/garden-guide©