Category: Gardening

Zinnia Flower Growing Guide

Zinnias are the most cheerful flowers you can plant — plus they’re fast-growing, easy-care and add lots of color to the garden.

How to grow zinnia flowers

It used to be that most of us grew zinnias in rows. You still can, but why not toss a few seeds around in your border, like the gardener did in the photo above? Since zinnias are so easy to grow from seed, that’s a colorful, and economical, way to fill out a flower bed. Butterflies like the vivid, easy-to-spot colors and will be drawn to your garden. Plus, just imagine how many bouquets you could pick from this border!

Get your zinnias off to a good start, whether you plant seed or starter plants, by giving them the right growing conditions with these growing tips.

Choose the right spot

Choose a location with good air circulation and full sun — zinnias will be floppy and sickly in shade. And while these annuals tolerate a wide range of soil types, they’ll bloom best in a moist, well-drained soil that has lots of compost worked into it.

Plant when it is warm

Sow the seeds directly on tilled soil and lightly cover them, or set out seedlings you buy in cell packs when the soil is thoroughly warm (about the same time you’d put out tomato plants). Zinnias will languish in cold weather — they really do like the heat.

Don’t overwater

Dry conditions translate to healthier zinnias. If you have to water, apply it only at the base of the plant or use a soaker hose so the foliage stays dry — keep moisture off their leaves to prevent powdery mildew from developing. Add a couple of inches of organic mulch, such as compost, around the plants to keep the soil moist and you won’t have to do as much watering.

Don’t overfertilize

In good soil there’s really no need for extra fertilizer, but if you want, a light sprinkling of a low-nitrogen, slow-release food will keep them blooming all summer.

Article by Jim Childs for Garden Gate Magazine©

Related:  Prevent, protect zinnias from powdery mildew – TUTORING YOU

 

3 Container Plant Pairings That Thrive on Neglect

The beauty of containers is that you can grow practically anything – and there’s no need to confine yourself to just one plant. In fact, pick a pair of plants that grow in similar conditions and they can easily thrive in containers together. And if you prefer ‘set and forget’ plants which require minimal upkeep, there are plenty of combinations to explore.

Containers provide a brilliant way to mix up your planting, whether you want to spruce up a patio or deck, or bring visual interest to an otherwise empty spot.

Below, experts give their advice on the best low-maintenance plant pairings for container gardening – from classic herbs to pollinator-friendly blooms.

1. Lavender and Thyme

(Image credit: Cyndi Monaghan / Getty Images) 

‘Thyme and lavender do surprisingly well together.  In addition, they’re not always “book companions,” but in practice they handle heat, dry soil, and full sun in stride.’

Both plants prefer sandy soil and thrive in hot weather.  However, they require infrequent watering.

2. Coreopsis and Gaillardia

(Image credit: Heilieh Sanders / Getty Images) 

Gaillardia (or blanket flower) and coreopsis (or tickseed) is a particularly brilliant pairing, since both plants prefer sunny weather and are largely drought-tolerant.

‘Established coreopsis and gaillardia can cope with dry periods.  But they will need regular water in containers, especially during hot summer spells,’ advises Drew Swainston, Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

Both plants have a lengthy flowering season and require minimal upkeep. Plus, they are both nectar-rich, making them great additions to a pollinator garden.

‘Coreopsis and gaillardia are known to flower for an age, so you get a bright display from early summer right through the fall,’ explains Drew. ‘The showy, vivid blooms can bring a wildflower vibe to a pot, and both plants are magnets for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators.’

3. Heucheras and Wallflowers

(Image credit: Charles Hawes / Getty Images) 

Both of these spring flowering plants are beloved for their vibrant color and impressively simple requirements: simply set them up in rich but well-draining soil, position your container in a bright spot, and water during lengthy dry spells.

Heucheras are also known as coral bells, and they are easy to grow in pots. They thrive in dappled sunlight and are also great in shade and can be planted from May to September. When adding them to a pot, however, it’s best to spread a little gravel mulch on the soil to lock in moisture and keep pests away.

There are plenty of heuchera varieties to choose from.  you can pick from up purple heuchera plants or opt for ‘pistachio ambrosia’ heucheras.

Meanwhile, wallflowers also love partial shade, although they usually grow best in sunny conditions. A well-draining potting mix is essential, as wallflowers will suffer if overwatered.

Source:  homesandgardens.com©

Related:  Some Plants Do Better in Containers—Here’s Why with Examples – TUTORING YOU

Gardening Tips for Low Maintenance Plants

Savvy gardeners know that deadheading spent blooms keeps annuals and many perennial plants looking their best week after week. But not all plants require deadheading.

Some plants continue to bloom their hearts out with little to no pruning, while others are self-cleaning, meaning spent flowers drop off naturally by means of wind, rain, or plant growth. These plants keep on blooming even when you don’t remove the old flowers. If you’re looking to save time in the garden, consider growing plants that don’t require deadheading to stay in bloom.

Some plants perform best when spent blooms are left in place. Many annuals and perennials reseed in the garden, replacing themselves or slowly spreading to cover more ground. Leaving the faded flowers on these plants will ensure seeds develop to nurture the next generation of blooms. Then there are plants that continue to shine even as their blossoms fade. They may produce gorgeous seed heads like sedums, or dry in place like hydrangeas.

Here are a few plants that you need not bother deadheading.

Angelonia

Columbine

Hydrangeas

Supertunia® Petunias

Sedum

Love-in-a-Mist

Bidens

Baptisia

Alliums

Foxglove

Calibrachoa

Hollyhock

Cleome

Dwarf Morning Glory

Cardinal Flower

Source:  Southern Living©

Photo credit:  © Ralph Lee Anderson

Related:  Pruning Principles 101 – TUTORING YOU

Growing clematis with hostas to attract pollinators

A perfect companion plant

You probably know that hostas are the perfect plants for shady spots and people who don’t have a lot of time to fuss over their gardens. They’re bold, beautiful, and add some impressive structural elements to those peaceful and shady areas of your yard. But what if you want to grow a plant that flowers profusely to attract butterflies and other pollinators? For that, you’ll need a species that can handle partial shade and appreciates moist, organically rich soil. While there are actually quite a few companion plants to grow alongside your hostas, there’s one that’s a standout for its stunning flowers, and that is clematis.

Clematis are perennial climbing and vining plants that will grow in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 9.  Also, you can choose from any of the 400 species and additional hybrids and cultivars. Since the stems of these plants are quite fragile, they will require some type of support structure that you can place behind your hostas. To create an attractive display, grow the clematis up a wall or fence, then position hostas in front to add ground-hugging interest. Clematis flowers, which come in a whole range of colors, are filled with nectar and pollen, making many varieties irresistible to bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. As a bonus, other small birds like to use the cover of the vines for nesting.

Growing Clematis

Clematis grow best when they receive morning sun and afternoon shade, especially in areas that experience hot summers. Keeping these vines protected from the scorching rays will prevent the flowers from fading, so you can enjoy their brilliant colors longer. You’ll find that the best place to plant clematis in your garden is next to your hostas because the latter species will shade the roots of the vines, which is what they prefer. Clematis plants will absolutely flourish if their upper foliage and flowers receive at least 6 hours of sunshine daily, but the roots and lower part of the plants are well-shaded.

Watering

Like hostas, clematis appreciate moist soil that contains plenty of organic matter and drains well. This means that the watering requirements of both plants are virtually identical.  Basically, it  ensures that you can keep your clematis from wilting by providing adequate hydration. To keep your clematis growing to its full potential, you’ll want to fertilize it at least once a year with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer around spring or after the first lot of flowers, depending on the type that you’re growing. This will also benefit your hostas, which tend to put on a lot of new growth during this time. Just take care not to fertilize clematis when they’re just starting to form flower buds or are in full bloom.

Source:  House Digest©

Photo credit:  © Kriachko OleskII Shutterstock

Related:  Gardening experts reveal how to use hostas to prevent weeds in your yard – TUTORING YOU

7 ways you can ensure a summer of beautiful pollinators

A butterfly garden doesn’t need to be a formal thing – no dedicated beds required, no full redesign. A few additions in the right places, just one or two things left alone that would normally get cleaned up. That’s pretty much the whole formula. What follows is where to put the effort this month.

What Butterflies Need

Supporting butterflies doesn’t require a big overhaul. Most of what they need is already achievable in an afternoon – a few additions, maybe one deliberate choice to leave something alone, and the season starts working in their favor.

1. Plant Nectar Sources Now for Peak Bloom Later

Nectar is the obvious starting point, but timing the plantings matters quite a bit. Put in mid-to-late summer bloomers now – coneflowers, Joe-Pye weed, native asters – and they’ll be peaking right when butterfly populations are at their heaviest. Garden centers are well-stocked, and these plants go in without much fuss.

Flower shape pulls in different species too; flat-topped blooms give some butterflies a platform to land and walk, while tubular flowers suit others. A mix of forms over a long bloom window pulls more variety than a single mass planting, however popular the plant.

2. Set Out a Water Source

Butterflies don’t drink like birds do. They puddle – touching down on damp soil or wet sand to pull up moisture and minerals, especially trace minerals and sodium – and open water isn’t very useful to them. Sand or fine gravel in a shallow dish, kept consistently damp, is all it takes to water a butterfly.

A butterfly puddling dish should have the right depth and texture without collecting enough standing water to become a mosquito issue. Put it somewhere sunny and near the nectar plants – a puddling station in the shade gets ignored.

3. Add Host Plants for Egg-Laying

Nectar pulls butterflies in to feed. Butterfly host plants are what keep them around long enough to reproduce – and without the right ones, they won’t.

Female butterflies are picky about where they lay; each species needs specific plants for its eggs where its caterpillars can eat, and if those plants aren’t somewhere in the garden, breeding just doesn’t happen.

Monarchs and milkweed is the pairing that is widely known. Swallowtail caterpillars go after parsley, dill, or fennel. Fritillaries need native violets. Even one or two host plants tucked in somewhere makes a garden part of the local cycle rather than just a feeding stop on the way through.

4. Ease Up on Pesticides

Broad-spectrum sprays don’t sort between the insects a gardener wants and the ones they don’t. Butterfly eggs, caterpillars, and adults are all vulnerable, and May is when caterpillars from early-season eggs are actively feeding. Chewed-up leaves on a host plant aren’t damaged – that’s the whole point of having host plants.

Where pest pressure elsewhere genuinely needs attention, spot treatments in the evening do far less harm than a broadcast spray. Reach for targeted controls first; a general spray that doesn’t discriminate between a caterpillar and an aphid isn’t really solving the problem.

5. Create Sunny Resting Spots

On cool May mornings, butterflies can’t fly until they’ve warmed up – they spread their wings and angle toward the sun, sometimes for a while before doing much of anything. Flat garden stepping stones work well as basking surfaces and pull double duty as path material – dark-colored ones absorb heat faster, and that difference shows in how much traffic a spot gets.

A patch of dark bare soil in a sunny corner does the job too, if hardscaping isn’t in the plan. A garden with a few good basking areas sees activity start earlier in the day – which is a small thing, but it adds up over a season.

6. Leave Some Corners Alone

The urge to tidy everything up is understandable, but it’s worth resisting in at least one corner of the garden. Some species are still finishing out winter as chrysalises in the leaf litter or pupae just under the soil surface – raking things out too aggressively can destroy them before they get the chance to emerge.

Loose soil and a bit of debris pull double duty as puddling spots and basking patches anyway. A deliberately rough corner costs nothing to maintain and tends to support more butterfly activity than things added on purpose. Leave it messy. That’s the point.

7. Reduce Mowing Near Flower Beds

Lawn right up against garden beds creates a kind of dead zone – mowed grass offers nothing to butterflies and acts as a barrier between habitat patches. Even a foot or two (30–60cm) of unmowed edge changes that. Clover moves in fast on its own, and violets aren’t far behind – both happen to be host plants, which is a bonus. The border looks intentional once things fill in, not neglected, though that probably depends on the neighbors. Either way, the butterflies aren’t judging.

Source:  msn.com©

((Image credit: Shutterstock))

Related:  Why Every Garden Needs a Butterfly Puddler—And How to Make Yours – TUTORING YOU

Can A Simple Ribbon Trick Convince Hummingbirds to Stop by Your Feeder?

If your hummingbird-friendly flower garden isn’t working, your daily birdwatching may be akin to staring out a window like in a sad music video. If your feeders aren’t being used, you may need to employ some clever tricks to bring hummingbirds in. While there are many different ways to attract hummingbirds to your garden, some may work better than others.

A Simple Ribbon Trick

If you’re want to try something easy that doesn’t require you to plant flowers or invest in a new feeder, try this simple hack.  It may just bring more feathered friends to your feeder. Secure a red ribbon (or several) to your feeder.  Basically, this could help catch hummingbirds’ attention and convince them to stop by your yard. Once there, they can enjoy the nectar and any other flowers you have to offer to feed their appetite. Perhaps they just didn’t notice your feeder while flying around.  Unquestionably, this hack can help get their attention, so they keep coming back.

Red Lovers

It’s become fairly common knowledge among avid bird lovers that red is one of the colors that draws hummingbirds in. This is due to the cones in their eyes, which allow them to see red and yellow well.  They undeniably seek these colors while finding food. Many flowers in these colors produce the nectar these birds need.  Nectar is a source that fuels their high-energy burn. While many other flower species can also produce this nectar, their sight brings them to the red florals first. This is why using red ribbons to your feeders and even around your yard can help.

So, Tie Red Ribbons to Attract Hummingbirds

You can tie a few pieces of red ribbon along the pole where your feeder is attached, or to other areas like the hanging chain. Avoid placing ribbons where they could cover the holes where the birds sip.  Pesky winds can blow these pieces of fabric onto them and deter feeding. Keep in mind when trying this that it doesn’t take away from the aesthetic of your garden.

In fact, you can use red ribbon that is attached via a bow or in a small knot, so it can blow in the wind.  Doing this can actually create an aesthetic effect that not only pulls in hummingbirds but also elevates your space. You may want to try different tactics, such as tying on nearby trees to see if that draws them in. You can also attach red ribbons to the surrounding area, especially if there are flowers that the hummingbirds can feed from.

Once they are acquainted with your yard, they will likely come back on their own. However, the red does help to initially alert them to your space. If you have more than one hummingbird feeder in your yard, make sure to keep a good distance between each.  Also, keep the ribbons close to each feeder rather than placing everything in a general area.  These birds can be territorial and don’t always share their food well.

Source:  housedigest.com©

(Article edited for space)

Photo credit:  © Katie Dragon/Shutterstock

Related:  These Three Plants Will Attract Hummingbirds to Your Garden – TUTORING YOU

16 Perennials That Attract Hummingbirds to Your Garden! – TUTORING YOU

King Charles talks to his plants – a practice rooted in ancient animistic traditions,

Some ancient civilizations, like the Greeks and Romans, held beliefs that plants responded to care, attention, or even words. However, the concept became more popularized in the 17th and 18th centuries, when natural philosophers began experimenting more methodically.

For example, Jan Ingenhousz, known for his work on photosynthesis, also observed plant responses to light and environment. People started noticing that plants could react to stimuli in ways that seemed almost communicative.

Today, talking to your greenery, whether it’s a small collection of indoor plants on your windowsill or rare flowers in a royal garden, is a common practice, and it comes with approval from the experts.

‘To some, the King’s habit of speaking to plants has seemed quaint, even peculiar. Yet in his film, it celebrates his lifelong philosophy: that small acts of attention reflect a broader responsibility to nurture the natural world,’ comments Tenielle Jordison, a garden’s content editor at Homes & Gardens.

‘Beyond the garden, talking to plants can have real benefits for people. Tending and speaking to greenery can reduce stress, lift mood, and encourage mindfulness. It’ a simple way to reconnect with the natural world, nurturing our wellbeing, even if it’s just a small house plant.’

There’s never a bad time to buy a new plant, but in the light of this royal news, we can’t resist another one.

King Charles’ lifelong habit of talking to plants may once have seemed eccentric, but in today’s world, it’s a reminder that small acts of care – whether in a royal garden or on a windowsill – can connect us to nature and to ourselves. Perhaps it’s time to add a new plant to your own collection.

Source:  msn.com

Photo credit:  GettyImages

Plant These Low-Maintenance Flowers to Attract More Cardinals to Your Yard

Attracting Cardinals

Though cardinals aren’t rare in most of the United States, their vibrant colors still make them an exciting species to spot. Cardinals are common throughout much of the eastern and midwestern states. Cardinals don’t migrate, if you live in one of these regions, you can spot the males’ easily.  Their iconic red plumage against the pure white snow of winter is pure heaven. Also, you can enjoy their vibrant feathers during the summer.

However, that’s only the case if you know how to lure them into your yard. If you want to spot these feathered friends more regularly, plant some low-maintenance flowers around your space.

Seeds over berries

Its diet is varied and consists of seeds, insects, and berries. However, to lead them into your yard, you don’t have to fill it with caterpillars, spiders, and centipedes.  Instead, focus on planting specific flowering plants so the birds can snack on the seeds. While you could also include berry bushes in your space, these birds seem to prefer seeds over berries. Filling your backyard with the food’s cardinals love the most is almost guaranteed to make it the go-to spot, especially in the winter when food sources are more scarce.

Verbena (Verbenaceae)

©Flower_Garden/Shutterstock
Verbena is an annual flower that prefers full sun and well-draining soil. Many people love having this flower in their yard because of its vibrant colors, pleasant fragrance, and the ease of maintenance. This plant produces clusters of small purple, white, or pink flowers, with some varieties growing between 6 and 18 inches tall. Cardinals like the flowers and small seeds of this plant, so this provides a great food source for these birds from the spring to the fall.

Sunflower (Helianthus)

Sunflowers can brighten your property with their vibrant yellow petals. Plant them in an area of the yard that gets full, direct sun for six to eight hours a day in well-draining soil.

 

Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron Tulipifera)

The tulip poplar is a deciduous tree that can grow up to 90 feet tall and that blooms yellow or orange flowers in the springtime. Once the tree is established, it needs little maintenance

 

Flowering Dogwood (Cornus Florida)

Dogwood trees bloom beautiful white or pale pink flowers in April and May. They prefer to be planted in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. They’ll need water during the summer when they’re actively flowering.

 

Purple Majesty Millet (Pennisetum Glaucum)

©Tracy Immordino/Shutterstock

Purple majesty millet will add a little bit of drama to your garden. The plant can grow 3 to 5 feet tall with dark purple leaves and 1-foot long seed spikes. This plant prefers full sun and can be drought tolerant but grows best with weekly waterings. It’s the seeds of these summer and fall-blooming flowers that attract cardinals to your yard.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea)

The purple coneflower is a perennial that can grow between 2 and 5 feet tall and prefers full sun for at least six to eight hours a day. They’re easy to care for and only need about an inch of watering each week. Cardinals are attracted to these summer-blooming flowers because of their seeds and the insects like aphids that are often attracted to the plant, as both provide a food source for the birds.

 

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum Majus)

Gardeners love nasturtiums because the flowers bloom a vibrant color and have a pretty fragrance. Most nasturtiums are annuals, and there are both climbing and bush varieties available. Plant these flowers where they can get full sun for at least six hours and in well-draining soil, and give them regular weekly waterings. Cardinals love the seeds of these flowers, so they’ll be attracted to nasturtium as a food source.

 

Hawthorn (Crataegus)

Hawthorn trees produce small and fragrant white flowers between March and June. Plant a Hawthorn tree in your yard where it will receive full sun in order to produce its signature blooms.

 

Safflower (Carthamus Tinctorius)

©Sojibul/Shutterstock

 

Safflowers are spiky orange and yellow flowers that will add plenty of texture to your garden. Plant them in well-draining soil and in a place where they can receive full sun. The flowers are low maintenance because they are resistant to drought, so moderate watering is all this plant needs. Cardinals love the seeds of safflowers, so planting this food source will surely bring them to your yard.

 

Sweet Pea (Lathyrus Odoratus)

The delicate and colorful sweet pea flower will be a beautiful addition to your garden. They’re low maintenance as long as you plant these flowers in full sun and in well-draining soil to ensure that they thrive. Allow the flowers to receive at least six hours of direct sun, and soak them two or three times a week to keep them watered. Cardinals are attracted to the flowers’ seeds as a food source.

Source:  housedigest.com©

Related:  Garden Plants with Seeds that Birds Love – TUTORING YOU

6 Herbs that Actually Grow Better in Pots

 

The Best Herbs for Easy Container Growing

These six herbs will actually perform better in a pot than in the ground, but before planting, check that they are compatible with your USDA hardiness zone. If not, you can always grow outdoors in summer and move indoors over winter. Together, they offer a versatile, kitchen-ready mix that works across a wide range of cuisines.

1. Mint

Mint is a delightful culinary herb with many uses, both fresh and dried. It’s tolerant of neglect and hard to kill. This makes mint incredibly easy to grow, but also a menace in the garden, as it spreads very aggressively by runners. Planting mint in the ground can lead to a quick takeover of beds and even lawns.

Instead, grow mint in pots. This keeps the rapidly spreading plants contained and allows you to grow them on patios, balconies, and porches. It’s much quicker to start with plants, like Strawberry mint from Burpee, which is perfect for dropping into cocktails and sprinkling over ice cream.

Once your mint plant is four to six inches tall, start harvesting it regularly by pinching off stems just above nodes. This will give you a regular harvest and encourage branching and dense growth. Mint is hardy in zones 3 through 11.

2. Basil

Basil is a culinary staple. In the garden, it requires warm weather and soil that tends towards dry. Soggy soil can kill a basil plant quickly. It’s this factor that makes container growing ideal for basil. It gives you better control over soil moisture and drainage.

Basil is only hardy in zones 10 through 11, but it grows fast as a summer annual. You’ll have time to grow several rounds of basil plants by succession planting seeds every couple of weeks.

You can harvest basil leaves by pinching as soon as the plant has several sets of mature leaves. Pinch off flowers as soon as you see them appear to keep the leaves fresh and tasty.

3. Rosemary

This Mediterranean herb needs dry soil to thrive. Like basil, rosemary will deteriorate rapidly in soggy, poorly draining soil. It will thrive in a large container with a light potting mix and excellent drainage. By growing rosemary in a pot, you can be sure you don’t overwater the plant and risk getting its roots soggy.

It’s best to start with plants, as it takes a while to grow from seed. This Arp rosemary from Burpee is one of the most fragrant varieties going.

You can start snipping off stems once the plant is large and full. Choose newer growth for cooking, but remove any type of growth to use as seasonal décor and fragrance.

Rosemary is hardy in zones 8 through 11. If you live in a colder climate, bring your pot in for winter and enjoy this woody shrub year-round.

4. Thyme

Thyme can be tricky to grow in the ground if you don’t get the soil or water right. Don’t even attempt it if your garden soil is heavy or clay-based. Instead, grow thyme in pots. As with rosemary, use a light mix and ensure your pot drains very well.

Because it grows low, thyme can be grown with taller herbs in the same container, as long as they have similar growing conditions. It takes a while to start from seed, so buy young plants, like summer thyme from Plant Addicts, or try a more unusual variety like lemon thyme.

Once established, start trimming off stems of thyme to use the tasty leaves in the kitchen. Thyme’s hardiness varies depending on the type and includes zones 4 through 10.

5. Parsley

This versatile kitchen herb isn’t hard to grow, but it can be a little particular about soil and moisture. By growing parsley in a pot, you have better control over these factors. Use a rich soil that stays consistently moist but not soggy. Parsley is hardy in zones 4 through 9, so you can keep it outdoors in winter or bring it in, depending on your region.

Flat or Curly

The main choice of parsley is between curly and flat leaf.

Curly parsley is primarily used as a decorative garnish. Its mild taste can often go undetected but gives dishes a pop of color

Flat-leaf parsley is a versatile herb that can be used as both a seasoning during the cooking process and as a garnish.

To harvest parsley, snip off outer stems at the base. Leave the inner stems intact so that the plant keeps producing new growth. Do harvest regularly, though, as this will promote more new growth.

6. Chives

Chives have a mild onion flavor that complements many savory dishes when snipped fresh from a kitchen garden. Suitable for zones 3 through 9, this tasty herb is also very appropriate for containers, with its tidy, clump-forming growth.

You can grow potted chives indoors or outside.  When grown outside, the edible purple flowers will attract pollinators.

To harvest chives, snip stems an inch or two (2.5 to 5.0 cm) from the base. Harvest regularly to encourage more growth.

Source:  Gardening Know How©

Related:  HERBS THAT GROW TOGETHER IN A POT – TUTORING YOU

Think twice before pulling that tree stump out of the ground

DIY or call an Expert?

If you’re dealing with a sizable tree stump in your yard, removing it completely is usually a pretty big job. Digging tree stumps out of the ground can require machinery and specialized equipment such as a backhoe or excavator.  Specifically, tools that are tough enough to tackle the stump, the former tree’s root system, and could also potentially damage your lawn. Similarly, pulling a stump out of your yard is not an easy task.   It can require heavy-duty equipment like winches and pulley systems, all used to tackle roots that can require more than 450 pounds of pressure to yank out of the soil. So, before you decide you want to pull a tree stump out, you might want to think twice.

Why remove it

There are plenty of reasons to remove tree stumps. For example, old stumps can attract pests or become a hazard for people and lawn mowers.  Also, they might even sprout new shoots as the tree attempts to grow again. However, if you’re hoping to avoid mistakes while removing a tree stump, the best way is to enlist professional help.  It will cost you, and it can be an expensive process. On average, homeowners pay anywhere from $195 to $609 for stump removal. Additionally, pricing is determined by the size of the stump in question (arborists typically charge $2 to $5 per diameter inch). That cost is enough to make you reconsider pulling a stump out of the ground, and it’s not the only potential drawback you’ll want to consider.

Stump removal is difficult and risky work. If you’re dealing with a sizable tree stump in your yard, removing it completely is usually a pretty big job.

After a tree is cut down, the roots sometimes continue to grow.  Chiefly bringing pests and diseases into your yard or contributing to soil instability leading to erosion and sinkholes. That’s why stump removal often calls for the removal of the tree’s underground root system as well. The roots will likely have to be dug up manually, which is a labor-intensive task. While doing this job, professionals also run the risk of harming other plant or tree roots in your yard. Buried utilities such as underground sewer pipes are also at risk.  If you DIY, you need to contact 811, the national before-you-dig service, to make sure the area where they plan to dig is clear.

The consequence

Of course, once that stump and its root system are out of your yard, you’ll likely be left with a large hole. Removing both tree stumps and their roots disturbs the soil, taking a good amount of entrapped soil within the roots out of the ground. This in turn impacts the topsoil and subsoil and how loosely or densely it’s packed. This may also change the nutrient content and soil’s ability to drain water. These changes, should they occur in your yard post stump removal, might affect how future plants grow in that same spot. That’s also why it’s recommended that you don’t plant anything new near the stump’s original spot immediately after removal.

DIY stump removal is also complicated

Having a professional arborist come and remove old tree stumps in your yard can be a costly and extensive adventure.  However, attempting DIY stump removal can also be complicated. In addition to requiring you to dig up an area of your lawn (depending on the removal method you choose), the tree stump removal process sometimes requires chemicals that can impact your soil. For fast DIY stump removal, chemical stump removers are often recommended because they’re affordable and less labor-intensive compared to grinding down the stump or attempting to pull it up yourself. However, these products can include high concentrations of salt, potassium nitrate, alkalis, and other ingredients.  These agents that alter your soil’s composition and impact how grass or plants grow in your yard.

Whichever method you choose — DIY or professional — removing a tree stump from your yard is a task you’ll want to think carefully about. The effort required, cost, and potential impacts to your lawn can all be more significant than you think. Plus, there are alternatives to stump removal you can consider that just might be simpler and involve less work. One solution is to repurpose old stumps into cool backyard features.

Source:  hunker.com©