Category: Gardening

Hunker.com promotes humane deterrents.  They state that while rabbits can be charming, they also pose a threat to gardens and decorative plants. They advise homeowners to use non-lethal methods such as removing tall grass, filling burrows with gravel, and installing two-foot-high chicken wire fences. These measures aim to make yards less inviting without harming the animals.

Also, many strongly scented or toxic plants—like lavender, mint, daffodils, alliums, sage, and marigolds—are effective at repelling rabbits due to their aroma, texture, or toxicity.

In addition to the above, here is a clear, evidence‑based breakdown of the most reliable rabbit‑resistant plants, grounded in the sources found:

 Top Plants That Repel Rabbits (Evidence‑Based)

1. Lavender

Rabbits dislike its strong fragrance, while pollinators love it.

2. Mint

Its pungent scent is a natural deterrent. (Grow in containers—it spreads aggressively.)

3. Daffodils

All parts of the plant are toxic to rabbits, making them one of the most reliable rabbit‑proof bulbs.

4. Alliums (Ornamental Onions)

Their onion‑like smell repels rabbits and they come in many sizes and colors.

5. Sage

Its leathery leaves and earthy aroma make it unappealing to rabbits.

6. Marigolds

Their strong scent repels rabbits and other pests, making them excellent companion plants.

Additional Rabbit‑Resistant Options

These plants are not rabbit‑proof, but rabbits tend to avoid them due to texture, bitterness, or scent:

• Astilbe – Rabbits dislike its foliage texture.
• Anise Hyssop – Strong anise scent repels rabbits.
• Other strong‑scented herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano (inferred from similar scent‑based deterrent patterns across sources).

 How to Use These Plants Strategically

To maximize protection:

• Create a perimeter of strongly scented plants (lavender, mint, sage, alliums).
• Interplant deterrents among vulnerable crops like lettuce, beans, or flowers rabbits love.
• Use toxic bulbs (daffodils, alliums) around garden beds as a natural barrier.
• Combine with physical barriers (like fencing) if rabbits are persistent. Sources note that hungry rabbits may still eat almost anything.

Why These Plants Work

Rabbits avoid plants that are:

• Strongly scented (lavender, mint, alliums)
• Toxic (daffodils)
• Tough, fuzzy, or leathery (sage, astilbe)
• Bitter‑tasting (many herbs)

These scents overwhelm their sensitive noses or simply taste unpleasant.

In addition, humane repellents, both store-bought and homemade, can be applied around vulnerable plants, with caution advised for vegetable gardens to ensure food safety. Common DIY repellents include garlic, red pepper, cayenne and soap flakes.

Related reading:

How to use cayenne pepper to protect your garden – TUTORING YOU

Quick facts

• Perennials are plants that grow back each year.
• Dividing or splitting a single perennial into multiple plants helps the plant perform better.
• After they are divided, there is more space for roots to grow and absorb nutrients and water.
• It can help manage the size of the plant.
• You will have more plants of the same kind to add to your garden when you split a perennial.
• Spring is the ideal time to divide

Why divide?

Fast growing plants often need to be divided in Spring to rejuvenate overgrown foliage and to stimulate new growth. Overgrown plants can be easy targets for disease.

The plants that spread rapidly can be controlled through regular divisions.  Also, this is a great way to get new plants for your garden without spending a dime!

Signs plants need to be divided

Unsightly plants that need to be divided become overgrown with dead, unappealing centers.  Their vigorous growth has sent them to places in your garden where they are not welcome!  They also have fewer flowers and are in overall poor health due to the plant depleting the fertility of the soil as it crowds itself.  Let the plant be the gauge, not a calendar

When to divide

• In general, most perennials need to be divided every 3 to 5 years.

• Spring is a great time for dividing. This is when you can do the least amount of irreparable damage. The plants are coming out of dormancy and are ready to grow.  However, some argue that specific plants respond to dividing better later in the growing season.

• The recommended time for Oriental Poppy, Peony and Siberian Iris is late July to early August, but spring is acceptable if that is the only time you can divide.

• Early spring bloomers: Divide after bloom and they have all season to anchor new roots and set buds for next spring.

• Summer-fall bloomers: Divide in spring and they too will set roots, bud and flower.

Source:  extension.illinois.edu©

Related:

When to Divide these Perennial’s

You might catch a butterfly or two in your garden on occasion but if you want to see butterflies more often, then one way to attract them is by having a butterfly puddler. It’s possible you may have never even heard of a butterfly puddler before and that’s because many people don’t really think about having one. It’s usually something you see more at a butterfly garden than a household but that doesn’t mean you can’t have one.

Ahead, we spoke with a butterfly entomologist about all things butterfly puddlers from what they are to how to make one at home.

According to Skye Bruce, PhD, butterfly entomologist and coordinator at Wisconsin Monarch Collaborative, a butterfly puddler is a shallow container or area filled with moist soil, sand, or gravel that offers essential nutrients like sodium and other minerals to butterflies. “Puddling” is a natural butterfly practice where groups of butterflies, usually males, gather around a puddle to drink.

“Puddlers supplement butterflies’ diets with nutrients they can’t get from nectar alone, especially sodium,” Dr. Bruce says. “Sodium and other micronutrients gathered during puddling are stored in the butterfly’s body and, in males, transferred to females during mating in what’s known as a nuptial gift, which may enhance reproductive success. These nutrients are particularly important for reproductive success and overall fitness.”

Although all butterflies can use a butterfly puddler, those belonging to the swallowtail family are more commonly attracted to them. This can include tiger swallowtails, white admirals and cabbage whites to name a few.

How to make a butterfly puddling

Looking to make a butterfly puddling for your garden? It’s pretty simple and only involves a few steps.

First, use a shallow dish or container, fill it with a mix of sand, soil, and compost, and keep it damp.

Next, Dr. Bruce recommends adding a pinch of salt or wood ash to enhance mineral content. “Flat stones or sticks can give butterflies or bees a dry perch while they drink [since they can’t land on water],” she says.

Lastly, place the butterfly puddler in a sunny, protected area if you can.

Do butterfly puddlers really work?

Yes, butterfly puddlers really work. It may take some time for butterflies to visit, but give it a few days and you’ll likely notice more butterflies than usual outside in your garden.

“Puddling areas serve as gathering points that can increase butterfly visibility and interaction in gardens,” says Dr. Bruce. It usually takes just one butterfly to signal to others to join.

Should a butterfly puddler be in the sun or shade?

In terms of location, Dr. Bruce says that the location of the butterfly puddler isn’t a make-or-break factor.

“On a cooler day or on a cool morning or evening, I would definitely say put it in the sun, because it helps butterflies warm up since they are cold blooded,” she says. “However, they love a dappled shade puddling spot too, especially on hotter days so placing it in the shade on hotter days will also help keep it from drying out as quickly as possible.”

You may also decide to put the butterfly puddler next to butterfly-attracting plants and nectar-rich flowers so they can feed on them.

At the end of the day, while puddling is fascinating and fun to observe, Dr. Bruce says the most meaningful action gardeners can take is planting native host plants.

“For example, monarch caterpillars only eat milkweed (Asclepias spp.), and other species have their own specific plant needs, and they will disappear without their host plants,” she says. “Habitat loss, not lack of puddlers, is the main threat to pollinators so prioritize plants first.”

Source:  Dengarden©

On a hot day, you’re likely to visit a pool or the beach to cool off. It’s the same for birds.   They’re looking for a place to chill, get a cool drink, and rest when the temperatures climb. A birdbath gives them just that, but first, they need to find it. If you want birds to flock to your birdbath, you need to plant the right flowers around it.

Planting salvia (Salvia spp.) is the secret to attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and other birds to your birdbath. Salvia is available in dozens of varieties.  Its blooms can range from deep purple to scarlet red to brilliant blue, colors that encourage more hummingbirds to visit your garden. The flowers of salvia aren’t just bright and eye-catching; they are also long-lasting and nectar rich.  This makes Salvia a gold mine for pollinators including birds and butterflies. Depending on the variety you choose, salvia can bloom throughout the spring or from the summer into the fall.   They offer food and shelter to pollinators for months on end. They’ll come for the food and stay for the pool!

Need some more convincing? While salvia will attract pollinators to your garden, it’s generally deer-resistant and doesn’t have serious problems with pests. Plus, depending on the variety you plant, you may be able to use its leaves in cooking. Sage (Salvia officinalis) and rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) are both members of the salvia family. Whatever variety you plant, expect the leaves to have a pleasant aroma, making your garden appealing not just for the birds and butterflies, but for you, too.

There are two ways to grow salvia, from seed or from transplants. You can start the plant from seed indoors or wait until the last frost has passed and plant directly in the soil outdoors. If starting with a seedling, plant it outdoors after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

To thrive in your garden, salvia needs two things: plenty of sun and good soil. The plants do best directly in the garden bed, rather than in containers. To improve your soil and make it more appealing to salvia, add sand or compost, which will also improve drainage. You’ll need to deadhead salvia, or remove spent blooms, as the season goes on to encourage the plant to keep flowering. Deadheading salvia keeps the flowers from going to seed.

To make your garden even more of a butterfly and bird magnet, create a welcoming environment for them, with pollinator-friendly flowers and habitat features. Calendula (Calendula officinalis), for example, attracts a variety of birds and pollinators to your yard. A patch of soil provides a place for ground-nesting birds to burrow while bee boxes provide a cozy home for pollinating bees.

Source:   Hunker.com©

Photo credit:  © Wirestock/Getty Images;

Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

Related:  What Soil Is Best for Salvias?  – TUTORING YOU

On a hot day, you’re likely to visit a pool or the beach to cool off. It’s the same for birds.   They’re looking for a place to chill, get a cool drink, and rest when the temperatures climb. A birdbath gives them just that, but first, they need to find it. If you want birds to flock to your birdbath, you need to plant the right flowers around it.

Planting salvia (Salvia spp.) is the secret to attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and other birds to your birdbath. Salvia is available in dozens of varieties.  Its blooms can range from deep purple to scarlet red to brilliant blue, colors that encourage more hummingbirds to visit your garden. The flowers of salvia aren’t just bright and eye-catching; they are also long-lasting and nectar rich.  This makes Salvia a gold mine for pollinators including birds and butterflies. Depending on the variety you choose, salvia can bloom throughout the spring or from the summer into the fall.   They offer food and shelter to pollinators for months on end. They’ll come for the food and stay for the pool!

Need some more convincing? While salvia will attract pollinators to your garden, it’s generally deer-resistant and doesn’t have serious problems with pests. Plus, depending on the variety you plant, you may be able to use its leaves in cooking. Sage (Salvia officinalis) and rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) are both members of the salvia family. Whatever variety you plant, expect the leaves to have a pleasant aroma, making your garden appealing not just for the birds and butterflies, but for you, too.

There are two ways to grow salvia, from seed or from transplants. You can start the plant from seed indoors or wait until the last frost has passed and plant directly in the soil outdoors. If starting with a seedling, plant it outdoors after the last frost, when soil temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

To thrive in your garden, salvia needs two things: plenty of sun and good soil. The plants do best directly in the garden bed, rather than in containers. To improve your soil and make it more appealing to salvia, add sand or compost, which will also improve drainage. You’ll need to deadhead salvia, or remove spent blooms, as the season goes on to encourage the plant to keep flowering. Deadheading salvia keeps the flowers from going to seed.

To make your garden even more of a butterfly and bird magnet, create a welcoming environment for them, with pollinator-friendly flowers and habitat features. Calendula (Calendula officinalis), for example, attracts a variety of birds and pollinators to your yard. A patch of soil provides a place for ground-nesting birds to burrow while bee boxes provide a cozy home for pollinating bees.

Source:   Hunker.com©

Photo credit:  © Wirestock/Getty Images;

Wirestock Creators/Shutterstock

Related:  What Soil Is Best for Salvias?  – TUTORING YOU

Many homeowners are expected to downsize part of their lawn this year and replace it with small plantings to attract birds and butterflies. Mowing, weeding, spraying, and watering a lawn requires plenty of time and resources each week! They’ll reduce the time spent on lawn maintenance, some 20-plus weeks each growing season and the result will be a colorful bed or border.  In addition, that will provide much more enjoyment for them as well as benefits for wildlife.

Benefits of Shrinking Your Lawn

Shrinking your lawn comes with numerous perks that go beyond just making things look good. Going for a more sustainable route not only saves you a load of time and effort on lawn upkeep but also cuts down on the amount of yard waste you need to deal with. According to the EPA, 30 to 60% of urban fresh water is used to water lawns each year. Given that grass needs two to three times more water compared to a mixed, sustainable landscape, you’ll notice a big drop in water use.

You’ll rely less on synthetic fertilizers and herbicides, cutting down on potential health risks. Plus, this eco-friendly move creates a habitat where native flowers and shrubs become the VIP spots for all sorts of critters, from birds to essential pollinators. By mixing things up with different plants, you’re not just making your place look good; you’re giving wildlife a cozy hangout. Swapping out your massive lawn for native plants boosts your home’s curb appeal and amps up its resale value thanks to the appeal of low-maintenance landscaping.

There’s a common misconception that native plants look untidy compared to the classic lawn. But this couldn’t be further from the truth. With proper planning and design, native plant landscapes can be just as elegant and visually pleasing as traditional lawns. The transition to native landscaping is not just a cosmetic change but a meaningful step towards environmental stewardship. It’s time for homeowners to rethink the American lawn and embrace a more sustainable, eco-friendly approach to landscaping.

Lawn Reduction Strategies

Transforming your traditional lawn into a more environmentally friendly space doesn’t have to be an overwhelming task. It begins with a critical assessment and strategic planning. Here are ways you can get started:

Conduct a Lawn Assessment:

Take a walk around your lawn and look at it with a critical, discerning eye. Observe and identify areas of your lawn that are seldom used or are purely ornamental. These areas are prime candidates for replacement with more sustainable options.

Evaluate Foot Traffic Patterns:

Pay attention to how people move across your lawn. Are there certain paths that are frequently trodden? These areas might be better served with permanent pathways. Replacing these high-traffic turf areas with materials like stone, pavers, or even mulch can reduce lawn size while adding an aesthetic element to your landscape.

Start Small and Focus on Problem Areas:

The idea of reducing your lawn size can seem daunting, so it’s advisable to start small. Begin with areas that are typically problematic for grass growth, such as steep slopes or heavily shaded zones. These areas often require more maintenance and can struggle to support healthy turf grass.

Implement Gradual Changes:

Lawn reduction doesn’t have to happen overnight. Gradually replacing sections of your lawn allows you to adjust to the new look and understand the care requirements of your new plants. This phased approach is less overwhelming and gives you the opportunity to learn and adapt as you go.,

Source:  westcreek.org©

Growing plants vertically has a number of benefits. First and foremost, growing vertically maximizes space, allowing those with even the smallest gardens to produce more food with a more diverse group of crops.

Vertical planting also has the advantage of lessening the chances that crops are affected by disease or pests since the foliage and fruit is kept off of the ground. It is also easier to visually inspect the plants for disease or insect infestation when they are grown upright, enabling the gardener to quickly treat the plants.

Suitable for almost any plant

Vertical gardening is visually appealing. It adds dimension and height and provides shade for not only the gardener, but also for other plants. Plants can be grown vertically directly in the garden or in a container. Almost any type of vegetable can be grown vertically provided the container is deep enough and the vertical structure is strong enough to hold the weight of the plants.

Locate in an area suited to vertical gardening. It can be a space in the veggie garden that is near fencing or on the wall of a balcony. The area must have at least 6 hours of full sun.

What type of support to use?

Determine what type of support to use for the vertically growing plants. It can be the aforementioned existing fence, or trellises, tripods, pyramids, wire cages or walls.

The structure can be temporary, moveable, or permanent and stationary (such as the fence, wall or an arbor). Even living plants, such as sunflowers or corn, can act as trellising systems.

Sunlight

If you are going to grow plants vertically in the garden proper, situate the trellising system on the north or east side so it won’t block the sun on other plants. If you are going to attach a support system to a wall, be sure to leave a space between the wall and the trellis to allow for air circulation.

Avoid damaging the crops

Vertically growing plants can be very heavy, depending on the plants. Tomatoes get very heavy as they fruit, but peas are quite lightweight.

Be sure to set supports deeply into the ground and use sturdy wire or garden twine to attach the plants. Secure the support system before you plant to avoid damaging the crop.

What to plant?

Once the trellis has been installed securely, it’s time to decide what to plant. Choose crops that are suited for your USDA hardiness zone, and if growing beans or the like, be sure to select vining varieties not bush.

Any vegetable plant that has a vining habit is suitable for growing vertically, as are many smaller sized or slender veggies or fruit. Some that do well grown vertically include:

• Cucumbers
• Beans
• Peas
• Zucchini
• Miniature pumpkins and gourds
• Small squash
• Indeterminate tomatoes

Bigger fruit = extra support

Even large winter squash, like butternut, can be grown vertically. They will just need extra support for the fruit. Use cloth or old pantyhose wrapped around the fruit and tie to the vertical structure. Really, anything soft that you can make a sling out of – rags, towels, old sheets, etc. all make excellent slings for the growing fruit.

More advantages!

Vertical growing will not only save garden space, diversify crops, and reduce the incidence of disease and pests, but lessens the amount of maintenance needed in the garden. It also makes it easier and more efficient to water the plants by allowing the gardener to water directly at the roots.

Harvesting also becomes less of a chore; no more hunching over or crawling on your knees. Vertical trellising results in earlier crops because the plants are healthier and less prone to disease or insects and also because vertically grown plants are more evenly exposed to the sun, a boon for any gardener.

Source:  promixgardening.com©

photo credit:  homesandgardens.com©

No matter where you live, being water wise is the smart way to garden. And if you live in drought stricken or prone areas, it’s a must. I love gorgeous hydrangea, and roses are amazing.  However, there are plenty of flowering drought resistant perennials that don’t suck down our water resources. These ten no fail drought tolerant perennials for low water gardens fit the bill.  They are gorgeous as stand-alone plants and come back every year! (Remember, perennials may die back to their roots in a cold winter, but they come back in the spring).

We have a high desert garden, so we have either grown most of these drought tolerant perennials ourselves or have had direct experience with them. So, watch for our tips throughout this article to help them look their best and grow to their potential! These plants can be grown in most areas of the U.S. Here is some inspiration to get you started, our top plant picks!

This photo by ‘BHG‘shows yellow Yarrow and purple Coneflower in the foreground, with blue Russian Sage in the back.

Drought Tolerant Plants

Yarrow (Achillea) Zones 3-8

Yarrow has long been one of our fav drought tolerant plants because of its strong architectural feel, long bloom time, low water needs and attractive, feathery foliage. There are many varieties, including ones in pink, red, coral and white, but our favorite is still the bold yellow “Coronation Gold’. Grows to 3 feet, is a great cut and dried flower, and brightens up any garden. Blooms all summer, full sun. Very easy to grow.

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea) Zones 3-8

Purple Coneflower is one of the most popular perennials around thanks to some amazing new hybrids. Minis from one foot all the way up to four-foot-tall varieties exist.  Colors include purple to white to green, and every sunset color in between. They generally bloom from mid-summer through fall, though some start as early as June. Full sun. Butterflies and birds love them! Great cut flower. There are too many varieties to choose a favorite, so we will do our best by first recommending a dwarf variety from ‘Burpee’, “Pow Wow White “. This variety is smaller at 18 inches, can be used in garden bed or containers, and has the most incredible pure white color, perfect for the vase!

We also love this large, free flowering variety called “Sombrero Baja Burgundy “. This variety grows to 2 feet, flowers all summer and makes one of the best cut flowers. Extremely heat resistant! This is a butterfly magnet too! 

Russian Sage (Perovskia) Zones 4-9

We love Russian Sage and grow it quite prolifically in our gardens, and it is a tough, beautiful blue plant that should be a backbone of any drought tolerant landscaping. However, take note of the word “prolific”. The species can get quite large, quite fast, and you might find yourself cutting it back more often than you would like. (Which should be done in later fall, to within 1 foot of the ground). However, this dwarf variety “Peek-a Blue” lets you have all the advantages of this plant, with a little less of the only downside. Looks amazing next to Black Eyed Susan or with yellow Yarrow. Full sun, to mostly sunny. Blooms mid-summer through fall.

TGG Tip  We found that if you cut it back by two thirds, it will quickly rebound and give you another bloom flush by late summer.

Ornamental Grass

Ornamental grasses vary a lot, from thirsty sedges to drought tolerant fountain grass. Our pick for today is a fountain grass (Pennisetum) “Hameln”. Well behaved and neatly mounded with fine strappy foliage.  This grass grows to 2 feet and sends up stalks of white plumes in early-mid summer. This drought tolerant perennial grass is an easy grower in full sun, and loves a hot, dry spot. This variety does not reseed. Zones 5-9. What’s not to love!

Butterfly Bush (Buddleia) Zones 5-9

Ok, a lot of you are going to write us and tell us how this plant is a devil plant, sent to clog the streams and invade the ecosystem. First of all, if any plant is invasive to the point of being a danger to your community, obviously, don’t plant it. But for many areas, especially more arid ones in the west, butterfly bush is an amazing landscape plant that can offer substantial size and bloom in just one season. The butterflies and hummingbirds love it, and it’s GORG in bloom. And it is an important source of nectar.  So, step one, check with your local nursery to find out if its a pest in your area. Then, make sure you plant a cultivar, not the species. You can even cut back the flowers before they go to seed to prevent spreading. Our choice? We love “Miss Molly” for its almost red blooms.

TGG Tip: These grow to 6 feet, but in late winter, they need to be cut back to 1-2 feet from the ground.   Trust me, by June, you will never know, and it will repay you with a healthier plant with better blooms.

Coreopsis (Verticillata) Zones 3-9

Coreopsis is a happy and sunny daisy like flower for the garden, fine with hot, dry spots and blooming from spring through fall. Though several cultivars exist, including a pink one, we love “Early Sunrise” for its bright yellow, double blooms. Full sun to part sun, 18 inches tall. Deer resistant too! This one has a special place in my heart! It was the very first perennial I ever grew, and the number of flowers you get is amazing.

TGG Tip: Instead of having to deadhead the old blooms one at a time, coreopsis will take a shearing back of one third of the plant with garden shears, then will quickly rebloom.

Beardtongue (Penstemon) Zones 5-9

Penstemon is a native wildflower, available in many cultivars in red, blues and pinks. A tubular flower over semi evergreen foliage makes this a winner in the drouth resistant garden.  It has won its share of coveted awards as well. Full to part sun, it likes well drained soil and blooms all summer long. 18 inches to 2 1/2 feet high depending on variety.   You will find that hummingbirds can’t resist this beauty! Our favorite is “Carillo Red.” We’re guessing you didn’t realize there were so many gorgeous perennials for low water landscaping, right?

Stonecrop (Sedum) Zones 4-9

Sedum is a drought tolerant perennial with fleshy leaves that tolerates low water landscaping well.   Their flowers are star shaped beauties that cover the plants late summer through fall. There are two basic types, creeping sedums that make amazing ground covers, and upright sedums that bring some freshness to the late summer garden. Upright varieties can remain well into early winter for four season interest, and the birds love them! Full sun to part sun.  Our choice is the old favorite “Autumn Joy” with a flat pink flowerhead, it grows to 2 feet. The flowers slowly turn to rust as the season progresses, and this looks amazing with ornamental grasses in the fall.

“Autumn Joy”

Wormwood (Artemisia) Zones 4-9

Wormwood is one of those near perfect drought resistant plants, though its grown mainly for its foliage. Its tolerant of low water, poor soil and high humidity. Wormwood’s ferny, grayish green leaves are the perfect backdrop for any flowering plant. Once established, needs very little additional water, and very pest resistant. Full sun to part shade, we love “Powis Castle” that grows into a mound to 3 feet high and wide. Aromatic.

TGG Tip: Flower stalks are insignificant, cut off any that appear. Photo from ‘Knibb Design ‘.

Wand Flower (Gaura) Zones 5-9

Gaura is one of our new favorite drought tolerant perennials.  It’s being used in our high-end gardens as elegant yet modern pops of color. Wand flower is aptly named, as these butterfly shaped flowers are held up to 3 feet high on long wand like stems all summer. Needs good winter drainage. Puts down a tap root, so make sure you are happy with their placement before they get established. “Whirling Butterflies” is a mostly white variety with a touch of red on the sepal, but we love “Siskiyou Pink”. Full sun to mostly sunny, the hummingbirds and butterflies love these drought resistant plants!

“Whirling Butterflies”

I hope you can find a way to make a garden gorgeous with these drought tolerant perennials for low water gardens. 

Image Credits: Bluestone, Creative Landscapes, BHG, BHG, Bluestone, Wayside, White Flower Farm, Knibb Design, Bluestone