Tag: Gardening & Landscaping

As the calendar inches closer and closer to spring, so does the promise of seedlings at your local garden center. Even those gardeners who have already started their seeds in January keep an eye out for healthy seedlings at the store. It’s easy to see why seedlings are so beneficial. All the work of germination is finished and root development has already begun. When the seedlings come home, they just need to be planted in the garden. However, there are several plants you should think twice about buying before you decide to plant them in your garden as seedlings.

All plants can be grown as seedlings, but that does not mean all of them should. There are many types of vining plants, root vegetables, and flowers that should not be planted as seedlings. Several are susceptible to transplant shock, which occurs when the roots are too sensitive to be moved from one environment to the other. Transplant-shocked plants can fail to grow further during a season, and may even die off.

In other cases, it is just easier to start from seed because the plants prefer it and grow faster as a result. And since the vine, root, and flower categories are vast, breaking down which specific types are ones you should not purchase as seedlings is important, should you ever want to plant any of these in your garden.

Zinnia

Whether you’re using them as a border plant to ward off rabbits or growing them for purely visual purposes, you cannot go wrong with beautiful zinnia (Zinnia elegans) flowers. That is, unless you purchase them as seedlings. 

Like several other flowers on this list, zinnias have delicate roots that easily suffer from transplant shock. Instead, zinnias much prefer to be started and grown to completion from seeds. You can directly sow them into the ground, but zinnia flowers are also exceptionally tolerant of container gardening. So long as you do not move them or disturb their roots in any way, these flowers will grow happily.

Cosmos

In general, it is cheaper to purchase seed rather than seedlings. This is true whether you’re looking to create a crop garden of vegetables, or a flower garden filled with colorful varieties like cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus). These flowers are very affordable as seeds and grow quickly in a wide variety of different soils. 

These traits make them rather incompatible for seedling purchase, because the roots continue to grow inside the containers and can often be root bound upon removal. Root bound plants often have little to no soil, dry roots, and aren’t often able to accept water and nutrients as a result.

Nasturtium

Though they are very resilient when fully grown and established, nasturtium flowers (Tropaeolum majus) have super sensitive root systems that do not like to be transplanted. They are just as likely to get transplant shock as any of the others on this list. 

You can directly sow them into the ground, or start them in biodegradable containers that will decompose into the earth as the flowers grow. This greatly reduces the risk of transplant shock, and allows you to get a head start on your nasturtiums if you live in a colder climate.

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Source: Hunker.com

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Are you thinking of adding vegetables to your container garden this season? Some vegetables actually grow better in pots or containers than others. In this article, gardening expert Vijai Pandian, shares his favorite vegetable varieties to add to your container garden this season!

Source: University of Wisconsin-Madison©

Photo by hortzone.com

Granny pods are detached tiny homes that can be built or installed in a backyard or elsewhere on a property close to a larger home, allowing an aging loved one to be close to those who are helping care for them, while still maintaining some independence and privacy for everyone. You can find many prefab home models for sale (new or pre-owned) that include a bathroom and everything they’ll need (more on that below!). No matter what home style you go with, its proximity means Granny will be close enough to pop over to join the grandkids for a craft project, a movie night, or a homemade cake baking session any time. Win and win? We think so.

What Is a Granny Pod?

A granny pod is a modified guest house that allows caregivers close proximity to aging loved ones. They are also called ADUs, or accessory dwelling units, and are designed with safety and accessibility top of mind (for example: slip-resistant floors, wide doorways, and rounded countertops). Some versions offer high-tech medical extras, other models are foldable, and most can be built in a reasonable amount of time with help from handy friends who know their way around a toolbox.

Where Can You Buy (or Rent) a Granny Pod?

Whether a DIY cabin kit from Amazon or a customized, pre-fabricated tiny home, options for granny pods are more plentiful than ever. Depending on your wants and needs, you can choose from a variety of home styles and floor plans. And, it’s completely up to you if you prefer to assemble yourself or hire a pro.

Bungalow-like on the outside and hotel suite-like on the inside, these structures include up to 440 square feet of living space, a kitchenette, a bed (or separate bedroom), and bathroom. Many of these portable accessible tiny homes are similar to a hospital room, providing customers options for standard safety features such as hand railings, defibrillators, first aid supplies, lighted floorboards, and a soft floor to minimize injury from falls. Among other optional features, double French doors can accommodate a wheelchair and other hospital equipment, if needed.

Along with online retailers such as Amazon, businesses such as WheelPad and Cottage Depot offer free-standing dwellings designed to be installed in the backyard behind the main residence (zoning laws permitting, of course) that can be purchased or leased. The firm FabCab specializes in modern-style homes for aging in place, and both interior and exterior spaces of their homes get the universal design treatment, a philosophy that all environments should work for all ages and abilities. Accessibility is considered in every space, from bathrooms to outdoor patios.

Are Granny Pods Legal?

Typically these small dwellings are hooked up to the main home’s existing sewer, water, and power lines, so you’ll need to obtain the necessary building approvals required by local agencies. And, as previously mentioned, zoning laws in your area may have rules regarding the amount of land that can be covered by a structure. Check to make sure all intended uses of the cottage have been cleared before purchasing, including homeowner association agreements and proximity to historic districts, wetlands, or parks.

How Much Does a Granny Pod Cost?

Depending on the type of dwelling you choose, the estimated cost will likely run between $100,000 to $250,000, Carolyn McClanahan, a financial planner at Life Planning Partners in Jacksonville, Florida, told CNBC. Depending on how many years the pod is used, the price could pay off, as the median cost of assisted living care is $5,190 a month in 2025, while skilled nursing home care ranges from $8,669 to $9,733 a month, according to A Place for Mom.

Source: countryliving.com©

Photo by medium.com©

After waiting out the cold winter months, your green thumb is probably itching to get back into the soil. But before you pull on your garden gloves, here are a few signs to look for that indicate when to start planting a garden.

Last Frost Date

The cooperative extension service in your area (connected to your state’s land grant university) tracks the first and last frost dates each season to determine an average day for both. The average first and last frost dates are key indicators of when to plant. Cool-weather crops, such as spinach, peas, and radishes, go in about three weeks before your average last frost date. Wait until after the final frost to plant warm-weather vegetables and herbs, such as tomatoes, peppers, and basil. In the fall, you count backward from the first frost date to determine when to plant more cool-weather crops.

Workable Soil

In many areas of the U.S., the ground in spring is frozen and/or soggy. When the soil has defrosted and it is dry enough to crumble in your hands, you can begin working out your vegetable garden layout plans and spacing. Many cool-weather plants can go in as soon as the soil is workable.

Rising Nighttime Temperatures

Even when some of the days are warming up, overnight temperatures can still drop into the high 30s and low 40s—too cold for warm-season garden vegetables and herbs to grow or even survive. Cold-tolerant plants can go into your garden when the temps stay above 45 degrees F at night. Hold off until nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees F to put in warm-season vegetables and herbs.

Increasing Sunlight Hours

Observe your garden beds in the morning and evening to see when sunlight starts and stops shining on them. Leafy plants such as greens and most herbs need about six to eight hours of sunlight a day to be productive. Crops that bear fruit, including tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers, require more than 10 hours of daylight during the peak growing season. Build your garden plans around when the plants get sufficient light to grow and thrive.

Nature Clues

Phenology is the study of the timing and cyclical patterns of events in the natural world. These phenomena have become the source of tried-and-true folk wisdom that can help you determine when to plant your garden. For instance, you can sow seeds of radishes and cool-season greens when crocuses begin blooming in your area. Plant peas, onion sets, and lettuce after you see forsythia flowering, but wait until the daffodils open to put in half-hardy vegetables such as beets, carrots, and chard. Look for dandelions to bloom before planting potatoes and start bush beans when you see apple trees in blossom. Move tomato starts to the garden when lilies-of-the-valley flower but wait until the bearded irises open for peppers and eggplant.

Overcast Days

While your garden plants need lots of sun to grow and thrive, the best conditions for putting them in the ground are cloudy with a sprinkle of rain. This helps the transplants to settle in and begin to draw up moisture through their roots before the bright sun beats down on them. Watch the weather forecast and look for a day that will be overcast or even drizzly to plant your garden.

Seed Packets and Plant Tags

If you’re a beginner at gardening, the pros at Burpee make it easy for you to know when to plant. On every seed packet and plant tag from Burpee, you’ll see guidance on the ideal time to sow or transplant the varieties you’ve selected. Burpee’s Garden-Ready Plants are even simpler because they are shipped to you when it’s time to put them in your beds or containers.

You’ll find a wide range of products to help you launch your garden and all the information you need in Burpee’s Guide to Getting Started.

Source: burpee.com/garden-guide©

Natural pest control, quieter nights, and what experts say makes a yard owl-friendly. ©Image license via Canva

Seeing an owl in your yard feels magical, but it’s not just luck. These quiet hunters are selective about where they settle, and small choices around your home can matter. Many people don’t realize how close owls already live to suburban areas.

Beyond the wonder factor, owls play a practical role. They help control rodents naturally, often reducing the need for traps or chemicals. When conditions are right, an owl may quietly adopt your yard as part of its routine.

Attracting owls isn’t about forcing wildlife closer. It’s about creating a safe space that fits their instincts. When that happens, the results can be fascinating and helpful.

The First Thing Owls Look for Is Quiet

Owls don’t just wander into any yard. They notice patterns most people miss, especially noise and nighttime disruption. Bright lights, constant motion, and loud activity after dark signal danger rather than opportunity. A yard that settles down at night feels safer to them.

Why Darkness Matters More Than Most People Think

Owls rely on darkness to hunt effectively. Excessive outdoor lighting can disrupt their vision and make prey harder to spot. Even well-intended security lights can quietly push owls away without you realizing it.

Old Trees Are Like Real Estate Listings for Owls

Mature trees offer exactly what owls want: height, cover, and stability. Dead limbs, cavities, and thick branches create perfect roosting spots. To an owl, an old tree isn’t messy—it’s valuable infrastructure.

The Role of Prey You Didn’t Realize You Were Hosting

Owls don’t come for bird feeders or water features. They come for mice, voles, and small mammals already living nearby. If prey exists, owls notice quickly.

Why Open Space Matters as Much as Shelter

Owls hunt in open areas where they can swoop low and strike quickly. Lawns, meadows, and clearings near cover are ideal. Dense landscaping everywhere makes hunting inefficient.

A balanced yard matters. When open space connects to trees or fence lines, owls gain both visibility and escape routes. It’s about flow, not perfection.

Nest Boxes Can Help, But Only If They’re Right

©Image license via Canva

Owl boxes work best when placed thoughtfully. Height, orientation, and location all matter. A poorly placed box can sit unused for years, while a good one may attract attention fast.

Boxes near open hunting areas and away from heavy activity perform better. They supplement natural cavities, not replace them. Think of them as invitations, not guarantees.

How Owls Slowly Test a New Yard

Owls don’t move in overnight. They observe from a distance, using nearby trees or poles to scout. Repeated flyovers often come before regular visits.

This testing phase can last weeks. Consistency matters more than sudden changes. When conditions stay stable, owls grow comfortable enough to include your yard in their routine.

The Moment People Realize an Owl Has Moved In

Most people don’t see the owl first. They hear it. A soft hoot at dusk or a sudden silence among rodents is often the clue. Activity shifts quietly.

Owls rarely announce themselves. Once present, they blend into the landscape. That subtlety is part of what makes the experience feel special rather than intrusive.

What Changes After Owls Become Regular Visitors

Rodent activity often drops, sometimes dramatically. Yards feel calmer at night. People report fewer sightings of pests without doing anything extra.

Owls don’t eliminate problems instantly, but they create balance. Their presence reflects an ecosystem working as it should, without constant human intervention.

Why Attracting Owls Is About Coexisting, Not Controlling

Owls aren’t decorations or pets. They choose where to live. The goal isn’t to lure them, but to allow space for them to exist naturally.

When a yard supports owls, it usually supports many other species too. The reward isn’t just seeing an owl. It’s knowing your space fits into something bigger.

Source: msn.com©

When Poison Ivy Hits Close to Home

Staten Island resident Susan Scharff needed steroids after touching poison ivy vines in Clove Lake Park, according to CBS New York. Kansas State expert Cynthia Domenghini warns urushiol oil lingers on boots and tools for months or years. Severe reactions can lead to infections and missed work. Professional crews using manual removal report safer results with no chemical exposure.

University of Georgia weed scientist Mark Czarnota says triclopyr and three-way herbicides remain important for thick, stubborn poison ivy. Experts recommend digging when soil is moist to avoid root breakage that can cause regrowth. Increasingly, specialists suggest combining manual digging where possible with targeted herbicide use for the best control of mature vines.

But, manual poison ivy removal divides the landscape industry. Some lawn-care companies worry about worker safety and the time digging takes. Others say repeated chemical sprays get expensive and clients want safer choices. This ongoing debate shows the challenge of balancing speed, safety, and customer demand for less herbicide. The industry is searching for the best mix of methods as poison ivy keeps spreading.

Economic studies suggest trained crews using manual removal match chemical treatment costs while avoiding residue and drift. This makes manual control both a smart and cost-effective choice for homeowners.

Manual poison ivy removal offers more than just weed control, according to Maryland Grows. Native groundcovers hidden under poison ivy can bounce back within one season, creating better habitat for pollinators. Studies also show broad herbicides harm desirable plants unintentionally. This makes manual removal a win-win, clearing poison ivy while restoring biodiversity. It’s also sparking growth in native plant restoration and seeding services.

Tool makers also sell reinforced digging spades designed for uprooting roots. These products reflect how the industry is shifting toward manual-first poison ivy control, meeting landscapers’ demand for safer, targeted removal methods.

Growing Trend in Poison Ivy Control

Goat grazing is becoming a popular, eco-friendly way to manage poison ivy, offering a chemical-free alternative. Companies like Rent-A-Ruminant and local governments are turning to goats to clear parks and public spaces. At the same time, herbicide makers develop more precise products targeting woody vines, showing how the industry balances nature-friendly methods with modern science.

But for us homeowners, goat grazing is not the answer.

More homeowners are blending manual removal with follow-up care. They use cardboard and mulch to smother missed sprouts, then plant thick ground cover to stop new growth. Extension experts say mixing physical removal and habitat changes leads to better long-term control, though results depend on local conditions. This layered strategy shows how communities can turn a single method into an ongoing solution.

Smart, Safe Poison Ivy Control

Poison ivy is growing stronger and more widespread, but experts show that safe, effective control is possible. Manual removal combined with smart herbicide use, supported by new tools and eco-friendly methods like goat grazing, offers a balanced way forward. This approach protects people, plants, and the environment. As challenges grow, precision and persistence remain key to beating poison ivy for good.

Source: Buzz60©

Photo credit: ©Birzebbuga Clean Up; ©CAES Field Report – UGA – Facebook

When the seed catalogs start arriving in the mail after the New Year, placing your order early is a good idea, especially if you are after more unusual varieties. But when it comes to starting seeds, whether it’s indoors to get a head start on the growing season or whether it’s direct-seeding outdoors, there is such a thing as being too early.

Here’s what gardening experts say about which seeds you shouldn’t start in the dead of winter and why.

Tomatoes, Eggplants, and Peppers

To determine when to start the seeds indoors, count back six to eight weeks from the last average frost date in your area. Owen Taylor, the founder of Truelove Seeds, starts pepper and eggplant seeds in late February or early March. This can be earlier or later for your location depending on your last frost date.

Cucurbits

The members of the cucumber family (summer squash, zucchini, cucumber, melon, and watermelon) are also warm-weather crops. Most cucurbits germinate and grow fast so if you start them too early, the plants will be in urgent need of transplanting even though it may be too cold.

“Hold off on starting the seeds of fast-growing crops such as squashes and melons until April,” Taylor says. “That way, they are ready for a mid-May transplant into the garden after the last danger of frost.”

Elise Pickett, the founder of The Urban Harvest, says waiting out the cold weather also applies to southern crops like luffa gourd that thrive in the hot and humid Florida climate where she gardens.

Basil

Because basil is highly sensitive to cold—it needs daytime temperatures above 70°F—delay the seed starting until six to eight weeks before the last average frost date in your area to prevent scraggly transplants.

The only exception is if you have a sunny windowsill or strong grow lights that let you bridge the time until it’s time to transplant basil outdoors.

Beans

Because beans don’t transplant well, they cannot be started from seed indoors but must be directly seeded in the garden. They also need warm soil, at least 70 to 80°F, to germinate.

For Taylor, this means that mid-to-late May is bean planting season, depending on the weather. The same waiting period for beans applies in the south.

“Winter is prime growing season for much of the south but not for beans,” Taylor says. “They need very specific conditions: warm soil temperatures, longer daylight hours, and warm days.” 

Sweet Potatoes

Vegetables that are grown from seed are not the only ones that may stretch the patience of an eager gardener.

“Sweet potatoes do amazingly well in our Florida climate,” Pickett explains. “But they need the warmer spring months to be planted in the garden, or they will not germinate.”

If you don’t want to wait for soil temperatures to reach 60 to 85°F, growing sweet potato slips indoors gives you a head start on the growing season.

Annual Flowers

Taylor explains how heat-loving annuals like zinnias, marigolds, and cosmos are also not suitable to start in the middle of the winter.

Just like the vegetables, you’ll need to wait six to eight weeks before the last average frost date and then plant them in the garden after the last danger of frost. 

Source: The Spruce©

photo credit: © The Spruce / Jason Donnelly

Buying bags of soil from a store is quite costly, which can amount to over a hundred dollars for large garden beds. Turn garden and kitchen waste into useful material for filling raised garden beds, allowing you to save a substantial amount of money. You can also repurpose fallen tree branches or dead branches cut from trees instead of carting them away or burning them. The organic waste will decompose over the years, enriching the soil and providing steady nutrition for plants to use.

Soil Temperature: While compost is decomposed by bacteria, hugel beds are primarily decomposed by fungi. As the organic matters decompose, they will heat up and create a microclimate under the plants, and warm the raised garden bed soil, which can be very helpful in colder climates.

Planting a mix of annuals can bring instant color and depth to your garden. They are generally easy to grow, often self-seeding, and can transform your outdoor space with minimal effort. Whether you prefer fragrant flowers, vibrant colors, or edible plants, these annuals are sure to enhance your garden’s beauty.

Lantana

Grown as an annual in the Midwest, lantana is a must-have for pollinators. Its flat-topped “landing pads” consist of clusters of colorful tubular blooms in single and multiple colors. These floriferous plants endure summer’s heat and drought conditions. Try compact varieties like Lucky Sunrise Rose (12-16”) or trailing varieties like Lantana sellowiana. Lucky’s v-shape makes it a good companion for interplanting with other container plants.

Pro Tip: For maximum blooms, flowering annuals need a sunny location with 6 hours or more of sunlight. Otherwise, they cannot build up enough sun energy to fully flower.

Scaevola

This annual features an ongoing display of fan-shaped flowers from early summer until frost. The prolific plants thrive in sun-drenched areas with their thick, drought-tolerant stems.

While scaevolas come in pink, white and blue, a favorite is ‘Blue Fan’, pictured above, since blue flowers are rare among drought-tolerant plants. (Height: 12-14”)

Pro Tip: Some flowering annuals like scaevola may self-pollinate in mid-season and produce seedheads instead of blooms. This happens when two varieties such as a blue scaevola and a white scaevola are planted side by side. To avoid this bloom halt, stick with a single scaevola variety like the ‘Blue Fan’ scaevola in this mixed container.

Salvia

Salvia plants can be both annuals and perennials. Generally, salvia is considered an evergreen perennial, but some species may behave as annuals in colder climates where they cannot survive frost. With over 900 varieties, gardeners can find salvia that suits their hardiness zone, allowing for both classifications depending on the specific conditions.

Cuphea

For a charming trailer or bedding plant, try adding a cuphea loaded with tubular flowers that hummingbirds adore. Their flowers have these little mouse-like faces that are so cute. Look for varieties in eye-catching, two-tone colors like these Honeybells (10-12”) in pink and gold.

Verbena

Annual verbena features dense clusters of flowers that pollinators love. The plants tolerate temperature extremes, transitioning well from spring cold to summer heat. Don’t be afraid to start them earlier than other flowering annuals since they withstand temperatures into the low teens. A recommended variety is EnduraScape with large flowers for a big hit of color—from dark purple to hot pink. (Height 8-12”)

Pro Tip: Add a slow-release fertilizer when planting summer annuals. The pellets’ special coating is designed to gradually release food during warmer months when the plants are growing the fastest.

Coleus

Beyond flowers, several annuals like coleus are treasured for their showstopping foliage. Coleus add color, texture and luxuriously fill gaps with their boldly patterned and uniquely shaped leaves. No wonder, they’re known as the “Hawaiian shirts of the plant world.” Recommended newer varieties like Flamethrower (12-18”) are more compact and less likely to flower, so their showy foliage lasts longer.

Source: midwestliving.com©