Stop Guessing! Here’s How to Water Your Tomatoes the Right Way

A lush tomato garden with green and ripe tomatoes growing on plants, showcasing the title 'How to Water Tomatoes' at the top.

So, you’ve decided to plant tomatoes this year! Congratulations. Fresh tomatoes are a true gift of nature: so much sweeter and more flavorful than what you can find at the supermarket that you’d almost think they weren’t the same plant. And there are many, many ways to eat them, so even if you grow a lot, you’ll be able to use them.

There are plenty of secrets to growing good tomatoes you can read about, and they’ll help you get bigger yields or avoid pests, but the only thing that tomatoes really need is a spot to grow, plenty of light, and clean water.

But if you’re a newbie to the world of growing tomatoes, you may not be sure exactly how much water to give them. If they don’t get enough, the plants won’t fruit, or the tomatoes will be undersized. If they get too much, or if you water inconsistently, you risk mealy tomatoes, split skin, dry patches, blossom rot, or other issues.

How to Tell Your Plants Need Watering

While you might think a wilting plant is a sign that it needs water—and it sometimes is—it’s not the most reliable indicator. Young tomato plants can wilt in the heat, even if they have enough water. And besides, you wouldn’t want to wait until your plant looked so stressed to add water anyway.

Instead, the best way to tell is to feel the soil. If the top inch of soil feels dry and crumbly, chances are that your tomatoes need to be watered.

The Best Way to Water Tomatoes

The goal when watering tomatoes is to keep the soil consistently moist. If the plant spends too many days dry then gets a deluge of water, the fruit will develop dry patches on its skin, which then split when it attempts to grow—and the split skins can lead to rotting.

However—and this is important—you don’t want to douse the leaves or stems of the plant if you can help it. Moist leaves and stems can lead to unwanted fungal rotting.

Therefore, the best way to water tomatoes is close to the ground, directly into the dirt around the base of the plant. Water deeply, so the water penetrates to the roots, and water regularly. If you can, try to water early in the morning or in the evening after the sun has gone down. This will help keep most of the water in the soil, instead of evaporating.

Another good way to keep water from evaporating is to mulch around each plant, so that the dirt has less access to the air.

How Often to Water Young Plants

As the plants grow, water them once a day or every other day. You’ll want to water them a little more deeply, especially as they get bigger, to help them develop deeper roots. If the soil dries faster, water them a little more often. If it remains moist for a couple days, then you can back off to avoid overwatering.

How Often to Water Mature Plants

Once the plants are mature and before they fruit, they’ll need deep water about once a week. Mel Bartholomew, author of Square Foot Gardening recommends giving every 4 tomato plants about 1 to 2 gallons of water per week, or twice a week during very hot weather.

One exception is if you’re growing your plants in pots or other containers. Because more of the dirt is exposed to the environment, the soil is likely to dry out faster and may need to be watered much more frequently (although it will need less water each time).

Other Factors to Consider When Watering

Some other factors to consider are the soil environment: if the soil you’re using is sandy and prone to dry out, your tomatoes will need to be watered more often (and may need some fertilizer as well).

If the soil is dense and muddy or clay, which retains a lot of moisture, your plants may need to watered a little less frequently.

You’ll also want to consider what kinds of tomatoes you’re growing. Some plants are bred for growing in pots, for instance, with shallow root systems that need less water. Others that are bred to produce tomatoes all summer (instead of a single crop) and to grow in the ground, will have larger root systems that require a lot more water to stay moist.

Source: Country Living©

Landscape Ideas That Make Your House Look More Expensive

Well-Tended Trees

Trees give a property depth and dimension and add an undefinable aesthetic allure. After all, who doesn’t love the look of a big, shady tree on a hot summer day? In fact, a recent study showed that well-tended trees may impact the selling price of a home, as well as the number of days it spends on the market.

Photo credit: ©Yaorusheng – Getty Images

Attention to Detail

©Greg Pease – Getty Images

Details make all the difference. Keep walkways and paths level, tidy and weed-free, and ensure the driveway is in good repair and edged so grass isn’t creeping over it. Other little touches that make a landscape feel expensive: a handsome mailbox, pretty containers by the front door with seasonal plantings, landscape lighting with a spotlight on a tree or two, and neat shrubs, especially by the front door.

Natural Materials for Outdoor Furnishings

©onurdongel – Getty Images

When it comes to outdoor furniture, many designers are moving away from concrete and steel toward more natural materials, such as wood, rattan and woven fabrics in earthy colors. This more naturalistic palette of materials has a rich, soothing feel.

Source: msn.com©

How To Keep Lantana Blooming Big All Summer Long!

There is nothing quite like growing Lantana in containers, hanging baskets and flowerbeds for a gorgeous pop of color – especially when you can keep it blooming big and strong all summer long!

Lantana require very little maintenance for proper blooming. Even better, is rarely bothered by pests. Just two more striking reasons this plant is a perfect choice to beautify your landscape in the summer months. With that in mind, here is an in-depth look at Lantana, including how to keep it flowering all season long!

Planting and Watering – Growing Lantana To Keep It Blooming Big

As an annual plant, Lantana requires minimal care while planting. There are 5 main factors you have to cater to when planting Lantana for success – whether directly in flowerbeds, or in pots, containers and baskets:

  • soil drainage
  • lighting
  • watering
  • fertilizing
  • deadheading
Drainage

When grown annually, it is imperative to avoid wet or soggy soil. This invites problems such as plant disease and rotting of the roots. When planting in containers, this can be avoided simply by using a good quality potting soil that is loose and friable.

However, when planting directly into bed spaces, amend the soil prior to planting with plenty of compost. Not only will the compost provide nutrients for the plant, it will also help to loosen the soil and improve drainage.

If you happen to have exceptionally heavy or clay like soil, you can also amend with a bit of sand and perlite. The sand will help to drain the water away quickly while perlite will help to keep the soil from clogging together.

Lighting

One of the most pivotal keys to keep your Lantana blooming is giving it enough light. To provide maximum blooming potential, be sure you locate your plants in an area that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day.

You need not worry about the heat factor as Lantana can handle the sun’s hot rays. In fact, it can handle heat far better than cold. Cold, damp conditions can lead to low blooming and disease issues for the plant. When growing in containers, bring plants indoors if low temps (below 50 degrees Fahrenheit) are in the forecast.

Watering

With Lantana, over watering is more of an issue that under watering. Do not water the plant every day as it may lead to excessive moisture in the soil. Water only to ensure that the root ball along with surrounding area is moist. Be sure to allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Lantana growing in containers and baskets will require more watering than those directly growing in beds. But with that said, be careful of providing too much. It is better to soak the plant through every few days when watering than providing just a little water every day.

Fertilizing Lantana:

It is a bit surprising to know that fertilizing is not a major player in keeping your Lantana blooming. In fact, in many cases, it is too much fertilizer that can keep Lantana from blooming more. When the soil is too rich, plants tend to focus their energy on foliage growth in place of producing blooms.

For plants growing in flowerbeds, apply a light all purpose 10-10-10 fertilizer to plants in the early spring, and again in late summer. This is more than enough to provide the necessary nutrients for proper blooming.

For plants growing in containers, a light fertilization once a month works well. For potted plants, a light dose (half-strength of recommended mixture) of an all-purpose liquid fertilizer is more than enough.

Deadheading:

Finally, one of the most important secrets to keep your Lantana blooms blooming is deadheading your plant regularly. It is an uncomplicated task that works wonders for keeping new blooms coming on again and again.

Source: thisismygarden.com

15 Plants Never to Grow in Your Yard

Many plants are beautiful, but not all are beneficial in a garden. Some of the most eye-catching cultivars can be invasive, poisonous, or attractive to unwelcome insects—issues you probably don’t want to deal with. Check this list for 15 trees, shrubs, and other plants you should think twice about before planting on your property.

Mint

growing_mint

Mint is a wonderful herb to grow. It’s a great addition to food and drink and is beautifully aromatic in a vase with other flowers. But its roots are seriously invasive and can spread throughout your garden in a weed-like manner if not contained. Should you want to grow one or more of the delightful mint varieties, do yourself a favor and plant your mint in a container.

Photo: fotosearch.com

  • Aloe Vera

  • aloe-1

    Aloe vera is a succulent plant known for its healing properties, particularly for burned skin. If ingested by pets, however, it’s not so beneficial. The latex (aloe juice, just under the skin of the plant) is toxic and can cause major abdominal upset and cramping. For the sake of your pet’s health, it’s probably best to leave this botanical medical marvel out of your garden.

  • Belladonna

    Belladonna_Plant_Keep_Out_Of_Yard

    Atropa belladonna’s common name, deadly nightshade, should be an immediate tip that this plant is perhaps better left out of the home garden. Don’t let the lush green foliage, purplish bell-shaped flowers, and glossy black berries fool you—this plant is extremely toxic and should be kept away from any gardens where children or pets could accidentally ingest it.

    Bamboo

  • bamboo4/16

    Bamboo’s hardness and rapid growth characteristics make it one of the world’s most renewable building resources. But that doesn’t necessarily make it a viable option for your garden. Before long, you’ll find your yard—and quite possibly your neighbor’s yard—overrun with a bamboo privacy screen that could take years to eradicate. If you must grow bamboo, do it in large landscaping planters.
     Photo: flickr.com

    Mimosa Tree

    The mimosa family of shrubbery and silk trees, with their feathery, fern-like leaves and showy pink flowers, look both exotic and romantic. You will not cultivate love with your neighbors, however, if you plant one. It is incredibly invasive and will spawn seedlings everywhere in your yard and throughout the neighborhood. Once it has taken hold, it’s nearly impossible to get rid of.

  • Japanese Barberry

    American landscapers seem to have an unquenchable love affair with Japanese barberry. It is drought and shade tolerant, and deer resistant. But studies have shown that it harbors black-legged ticks, which can carry Lyme disease. It is also invasive and covered with a thicket of sharp barbs to boot, making it unpleasant to manage, at best. Err on the side of caution and choose native alternatives over Japanese barberry for your landscaping.

  • Wisteria

    Wisteria, with its brilliant, cascading purple blooms, is tempting for a gardener who loves flowers—but beware! Its root system can send shoots popping up far away from the main plant, engulfing trees, shrubs, and anything else in its way. It can live hundreds of years and requires serious pruning every year to keep it under control.

  • Amaranthus

    Amaranthus can be a showstopper in the garden, but as a top pollen producer, it can also make allergy sufferers miserable. Skip amaranthus in your plant lineup, and you’ll be able to enjoy your garden that much more during springtime.

  • Castor Bean

    Castor bean is a fast-growing and showy annual with large leaves and clustered flowers. All parts of this impressive plant are poisonous, though, especially the seed. It’s not a good candidate for a gardener who shares property with animals, as it’s toxic to not only small pets like dogs, cats, and rabbits, but also larger animals like cattle, sheep, and horses.

    Yucca

    yucca

    A yucca plant in the yard can be a problem child, as it requires a lot of maintenance. Its sharp, pointy leaves need to be discarded after they’re spent, and stalks need to be chopped down. It blooms for only about a week, and yucca attracts lots of bugs. Its root system is pervasive and hard to kill. Should you want to remove it, you might have to dig up everything around it as well. This distinctive plant is best left in a pot indoors or on the porch.
    Photo: fotosearch.com

  • Bradford Pear

    Bradford pears are a very popular choice for suburban front yards and commercial properties alike. They grow fast and flower profusely. Pretty as they are, their weak wood makes them easy targets for serious wind and storm damage. Not to mention, though their blooms are beautiful, they have a very unpleasant smell. 

  • Himalayan Blackberry

    Planting a blackberry bush is a wonderful way to raise your own homegrown edibles but be careful which variety you choose. The Himalayan blackberry is incredibly invasive, and once it takes hold, is difficult to root out and destroy. Purchase your plants from reputable nurseries, and select the upright, thornless varieties for home gardens.

  • Water Hyacinth

  • water_hyacinth

    Water hyacinth, an aquatic plant native to South America, has gained popularity as a natural filter for backyard koi ponds and water features. Unfortunately, this invasive plant does a lot more than clean impurities from water—it can actually take over a pond or stream, choking out fish and other plants. Resist adding these showy lavender flowers to your backyard water feature and opt for something else instead.
    Photo: istockphoto.com

  • Eucalyptus Tree

    A Eucalyptus tree will give you shade in a hurry—growing up to 10 feet a year. But the plant’s weak branches are known to suddenly give way and fall. Its peeling bark is looks visually interesting, but in reality, just makes for extra yard work every year.

  • Euphorbia

    Otherwise known as Spurges, Euphorbia is a plant genus that comprises many different species. The plants, though beautiful, contain a milky sap that will irritate the skin are poisonous if ingested. Despite their handsome foliage and unique flowers, give these plants a miss.

    Floral Follies

    Floral Follies

    Steer clear of these plants to avoid gardening headaches. There are still plenty of choices for a frustration-free garden!

    By Jennifer Noonan & Bobvila.com

Avoid This Mistake When Growing Milkweed

Milkweed is a gorgeous native North American species that has multiple benefits for your garden, as well as a special relationship with the vulnerable monarch butterfly. That’s because milkweed provides vital food and breeding habitat for monarchs. As the news that monarchs are at risk has spread, there’s been a massive push to grow milkweed in our gardens to provide a valuable host plant and food source for these beloved insects. It’s estimated that we need as many as 1.8 billion more milkweed plants across the U.S. to help save the monarch butterfly. However, well-intentioned gardeners have been making the common mistake of overwatering their milkweed while the plants are dormant, which can cause root rot and kill the plant.

Monarch butterflies are a vulnerable species due to a variety of factors that include habitat loss and a decline in wild milkweed. This makes it vital to plant milkweed and learn how to grow it correctly. However, it’s essential to remember that milkweed is a wild plant, meaning it functions more like a weed than an ornamental plant you might buy at your local nursery. Most milkweed species thrive in dry conditions with poor soils, meaning they do not need much to survive — especially not too much water.

There are more than 100 species of milkweed in the U.S. The most common is Asclepias syriaca, or common milkweed. Many milkweed species like dry, sunny conditions and do not need any additional soil enrichment. However, if your soil is more clay-based and doesn’t have the best drainage, you may want to amend the soil to ensure that the milkweed roots don’t get waterlogged.

Over the winter, your milkweed plants will die back and become dormant. Come springtime, gardeners may mistakenly overwater their dormant milkweed plants to get them to regrow faster. However, it’s key to remember that these are typically late spring to early summer bloomers and are not among the first plants to emerge. Furthermore, because most milkweeds thrive in well-drained soils, overwatering may lead to root rot that could kill the plant. Instead, you will generally want to let them be and only water when the top two inches of soil is bone dry. Even then, be sure not to soak the plants too much. Remember, they’re considered weeds because they act like weeds, so less really is more for milkweed.

Source: House Digest©

Protecting trees and shrubs from periodical cicada damage

There are several things you can do to prevent cicada damage to trees and shrubs in your landscape:

  1. Avoid planting trees and shrubs the year before a periodical cicada emergence. Avoid planting trees and shrubs in the spring of an emergence year, too. If you do need to plant, choose plants that have a stem diameter of at least 2½ inches in diameter.
  2. Place netting around small trees and shrubs (up to 10 feet tall), making sure it is secured around the base of the plant to prevent cicadas from crawling up the plant from the ground. The opening should be no larger than ¼ inch. It may be helpful to build a frame around the plants, cicadas may still be able to lay eggs on branches that are touching the netting. 
  3. Twigs and branches that have had eggs laid in them can be pruned off to prevent the nymphs from reaching the ground and feeding. However, feeding by cicada nymphs does not seem to be harmful to the trees they feed on.
  4. Insecticides are not recommended to manage periodical cicadas in home landscapes. Large, healthy trees are able to survive egg-laying with no long-term impacts (this has been happening for thousands of years). Insecticides are not as effective in protecting smaller trees and shrubs from cicadas as netting. Additionally, applying pesticides to control cicadas may harm other organisms, including animals that eat cicadas.
  5. Cicada killer wasps won’t be of any help either. They emerge later in the year when annual or dogday cicadas emerge, and by that time, periodical cicada adults will be dead.

Source: extension.illinois.edu

Photo Credit: GettyImages©

The cicadas are coming, the cicadas are coming!  

Can you hear them? Probably not yet, but soon, Illinois will be awash in the songs of periodical cicadas. This year (2024) is a big year for periodical cicadas in Illinois, where Broods XIII and XIX will be emerging throughout much of the state at the same time. This is the first time this has happened since 1803, and it won’t happen again until 2245! Despite some talk of an impending insect apocalypse, cicadas don’t pose a threat to humans (or pets), although that newly planted tree or shrub may be a different story.

While two broods will be emerging at the same time, they won’t be emerging in the same places. Brood XIII, also known as the Northern Illinois Brood, will be emerging in the northern half of the state. Brood XIII contains all three species of 17-year periodical cicadas: Magicicada septendecim, M. cassini, and M. septendecula. In addition to Illinois, this brood will be emerging in Indiana, Iowa, Wisconsin, and possibly Michigan.

Brood XIX, also known as the Great Southern Brood, will be emerging in the southern half of Illinois. The four species of cicadas in this brood are 13-year cicadas: Magicicada tredecim, M. neotredecim, M. tredecassini, and M. tredecula. This brood is the largest of the 13-year broods, geographically speaking, and will emerge across Alabama, Arkansas, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, and Virginia.

There may be a few places in central Illinois, around Springfield, where the two broods will be emerging in the same area. However, they aren’t expected to overlap to any great extent.

In addition to Broods XIII and XIX, there may be some cicadas from Brood XXIII, the Mississippi Valley Brood, that may emerge. This brood will emerge in 2028, but occasionally, some periodical cicadas will emerge four years early, which in this case would be 2024, and are referred to as stragglers. If any stragglers from Brood XXIII do emerge it will be primarily in far southern Illinois. 

Periodical cicada life-cycle and biology

Periodical cicadas are among the longest-lived insects on the planet, living for 13 or 17 years. They spend the vast majority of that time living underground, feeding on tree roots. Once the soil warms enough in the spring (64°F at 8 inches deep), they will begin to emerge, depending on where you are located, sometime in May or early June. The nymphs usually emerge from the soil in the evening and will climb up trees or other objects and molt, leaving behind the familiar cicada ‘shells’ (shed exoskeleton).

After the adults emerge, they are white, soft, and squishy but will darken and harden overnight. Contrary to popular belief, adult periodical cicadas do feed on plants (usually woody plants). However, they will spend most of their time above ground reproducing.

Male cicadas will start singing four or five days after they emerge. They will gather in trees and sing together to attract females. Females lack structures to produce sound (tymbals), so only males will sing. Each species of cicada has a distinctive song they produce.

After mating, female periodical cicadas will lay their eggs in the new growth of woody plants. They prefer branches that are about the width of a pencil or a little larger (up to ½ inch or so in diameter). They will use their saw-like ovipositor (egg-laying organ) to cut into branches and lay 10-20 eggs before moving further down the branch. In total, each female will lay around 500-600 eggs.

After about a month, the adult cicadas will begin to die. Large piles of cicadas can accumulate under trees and can smell rather unpleasant (similar to roadkill). However, their decaying bodies will serve as fertilizer for plants.

Six to ten weeks after they are laid, the eggs will begin to hatch. The tiny cicada nymphs will drop to the ground and begin feeding, often on grass roots. Over time, they will dig down into the soil, 8-12 inches deep, and feed on tree roots for the next 13 or 17 years.

Source: extension.illinois.edu

Self-Watering Raised Garden Bed

  • This raised garden bed makes watering your plants much easier, and the metal frame will last for years.  

It’s more expensive than many other raised garden beds, so it’s not the best choice if you’re on a tight budget.

With a self-watering feature and a durable metal bed, a Self-Watering Metal Raised Bed is a practical raised bed that will add a modern, industrial style look to your growing space.

The self-watering system is simple to set up and install, and it’s easy to add water later via two fill tubes. The reservoir can hold 20 gallons of water in total, thanks to two pairs of connected 5-gallon reservoirs.

To ensure the water moves evenly throughout the bed, it’s important to install this bed on level ground. These raised garden beds would be a great choice if you don’t have a good water source nearby. 

Made of powder-coated 24-gauge metal, this raised garden bed is strong and durable, so you won’t need to worry about replacing it anytime soon. This self-watering raised garden bed is available in several different sizes: 2 x 4 feet, 2 x 8 feet, and 4 x 4 feet.

You can fill this bed with the potting mix of your choice, but you can purchase a Self-Watering Potting Mix that’s specifically designed for self-watering beds.

If you don’t mind paying a bit more to make watering easier and for the extra durability that a metal bed offers, this self-watering raised garden bed is a good way to successfully grow a wide variety of plants. 

Product Details: Dimensions: 51 x 51 x 15 inches | Material: Metal

Source: gardeners.com©

How to Get Rid of Ants in Your House and Yard

How to Find Ant Nests

Sometimes the solution to an ant problem is getting rid of their nest. If you’re dealing with carpenter ants, which can do structural damage to your house, it’s vital that you wipe them out ASAP. Finding the nest may not be easy and takes some detective work. Ants generally prefer damp areas, such as framing or flooring that’s soft and spongy from a plumbing or roof leak. How to get rid of ants begins by looking for areas with water damage. Attics, bathrooms and exterior walls are obvious candidates. Cut small holes in water-damaged walls to track down the ant nest. (You’re going to have to repair the walls anyway.) When you find the nest, spray it with an insecticide that contains bifenthrin, permethrin or deltamethrin (look on the label). Ortho’s Home Defense Max is one brand. Be sure to fix the water leak and replace damaged wood. If you can’t track down the nest, hire a pest control service. Pros spend about 80 percent of their time hunting down nests. Their fees start at about $150, but tough cases with multiple treatments can cost $400 or more.

Ant Removal: Determine the Best Ant Bait

When you see an ant, your first impulse is probably to step on it. But don’t. You’ll kill it, but for every ant you see, there may be hundreds more hiding in the house. The ones you see are scout ants, foraging for food to take back to the colony. Use these scouts to wipe out the entire colony.

Prebait ants in areas you’ve previously seen them. Ants’ tastes change during the year. They usually prefer protein in the spring and sweets or fatty/oily foods in the summer. Set out sugar or honey, fried food and peanut butter, then see which food attracts ants. Use whichever food they prefer for bait and a DIY way to get rid of ants. Once you know what the ants like, buy and set out toxic ant bait that’s geared to their taste. Look on the bait package for words like “controls both sweet and grease eating ants.”

Ant Removal: Erase Ant Trails

Where you see one ant, you’re bound to see others. That’s because ants leave a scented trail that other ants follow. Sweeping or mopping isn’t enough to eliminate the scent. Instead, mix 1 part vinegar with 3 parts water in a spray bottle for a safe way to get rid of ants in the home, then spray wherever you’ve seen ants in the past. This will stop outdoor nesting ants that entered the house to forage for food (ants that come inside are not necessarily trying to establish a nest).

Vinegar and water won’t stop ants that are already nesting indoors. You’ll need to kill them with ant bait.

Ant Removal: Wipe Out Ant Colonies

Once you’ve set out toxic ant bait, expect to see lots of ants (initially). That’s a good thing. It means more ants are taking the bait (which is toxic) back to the colony where they’ll share it with the rest of the ants, including the queen, and kill them. There might be thousands of ants back at the nest. Liquid bait is the best way to kill ants for many sweet-loving ants. Other ants prefer solid bait. If you still have ants in house after two weeks, replace the bait containers. If that doesn’t work, how to get rid of ants next means finding the nest.

How to Kill Ants in Your Yard

Anthills are eyesores in yards, and the ants can ruin outside dining. If you only have ants in a certain area, like along your sidewalk, spot-treat the area with an outdoor insecticide. Liquid or granules work fine as a way to get rid of ants.

For large-scale ant problems on how to get rid of ants, use a lawn and garden insect killer that contains bifenthrin as the active ingredient. The spray will also kill other insects (read the label for a list).

  1. First, mow the grass.
  2. Then spray the insecticide on the entire lawn—you can also spray shrubs and trees.

Spray in the early morning or late afternoon when the ants are most active. And it’s best to spray on a calm day to prevent drift. If ants are still building mounds after six weeks, treat the lawn again (the insecticide works for up to six weeks). You won’t kill every ant in your yard (nor would you want to!), but spraying will eliminate most of them and stop the annoying mounds.

How to Kill Ants in Your Yard: Destroy Exterior Nests

If you frequently see ants in the same area on the siding, there’s probably an ant nest in there. How to get rid of ants begin with looking for holes in the siding where ants are crawling in and out. The holes are often located between bricks where mortar has fallen out, under lap siding or in cracks in stucco. Once you locate the nest, or the vicinity of the nest, spray the area with an insecticide containing bifenthrin.

How to Kill Ants in Your Yard: Fire Ants

Fire ants are found in the Southeastern United States and Southern California. Standard insecticides are much less effective at killing fire ants.

You need a special product that’s designed to wipe out and the best wall to kill ants and these biting critters. Apply the granules with a broadcast spreader. Fire ants carry the granules, which they think are food (it’s actually toxic bait) back to their mounds. The ants share the bait and die. Some of these insecticides keep killing fire ants for up to a year. As with other baits, it may take a few weeks for you to see full results.

Ant Prevention: Keep It Clean

A clean house is your first defense against ants. Sweep up food crumbs, wipe up spills, take out the garbage and don’t leave dirty dishes sitting around the house. This takes away the ants’ food source. For a safe way to get rid of ants, spray vinegar mixed with water around bowls of pet food to keep ants from feasting there.

Ant Prevention: Spray Ant Entry Points

After ridding the house of ants, take steps to ensure they don’t come back. Caulk and seal holes, and then spray insecticide around doors and windows. An insecticide that contains bifenthrin, permethrin or deltamethrin is one way how to get rid of ants. Spray a 4-in.-wide band along entry points, just enough to wet the surface. Once dry, the spray leaves an invisible film that repels ants so they won’t enter the house. Each spring, spray the insecticide to guard against ants. But keep in mind that this only works to keep ants out—it won’t kill ants that are already inside, and it can actually interfere with the use of ant baits. Kill more than just ants with this multipurpose insect bait (Amazon), which is one of the best ant sprays.

Ant Prevention: Spray on an Ant Barrier

If you’re still getting ants in your house after spraying interior entry points, spray a 12-in.-wide band of ant insecticide on the foundation and on and under the first course of lap siding to keep ants from entering the house. An outdoor insecticide that says “barrier treatment” on the label is one tool for how to get rid of ants.

Ant Prevention: Eliminate Safe Havens for Ants

Once you kill the ants in your house and yard, take steps to ensure they don’t come back.

  • Trim back bushes, shrubs and trees that brush against your siding or roof that provide a bridge for ants to reach your house.
  • Keep a 3-in. to 6-in. clearance space between the soil around the foundation and the bottom row of siding to prevent ants from nesting in the siding (and make sure the soil slopes away from the house).
  • Avoid stacking firewood next to the house. Firewood makes a perfect retreat for ants.
  • Ants like bare spots in the yard and ants like to build nests under layers of thatch. Maintaining a healthy lawn is one way to get rid of ants.
  • If anthills pop up in bare areas, spray the mound with insecticide and plant grass in the bare spots in order to get rid of ants.
  • Rake the lawn or bag the grass when you mow to eliminate thatch.

Article and photos by Family Handyman© and appeared on msn.com©

The 2 Best Tall Ornamental Grasses for Creating a Privacy Screen

Check out these 2 of our favorite tall ornamental grass choices to add privacy to a deck or patio without a fence.

1. Fountain Grass

Fountain grass is a non-invasive tall perennial grass that grows in clumps.

The ornamental grass bears leaves that seem like a fountain, and the foxtail-looking flowers are of tan, pink, or purple makes an elegant statement.

More pragmatically, ornamental grass can create privacy and a sense of enclosure in a larger space.

The grass enjoys warm climates under the full sun but can still grow on slightly shaded areas.

The soil has to be well-draining because it doesn’t like moist soil.

Fertilized soil is not a requirement but a good start if you grow this.

Fountain grass is a popular choice since it is known to be an easy-to-grow plant in the garden.

Quick Plant Info

  • Botanical Name: Pennisetum Alopecuroides
  • Water Need: Regular
  • Sun Need: Full Sun
  • Maximum Height: 3-4 Feet
  • Pruning: Yes, Cut Off Old And Dead Foliage Before New Leaves Come
  • Care: Divide The Established Plant During Spring Every 2 To 3 Years In Early Spring.
  • Agricultural Zone: 4-9

2. Chinese Silver Grass

A tall ornamental grass that changes color from season to season.

Also known as maiden grass, it is normally green grass with brown and white flowers. The stem reddens in fall, and the green leaves change from yellow to beige. All seasons, the grass is a beautiful addition to the garden.

M. sinensis prefers soil with good drainage but keeping it relatively moist. When the plant matures, it will become a drought-tolerant grass needing less water.

The plant grows in a cluster but is considered invasive in some parts of the U.S.

Quick Plant Info

  • Botanical Name: Miscanthus sinensis
  • Water need: Occasionally
  • Sun need: Full sun
  • Maximum height: 6-10 feet
  • Pruning: Yes, during spring. Cut off foliage where new buds pop.
  • Care: Divide the established plant into four parts to avoid overcrowding.
  • Agricultural zone: 5-9

Source: urbanorganicyield.com