Tag: #trees

7 trees to prune in March before it is too late

Pruning trees ensures they remain healthy, safe, and beautiful. An important part of maintaining trees is trimming them at the right time and there are seven trees to prune in March before it is too late.

Many deciduous trees will start to break dormancy this month. It means the window to prune them is closing, as you want to trim before the new growth starts. If you have not got out and pruned your fruit trees, dogwoods, oaks, hawthorn, and more then it is a job to add to March’s gardening to-do list.

 

1. Crabapple

((Image credit: Getty Images/whitemay))

Crabapple trees are very low-maintenance trees for a backyard, which includes pruning. After you plant a crabapple tree, it may require some trimming to keep it well-shaped and healthy, but it is not a rigorous annual task and more a case of as-and-when.

If you wonder when to prune crabapple trees, the answer is during their dormancy and before the buds swell in spring. It is often that March is an ideal window in many climates.

2. Dogwood

((Image credit: Getty Images/aimintang))

Dogwood trees are popular and versatile ornamental additions to provide color through fall and winter. Regular pruning in March will help keep the tree healthy and is also a useful way to control the shape and size of the dogwood – perfect if you want to enjoy the tree in a small garden.

3. Fig

((Image credit: Nigel Cattlin / Alamy Stock Photo))

When you grow a fig tree, it is key to know how and when to prune fig trees to keep them healthy and reward you with a great crop of fruits. The ideal time to prune figs is in late winter or early spring – between February and April, depending on your climate.

4. Hawthorn

((Image credit: Robert Moore via Getty Images))

Hawthorns are a historic type of tree with red berries, and these fruits follow its highly scented white or pink flowers that appear in spring. Hawthorn trees should not be pruned until established and require trimming every 3-5 years to maintain the shape and ensure the tree’s health. Pruning should be early spring. Whenever you prune hawthorn, you must have a pair of strong and thick gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection as the tree has sharp thorns.

5. Holly

((Image credit: Getty Images/Danielle D. Hughson))

There are hundreds of varieties of holly to grow and many can make fantastic trees, some capable of reaching up to 50 feet in height. The wonderful thing about growing holly, as well as the berries and different colors of spikey leaves to choose between, is that it is very versatile and can be kept under control through pruning in spring- meaning that holly trees can work in gardens of all sizes.

6. Mountain Ash

((Image credit: Getty Images/Westend61))

The mountain ash, also known as the rowan tree, is a deciduous ornamental tree suitable for small or medium-sized gardens. Mountain ash trees impress with their feathered leaves followed by vibrant red berries in late summer and fall. If you grow rowan trees, they do not need lots of pruning – but it is important to trim at the right time.

Late winter or early spring is the ideal time to prune as the trees are susceptible to fire blight and pruning in late winter at the end of their dormancy mitigates the risk of infection. It also reduces the risk of excessive sap loss. Mountain ash doesn’t need a lot of maintenance pruning. It is usually a case of removing dead or diseased branches and thinning any overcrowded or crossing stems to open up the canopy.

7. Oak

((Image credit: Gabe Palmer / Alamy Stock Photo))

Oak trees are beautiful specimens and one of the best trees for wildlife, but they do need to be well-maintained. Not pruning an oak tree can leave it unhealthy and diseased, increasing the risk of dropping branches, especially during storms.

Pruning oak trees annually in winter or early spring keeps the tree healthy and looking at its best. It also keeps branches away from houses and power lines and prevents them from blocking sightlines for driveways and sidewalks.

Source: Homes & Gardens©

 

Should You Cover A Tree’s Exposed Roots With Soil?

 

Exposed Tree Roots

Do you have a tree with exposed roots on your property? If so, you might be tempted to cover them with dirt. Perhaps the tree seems unkempt with its gnarled roots poking out. Thus, creating bald patches of grass on your lawn and opportunities for weeds to grow. Also, do the roots create a tripping hazard and you’re anxious to get them back underground?

To cover or not

Simply dumping dirt over exposed roots puts a band-aid on the issue rather than solving it. If the roots are on the surface, that means there is a reason why they had to come above ground. Specifically, there could be a problem with the soil or space underneath. Basically, burying them under a mound of dirt doesn’t solve the issue. Here is why you shouldn’t cover a tree’s roots, and what to do instead.

Exposed roots, or surface roots, shouldn’t be covered with a heap of dirt because they will suffocate. They came up to the surface probably due to a lack of oxygen underground, so adding a thick layer of dirt will recreate the original problem for the roots. When they can’t get enough oxygen, their cells will begin to die, which will lead to permanent damage to the rest of the tree. Because of this, covering the tree’s above-ground roots with dirt is a rookie mistake. 

The root of the problem

Throwing dirt over them also doesn’t address the underlying issue. Sure, mature trees grow large, thick roots, which is why sometimes they poke out from underground. But if you have a relatively young tree and you’re noticing surface roots, you might have an issue with your dirt instead. For example, roots tend to grow upward towards the surface when the soil is overly compacted or saturated. That’s because the roots lack oxygen in those conditions, so they start growing where they can access more air. This means you need to solve your soil issue if you don’t want more roots poking through. Once you solve those issues, you can then minimize the risk of more exposed roots developing.

 

 

Using mulch

If you don’t want to leave the roots exposed, you can cover them with a thin layer of soil or mulch. Add no more than three inches to ensure the roots still get adequate air and you’re not putting it in danger of root rot. If you’re worried about damaging the roots, try utilizing mulch over dirt. Mulch is much lighter, allowing more air to filter through to the exposed roots. If you go the mulch route, also avoid creating a mulch volcano around the trunk, as that will also suffocate the tree.

Using sod or seed

Another way to hide the roots is to add about two inches of soil mixed with grass seed, which will eventually develop into turf that will cover the roots. However, this is only a temporary fix, since the roots will only continue to grow and poke back out in a few years. At that point, you can repeat the process once again.

Aeration

You can also begin to aerate the soil, lessening the ground’s compaction and bringing more air down to the underground roots. This will help minimize the chance that more surface roots will develop. If you aren’t confident in aerating the dirt with a pointy tool when there is a maze of roots zigzagging about, you can call a tree expert or arborist to do it for you. 

Source:   Housedigest©

Photo credit: © HakanGider/Shutterstock; © Wirestock/Getty Images

Related:  10 Small Landscaping Trees That Require Little Growing Space – TUTORING YOU

Wintertime is a great time to look for galls on trees

With no leaves to block our view, winter allows us to see trunk and branch structure more clearly. We also sometimes see unusual growths, or galls, on tree trunks and branches. There are a variety of different causes, depending on the tree species.

Galls are abnormal growths that occur on leaves, twigs, or branches. They may be simple lumps or complicated structures, plain brown or brightly colored. There are 1500 species of gall producers, the majority of which are insects and mites. Some galls form where insects or mites feed or lay eggs. They may also develop as a response to infections by several kinds of fungi, bacteria, and viruses. Galls affecting leaves are seldom if ever a serious problem. Galls affecting twigs, such as the gouty oak gall and horned oak gall, can be more serious.

Symptoms and Diagnosis

In most cases, galls are unsightly but not damaging to the tree. Small plants may be stunted because the water and nutrient circulatory system of the plant may be damaged. Infested leaves, which can be twisted and curled, are usually able to carry out photosynthesis at near normal levels. Less striking and non-apparent galls that can occur on twigs, small branches, and roots can, over time, kill and weaken portions of a tree or cause a general decline in plant vigor. Galls can be confused with normal parts of the tree, for example, seed-bearing structures or insects such as scale.

Life Cycle

Galls result from the interaction between a chemical stimuli produced by the pest organism and the plant’s hormones. These pest organisms are masters in the art of compelling the host plant to provide food and shelter for the larvae which resides inside. The walls of the gall are structurally strong, rich in protein, and provide the larvae inside with protection and food.

A specific gall producer can often be identified by the unique color, shape, and structure of the gall that develops around it or by the host plant it is on. In our area most gall-causing insects have only one generation a year making control after symptoms appear of little or no value. Many gall producers have not been extensively studied and their life histories are poorly understood. In the absence of such basic information few protocols for control exist. Since the vast majority of galls produce only cosmetic blemishes, economic incentives for funding further study are lacking.

Integrated Pest Management Strategies

1. Do nothing; live with the problem. Despite the unattractive appearance of galls, their presence is usually not harmful to the host plant. Gall producers are usually kept in control by their natural enemies. The only galls that may warrant control in St. Louis are gouty oak gall and horned oak gall.

2. Use cultural controls. Some gall producers overwinter in leaf litter beneath the tree. Therefore, some control may be achieved by raking and destroying fallen leaves. If needed, control can be helped by pruning off and destroying gall-infested twigs and branches. Prevent stress on the plant by watering during dry periods and fertilizing if needed.

3. If necessary, use chemical sprays. If a tree is small, in poor health, or defoliated several years in a row, using chemical sprays may be warranted. Sprays will also kill beneficial insects that usually keep galls and other insect pests under control so spraying may make your tree vulnerable to other pests. Also, spraying will not reduce the number of galls this year. To prevent galls, sprays must be used as a preventive before the galls form. In the rare cases where control of galls is necessary, a qualified arborist will be needed to spray the tree. Effective control is difficult, but an arborist would be best able to identify the gall-producing organism and recommend and carry out control measures.

In some cases, such as the golf-ball sized galls on hickory caused by Phomopsis on hickory (above), the branches can die as the gall encircles the branch. Burls on oaks are often caused by fungi or bacteria, and the trees can live with them for their entire lives. While these galls may lessen the value of timber for lumber purposes, they are mostly a curiosity that we notice more often in winter. If you see swellings or galls on branches of your landscape trees, identifying the cause may be important to determine if pruning them away is recommended.

Many galls can be easily pruned. Check out this information on pruning deciduous trees. Typically, you want to use sanitized pruners, and you’ll want to cut about 8 inches down on the branch when removing galls.

Article by missouribotanicalgarden.org

Photo By Diana Alfuth

Choose the Perfect Tree for your Yard

Choosing a tree for your backyard ideas is something you should give careful consideration to. The right tree in the right place not only adds greenery, structure and height, but some will even give you flowers, fruit, or colorful bark. They attract and aid wildlife, and – being so big – add a soulfulness that other plants can’t offer. 

But in order to avoid potential issues later on, time should be taken on deciding the best trees for your plot. ‘There is a suitable tree for every situation,’ says Tony Kirkham, head arborist at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in the UK. 

‘Having estimated the maximum size that the space can accommodate and the conditions in the potential site, you can then go deeper into the tree’s ornamental attributes,’ he adds. ‘Trees have many features that we can enjoy through the seasons: for example, the leaf size, shape and color; flowers; fruits; and bark.’ 

(Image credit: Lana2011 / Getty Images)

Whether you have a small or large backyard, one that gets lots of sun or is often in the shade, there’s a tree to suit your outdoor space. Our simple steps on how to choose a tree will help you to work out what will be most suitable for your plot.

1. Consider What You Want the Tree For

2. Choose A Tree to Suit the Size of Your Plot

3. Think About the Mood You Want to Create

4. Consider the Tree’s Growth Rate

5. Bear in Mind How a Tree Will Look Throughout the Year

6. Don’t Forget About Wildlife

7. Opt for Container Grown Trees in Small Spaces

8. Choose Fruit Trees for Homegrown Harvests

9. Plant It at the Right Time of Year

10. Avoid Species That Are Too Large

What Is The Closest A Tree Should Be To A House?

Work out what the overall height of the tree is when mature and plant it three-quarters of its height away from the house. A large tree such as an English oak (Quercus robur), which will grow to 100ft, should be planted no closer than 72ft away from the property.’ 

Which Trees Add Structure?

Cypresses grow into columnar rockets and monkey puzzles have an open, rigid architectural form. Plus, some trees can be trained or cut into incredible lines and shapes. For example, lime (Tilia platyphyllos ‘Rubra’) can be pleached (grown into an elegant narrow screen) and holly can be clipped into pyramids or boule standards that resemble huge green lollipops. 

And if you’re wondering how to choose a tree which will add structure without casting too much shade, go with columnar trees, such as white-flowered Amelanchier ‘Obelisk’ or ‘Glenn Form’ and pink-flowered cherries ‘Spire’ or ‘Amanogawa’. All of which have fiery Fall color. 

If you’re looking for ways to add structure to a shady plot, there are plenty of trees for shade that will happily grow in an area of your backyard that doesn’t receive much sun. 

Every backyard, no matter how small, should try and find space for a tree. They improve air quality, as well as being great element for sensory gardens, giving a mindful boost to our outdoor spaces.

Source: homesandgardens.com