Choosing a tree for your backyard ideas is something you should give careful consideration to. The right tree in the right place not only adds greenery, structure and height, but some will even give you flowers, fruit, or colorful bark. They attract and aid wildlife, and – being so big – add a soulfulness that other plants can’t offer.
But in order to avoid potential issues later on, time should be taken on deciding the best trees for your plot. ‘There is a suitable tree for every situation,’ says Tony Kirkham, head arborist at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in the UK.
‘Having estimated the maximum size that the space can accommodate and the conditions in the potential site, you can then go deeper into the tree’s ornamental attributes,’ he adds. ‘Trees have many features that we can enjoy through the seasons: for example, the leaf size, shape and color; flowers; fruits; and bark.’
(Image credit: Lana2011 / Getty Images)
Whether you have a small or large backyard, one that gets lots of sun or is often in the shade, there’s a tree to suit your outdoor space. Our simple steps on how to choose a tree will help you to work out what will be most suitable for your plot.
1. Consider What You Want the Tree For
2. Choose A Tree to Suit the Size of Your Plot
3. Think About the Mood You Want to Create
4. Consider the Tree’s Growth Rate
5. Bear in Mind How a Tree Will Look Throughout the Year
6. Don’t Forget About Wildlife
7. Opt for Container Grown Trees in Small Spaces
8. Choose Fruit Trees for Homegrown Harvests
9. Plant It at the Right Time of Year
10. Avoid Species That Are Too Large
What Is The Closest A Tree Should Be To A House?
Work out what the overall height of the tree is when mature and plant it three-quarters of its height away from the house. A large tree such as an English oak (Quercus robur), which will grow to 100ft, should be planted no closer than 72ft away from the property.’
Which Trees Add Structure?
Cypresses grow into columnar rockets and monkey puzzles have an open, rigid architectural form. Plus, some trees can be trained or cut into incredible lines and shapes. For example, lime (Tilia platyphyllos ‘Rubra’) can be pleached (grown into an elegant narrow screen) and holly can be clipped into pyramids or boule standards that resemble huge green lollipops.
And if you’re wondering how to choose a tree which will add structure without casting too much shade, go with columnar trees, such as white-flowered Amelanchier ‘Obelisk’ or ‘Glenn Form’ and pink-flowered cherries ‘Spire’ or ‘Amanogawa’. All of which have fiery Fall color.
If you’re looking for ways to add structure to a shady plot, there are plenty of trees for shade that will happily grow in an area of your backyard that doesn’t receive much sun.
Every backyard, no matter how small, should try and find space for a tree. They improve air quality, as well as being great element for sensory gardens, giving a mindful boost to our outdoor spaces.
Stink bugs might not be able to sting a person, but that still doesn’t make them ideal houseguests. In fact, they produce a liquid pheromone that not only smells terrible (like rotting fruit) but can also cause people to have allergic reactions like itchy, watery eyes, stuffy nose, a wheezing cough, and more. However, an essential oil or two is all it takes to repel these unattractive little guys away from your home.
Stink bugs have turned into quite the problem for farmers in the United States, as the invasive pest loves to nosh on a variety of crops and pretty much ruin them. Because of this, homes near farms are at greater risk for stink bugs to show up uninvited. The smartest thing to do if you know that stink bugs are hanging around is to keep doors and windows firmly shut so that they don’t wander in. Ideally, couple those preventative measures with a DIY stink bug repellant, which can be easily and affordably made — and has the added benefit of keeping your home smelling fresh.
he great news for fans of essential oils is that many of those tested are adept at repelling stink bug nymphs and adults alike. The best essential oils for stink bug prevention, according to a study published in the Journal of Applied Entomology, include lemongrass, spearmint, clove, and ylang-ylang. Additionally, an oil mixture composed of spearmint, clove, and lemongrass was also extremely effective, preventing almost all stink bugs from finding bug-attractant stations. While less effective, you can also try pennyroyal, rosemary, wintergreen, and geranium oils in your anti-stink bug potion.
So, how are you to use these essential oils to keep stink bugs from coming inside and setting up shop? If you know that they come into your home from one or a few certain access points, simply soak some cotton balls in the oil and place them in those locations. Or, make your own essential oil spray and spritz the likely entry points regularly to keep these bugs at bay. Lastly, place essential oil diffusers strategically near exit points and run them periodically. If you follow one or all of these tips, the house should remain free of these bugs — and their stink.
The schefflera amate is a beautiful tree native to the rainforests in Australia and New Guinea. It is a fast-growing tree that, when in its natural environment, can grow up to 65 feet tall.
Also known as the Australian umbrella tree, this lovely foliage with its glossy green leaves is also suitable as a houseplant.
In an indoor environment, the schefflera amate typically grows anywhere from five to ten feet, the average being eight.
Despite being a tropical plant, it adapts to numerous types of environments – one of the various reasons it makes a great indoor plant. Of course, its appearance certainly makes a wonderful addition to any home or office.
Two of the most important factors in placing a houseplant in your home are light and temperature. Know both the light requirements of your plant and the sources of light in your home (including amount and duration) in order to match a plant with its proper location. Too little light often causes faded leaves and flowers, stunted growth, and lack of flowers on flowering plants. Too much light can result in wilting, burning, and a washed-out appearance of leaves. Also be aware of temperature requirements of your plant. Air currents around windows and doors can produce cold drafts that some plants cannot tolerate. Information on light recommendations and minimum temperature requirements is often included with a plant at the time of purchase. Many houseplant reference books are also available that can provide this information.
When do I water my houseplant?
Water needs vary depending on the individual plant and the conditions under which it is grown. Small pots absorb water more quickly than large pots and clay pots more quickly than plastic. The stage of growth of a plant alters its water requirements as well. When a plant is actively growing it requires more water than during its slow growth periods (e.g., winter). Most plants fall under one of two watering categories; those that prefer evenly moist soil (soil should not be allowed to dry out) and those that should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. Insert a finger approximately one inch below the soil surface to feel for moisture. Water only if the soil is dry. Many plants, in particular succulents and cacti, need to be kept dry when they are not flowering. IMPROPER WATERING IS A PRIMARY CAUSE OF PLANT DEATH. Too little water can lead to stunted growth, wilting and eventual plant death. Excess water causes roots to suffocate and can contribute to problems with root rots, resulting in yellowing of foliage and eventual wilting or death of the plant.
How do I water my houseplant?
Before watering, make sure your plant’s pot has good drainage. During the season when your plant is actively growing, apply water until it starts to seep through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Allow the water to drain into the saucer for 10 to 20 minutes and remove the excess water from the saucer or elevate roots and soil above the drainage water. DO NOT allow a plant to stand in water unless this is a specific requirement for the plant. When using tap water, allow the water to sit for at least 24 hours prior to use to allow time for chlorine and fluoride (chemicals that can cause tip burn on many houseplants) to evaporate. For most plants, watering directly onto the soil surface with a narrow-spouted watering can is easiest. Some plants, such as African violets, do not like to have water splashed on their leaves. For these plants, pour water into the saucer and allow the plant to stand 20 to 30 minutes before removing any excess water.
How do I fertilize my houseplant?
Fertilizing your houseplant is important as it has a limited amount of soil from which to draw nutrients. Liquid fertilizers are commonly used on houseplants, although powdered and granulated fertilizers can also be used. Liquid fertilizers are often purchased as concentrates and must be diluted before being applied to a plant. Fertilization is only necessary during active growth; for most plants this is between spring and fall. Plants that bloom in the winter, however, should be fertilized before their flowering period. As a general rule, plants need to be fertilized once every one to two months. However, fertilizers vary in their usage pattern, so be sure to follow the label instructions for the product that you choose. Overfertilization of a plant can cause leaf damage (burn) and could potentially kill a plant. A general, complete houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20) is sufficient for many houseplants.
When do I repot my houseplant?
Watch for signs of a plant in need of repotting. A pot-bound plant left uncared for often has nutrient deficiency symptoms (e.g., yellowing) and stunted growth. The most obvious sign that a plant should be repotted is when roots appear on the soil surface or come out of drainage holes. A more subtle sign may be a plant with soil that dries more quickly than usual after watering, requiring more frequent watering. If you suspect you have a pot-bound plant, carefully pull the plant out of its pot and inspect the rootball. If the roots are loose and soil easily falls from them, repotting is not needed. Return the plant to its pot and gently firm the soil. If the rootball contains little loose soil and has an abundance of roots circling around the outside of the rootball, it is likely time to repot. Repot your plant at the beginning of active growth (spring for most plants), to allow roots a chance to establish before the winter. Generally, you should repot a plant into a pot that is one size larger than its current pot. If a pot is too large, the excess soil will hold water around the roots and create conditions that are favorable for root rots to develop. Make sure the pot you select has adequate drainage! Most houseplants do well in a general, soilless, houseplant potting mix. However, there are special potting mixes for growing orchids, cacti, and African violets. Potting mixes often contain a mixture of perlite, peat, vermiculite, and bark. If possible, avoid potting mixes that contain soil, as they oftentimes have poor drainage and may contain root rot-causing organisms.
How do I control pests and diseases on houseplants?
Preventing problems before they occur is the best method of control. Most pests and pathogens arrive on new plants, so be sure to inspect your plant thoroughly before taking it home. Check for signs of insects or pathogens by looking at the undersides of leaves, growing tips, and roots. Keep your new plant separated from other plants in the house for one to two weeks until you are sure it is pest-free. Keep plants well-maintained and inspect them regularly to avoid pest outbreaks. In general, if you do have a pest or disease problem, the earlier you find the problem, the easier it is to manage. If an outbreak is in an isolated area of the plant (e.g., on a single leaf), that portion can be pruned to remove the problem. Insects or insect-like pests (e.g., spider mites) that thrive in hot and dry conditions can often be controlled by adjusting environmental conditions. For example, cooling the air or misting a plant can eliminate conditions that are favorable for the development of spider mites. Periodically running lukewarm water over houseplants in the sink or shower can help clean dust and insects off of leaves and leach excess salts from the soil. Make sure pots have adequate drainage to prevent soil from saturating. Root rot pathogens thrive in wet soils with poor aeration and drainage, and their presence is likely a sign of overwatering. The growth of the gray mold fungus, Botrytis cinerea is more common under cool, damp conditions. Adjusting the environment so that a plant is warmer and drier may help prevent or reduce problems with this disease. If further control is needed, pesticide sprays can be effective; however, a proper diagnosis of your plant’s problem is needed before any pesticides are applied.
Plants serve an architectural function by defining the floors, walls and ceilings of our outdoor rooms. Plants can also serve an architectural function by highlighting or masking architectural features of a house or building.
Plants serve an engineering function by: influencing how we walk through the landscape; blocking objectionable views on or off the property; establishing buffers between divergent activities; and minimizing drainage or erosion issues.
You must decide how your plants will best function in your landscape. Here are some ideas.
Arranging plants in your garden… It’s one of those things that many beginner gardeners really, really struggle with. But today I’m going to show you four simple ways that you can arrange plants in your landscape for that beautiful, layered look that you want. Use these methods to create a more professional and organic looking garden at home.
I live in Wisconsin, home of the Frozen Tundra. Last winter was brutal. Green Bay certainly lived up to its nickname of the Frozen Tundra! Below zero temps, ice storms and it just seemed to linger.
Our plants wouldn’t survive outdoors. So, we have two choices, throw them out or bring them indoors. Time to try an overwintering method.
Steps For Overwintering
1.) Remove each individual geranium plant from the soil and shake off the dirt.
2.) Cut the greens and stems back to around 2 inches.
3.) Place all the plants in a paper bag and store in a dark space. I stored mine in a hallway closet.
4.) Set a reminder on your calendar or phone once a month to take your plants out and spray them down. Place them on a towel for a quick dry. Return to bag and dark place.
5.) 4-6 weeks before you wish to plant your geraniums take them out and place them in a jar of water in a sunny window.
6.) Your stems will green up and you will see growth. After your plants start to form buds, plant in pots.
7.) Slowly expose your geraniums back to the elements.
The steps above are really THAT simple. It works extremely well for those of us that can’t keep geraniums healthy enough indoors. I do believe my plants have doubled in size from last year using this method of overwintering geraniums. I only lost 5 plants out of 42 plants. Small potatoes for me. Most certainly, will be doing this method next year as well. I don’t have to lug the pots up and down the stairs. Booyah!
Naturally, fungi produce air-borne spores that can dwell on any surface. For them to thrive, the environmental conditions have to be favorable. This typically means hot, humid, and rainy weather, but some mold prefer the colder temperatures of winter months. Fungal attacks in your garden can look like necrosis, powdery mildew, rotting, leaf blight, and much more. Before these diseases ravage your precious garden, quickly use a baking soda and soap solution to banish that fungus.
The alkaline baking soda mixture will fend off the fungi
Prepare your fungus-punisher by mixing 1 teaspoon of baking soda with 3 drops of dish liquid soap and 1 liter of water. Use this same ratio depending on how large the infected area is. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and let loose on the affected plants and grass to inhibit the activity of the fungi. This works like a charm because most fungi variants survive in highly acidic environments. Since baking soda is alkaline, it increases the pH of the surface, making the living conditions unfavorable for the fungi.
To ensure that the mold doesn’t return to your garden, there are some measures you can imbibe into your care routine. Start watching when and how you water your garden. Too much moisture is a breeding ground for fungi. The best time to water your garden is usually in the morning so the excess can dry up during the day. If you water your garden at night, the ground will likely stay soaked. Also, avoid watering directly onto the plant. You want to water the ground, not the leaves. You should also give your plants some breathing room. No one likes to stay in a cramped space and neither do your veggies and herbs. Plants are living and breathing organisms, too, and with all those gasses moving around, you can bet that fungal infections would spread quickly.
When to cut back your ornamental grass is governed by the type of grass and your personal preference. You can do the job in the fall after the foliage dies, or leave it in place through the winter and cut it back in the spring.
Some ornamental grasses will remain attractive through the better part of the winter.
And at a time when the rest of the landscape is rather dreary, long grasses swaying in the breeze can add some visual interest. Plus, their seed heads can provide food for wildlife.
Before Getting Started
Ornamental grasses are grouped into three categories: warm season, cool season, and evergreen. Some evergreen “grasses,” including seges and carex, aren’t really in the grass family, and these don’t need pruning (though they can be divided if they get unruly). But how do you know which type of ornamental grass you have, and when to prune it?
Cool season grasses grow primarily in spring before the temperatures exceed 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and in fall when temperatures cool. These grasses keep their color throughout the heat of summer without much growth. Cool season grasses should be cut back in very early spring. As soon as the snow clears, cut the grass back by two-thirds, leaving one-third in place. Pruning too drastically can harm the plant. Some examples of cool season grasses include fescues, blue oat grass (Helictotrichon), tufted air grass (Deschampsia), and autumn moor grass (Sesleria).
Warm-season grasses begin growing in mid to late spring, or even early summer. They thrive when the temperatures rise, with major growth and flowering occurring during summer’s heat. Warm-season grasses turn brown in winter. If you prefer a tidy garden, or if your ornamental grass is a variety that doesn’t look great dormant, cut back these grasses in fall. However, many grasses add terrific winter interest in the landscape, adding movement and texture when much of the garden is asleep. If you want to keep some interest in your garden throughout the winter, cut back these grasses in mid to late spring.
When you prune these warm-season grasses, cut them severely, right down to the ground. Some common warm-season grasses include northern sea oats (Chasmanthium), Japanese silver grass (Miscanthus sp.), hardy pampas grass (Erianthus), perennial fountain grass (Pennisetum), switchgrass (Panicum), and prairie cordgrass (Spartina).
For the tools you’ll need and how to do it, copy and paste the link below.
How and When to Cut Back Ornamental Grasses (thespruce.com)
WARNING
If you live in a region where wildfires are endemic, use ornamental grasses with caution. Rather than allowing the dead grasses to remain for their ornamental appeal, it’s best to remove the foliage promptly at the end of the growing season. Few plants burn more fiercely than a large clump of dried grasses. When planting ornamental grasses, keep them well away from your home and other structures. In some regions, authorities now caution against planting ornamental grasses at all—as well as any other plants likely to burn easily.
Fall is a beautiful time of year, but it comes with a list of chores to be done before the snow flies. Is raking leaves one of those chores? Maybe, maybe not. If you have trees dropping leaves on your lawn grass, in many cases there is no need to incur blisters by raking them up. Leaves have nutrients, which can be recycled into your lawn. The concern is if your leaf layer is very thick and will smother the grass.
If you have just a few leaves, such as 20 percent of the lawn covered, you can just ignore them. They will blow around, settle in, and break down on their own. If you have a moderate amount of leaves, such as 50 percent coverage, you still don’t need to rake. Simply run your lawn mower over them to chop them into smaller pieces so they can settle between the grass blades where they will decompose over time and release nutrients for your lawn to use next year.
If you have a thick layer of leaves, where you can barely see any signs of grass beneath them, then it’s best if you remove some of the leaves to prevent matting and smothering of the grass. Rake or otherwise remove at least half of them. You don’t need to get every last leaf, but if you remove a significant amount of them, then you can mow the rest up and leave them on the lawn. Those raked up leaves can be a valuable resource, and used in composting, winter mulching, or saved until spring for mulching in vegetable or flower gardens.
The one caveat to leaving tree leaves where they fall is if your trees have had serious foliar fungal diseases. While most leaf spots on leaves are cosmetic and harmless to the overall health of the tree, fallen diseased leaves do serve as a source for spores that can infect next year’s emerging leaves. Significantly diseased leaves should be raked and removed from the area and disposed of properly, such as by burying, burning where allowed, or hot composting.
Of course, one good reason to rake up leaves is to have a pile to jump and play in! But if you only have a moderate amount of leaves on your lawn, quickly mow them up and spend your time doing the other things on your pre-winter chore list.
Article By: Diana Alfuth for hort.extension.wisc.edu
