Check out these 2 of our favorite tall ornamental grass choices to add privacy to a deck or patio without a fence.
1. Fountain Grass
Fountain grass is a non-invasive tall perennial grass that grows in clumps.
The ornamental grass bears leaves that seem like a fountain, and the foxtail-looking flowers are of tan, pink, or purple makes an elegant statement.
More pragmatically, ornamental grass can create privacy and a sense of enclosure in a larger space.
The grass enjoys warm climates under the full sun but can still grow on slightly shaded areas.
The soil has to be well-draining because it doesn’t like moist soil.
Fertilized soil is not a requirement but a good start if you grow this.
Fountain grass is a popular choice since it is known to be an easy-to-grow plant in the garden.
Quick Plant Info
Botanical Name: Pennisetum Alopecuroides
Water Need: Regular
Sun Need: Full Sun
Maximum Height: 3-4 Feet
Pruning: Yes, Cut Off Old And Dead Foliage Before New Leaves Come
Care: Divide The Established Plant During Spring Every 2 To 3 Years In Early Spring.
Agricultural Zone: 4-9
2. Chinese Silver Grass
A tall ornamental grass that changes color from season to season.
Also known as maiden grass, it is normally green grass with brown and white flowers. The stem reddens in fall, and the green leaves change from yellow to beige. All seasons, the grass is a beautiful addition to the garden.
M. sinensis prefers soil with good drainage but keeping it relatively moist. When the plant matures, it will become a drought-tolerant grass needing less water.
The plant grows in a cluster but is considered invasive in some parts of the U.S.
Quick Plant Info
Botanical Name: Miscanthus sinensis
Water need: Occasionally
Sun need: Full sun
Maximum height: 6-10 feet
Pruning: Yes, during spring. Cut off foliage where new buds pop.
Care: Divide the established plant into four parts to avoid overcrowding.
Ornamental grass varieties are a wonderful addition to any landscape. They provide color, texture, beauty and interest the whole year round. Especially when left in tact through late fall and early winter.
Cutting back grasses while they are dormant gives you the opportunity to dig up oversize clumps to divide them into new starts. New starts that will hit the ground growing as soon as spring rolls around!
Cutting back grasses is actually quite simple, especially if you have the right equipment. Although you can cut grasses back by hand with shears, a battery powered reciprocating saw or hedge trimmer will work wonders to speed things up. Electric shears, hedge trimmers and even a chain saw will work as well.
Although grasses can be cut all the way to ground level, leaving a few inches above the ground is best. It not only keeps a bit of interest in the landscape, but gives a nice base for the new shoots to have for support.
How To Divide Clumps To Form New Plants:
When clumps become too large, late winter / early spring is the time to divide to create new plants. Ornamental grasses grow from the inside out. That means new growth will always occur on the outside rings of the clumps, while the center of old clumps dies off.
Begin by digging out the entire root ball of the clump. If it is too large, it can be dug out in sections. The center dead portions can be put directly into the compost pile.
Take a sharp spade to slice through the roots, and then simply replant where needed. As the weather warms in springs, each clump will produce a new plant.
Now it’s time to create new plants! You can create quite a few new starts from an old clump. A sharp shovel or the reciprocating saw makes quick work of splitting them up.
Simply dig a hole for each new clump, and cover around with soil. They do not require any additional soil amending or fertilizers at all. Come spring, they will be ready to grow!
Ornamental grass cuttings are also great to use as focal points in container plantings as well. Simply plant into the center of a big container, and as spring rolls around, it will come to life.
Source: How & Why To Cut Back Ornamental Grasses In Late Winter / Early Spring (oldworldgardenfarms.com)
Swathes of tall, wafting grasses look wonderful in large gardens, but they can also be used to great effect in a small space.
It pays to be bold when using ornamental grasses, which tend to work best dotted throughout border schemes, mingling with other plants. Many will look good until the end of autumn, undergoing subtle color changes as the seasons progress.
The grass family is one of the largest in the plant kingdom, having evolved to cope with every conceivable soil and site. This means you can choose species that suit your garden conditions, as well as your taste.
Our pick of grasses for small gardens
Molinia caerulea
Our native purple moor grass, Molinia caerulea first flowers in May and adopts subtle shades of green, blue and purple. However, as its flower stems head skyward they change to gold, and when they extend and open, they start to shimmer. The plants that make the greatest impact are bred from the subspecies Molinia caerulea subsp. arundinacea, which is much taller. Molinias are the most versatile of grasses, and the changes in light from dawn to dusk, or from storm to glorious sunshine, give them different guises. Plant them against a dark background to enjoy the full benefit of their sunlit golden stems, but make sure you can see them silhouetted against a brilliant blue autumn sky, too.
Molinia caerulea ‘Edith Dudszus’ bears vertical, needle-like foliage and refined upright flower stems, this molinia forms a compact clump that’s ideal for a small space. You can also see through it, to other treats growing behind.
Flowers: July-November Height x Spread: 75cm x 50cm
Molinia caerulea subsp. caerulea ‘Edith Dudszus’
Miscanthus sinensis
The two best reasons for growing miscanthus are their statuesque presence in the garden and their magnificent flowerheads, or inflorescences. They last for months, making a striking feature from late summer into winter. Some cultivars, such as ‘Flamingo’ have silky pink flowers that cascade softly, while others, such as ‘Nippon’, have more upright spikes in a deep bronze-red. Neither of these is too big for a small garden and there are several other compact varieties. ‘Kleine Fontäne’ and ‘Kleine Silberspinne’ both grow to shoulder height. They bring light, air and movement into even the tiniest garden and since they grow upwards, they take up no more space than a clump of hardy geraniums.
Flowers: July-November H x S: 120cm x 50cm
Miscanthus sinensis Kleine Silberspinne Little
Imperata cylindrica
A brilliant addition to any hot-colored planting, Imperata cylindrica spreads by underground rhizomes, but grows so slowly that it will never wander too far in our climate. Give it deep, fertile soil with plenty of humus to keep it happy.
Flowers: June-August H x S: 50cm x 50cm
Imperata cylindrica ‘Red Baron’
Hakonechloa macra
With its long-pointed leaves, Hakonechloa macra must be the most elegant of grasses. It’s always impeccably groomed, with never a blade out of place. Brilliant in containers, it’s probably most effective when giving a solo performance. Grow it in sun or part-shade.
Flowers: July-September H x S: 35cm x 40cm
Hakonechloa macra
Melica uniflora
One of the prettiest grasses for shade, its dainty owers are widely spaced along its branching stems. It’s a woodlander and if you choose the variegated form, the silvery tones of the foliage and inflorescences will stand out even more in shade.
Flowers: May-July H x S: 40cm x 40cm
Wood melick (Melica uniflora)
Milium effusum ‘Aureum’
Milium effusum is ideal for adding zingy color to a shady border. It self-seeds readily and looks especially effective in spring, when the dark ground is sprinkled with bright new seedlings. In summer its dainty owerheads dance on the breeze.
Flowers: May-July H x S: 60cm x 30cm
Milium effusum ‘Aureum’
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’ is covered in fluffy flowerheads from midsummer onwards. Despite its delicate appearance, it’s totally hardy and extremely tolerant, even of heavy, damp soil.
Flowers: July-September H x S: 120cm x 100cm
Hameln grasses
Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’
Pennisetum orientale
If you have dry, hot conditions, you may get away with growing pennisetums. Pennisetum orientale has arching, fluffy heads of pink and crimson, wonderful with a dark sedum. Anpther one to try is Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Herbstzauber’. Its multiple fluffy flowerheads look like furry caterpillars.
Pennisetum orientale
How to grow ornamental grasses
Raising from seed – scatter seeds over the surface of damp seed compost and cover lightly with grit. Once the seedlings are sturdy enough, prick them out into modular trays and grow them on.
Dividing plants – many grasses can be increased by division but do this in spring – never in autumn or winter. With some grasses, lift the whole clump, then pull or chop it into pieces. It’s best to pot up the resulting divisions, rather than planting them straight into the ground, as they will have a much higher chance of survival.
Growing in pots – when planting in containers, use a loam-based compost and make sure there’s good drainage. Generally, grasses don’t need feeding, but in containers an occasional dose of a weak liquid fertilizer will help them thrive.
Cutting back – never cut back evergreen grasses – simply comb out dead growth with your fingers. Molinias don’t need cutting back, as they simply collapse, however miscanthus, calamagrostis and panicums should be cut down to the base in spring.
