If you want to start a garden, but you don’t have time to tend to one, turn to a system that’s been growing in popularity for its eco-friendly and low maintenance reputation: gravel gardens. It’s a form of xeric gardening—planting with water conservation in mind—that uses small pebbles in place of soil amendments and mulch.

What Is a Gravel Garden?

As the name implies, a gravel garden is an area of land where mostly native plants grow in a bordered section of gravel. A sustainable alternative to some other gardening systems, gravel gardens require about 80% less maintenance than a typical perennial garden. “When we create these, we want to create a garden that will be good on its own.  Basically, without the input of additional water, fertilizer, and other chemicals that you would use to protect your plants,” says Jeff Epping, director of horticulture at Olbrich Botanical Gardens.

Their ability to flourish with very little water and zero soil amendments also means you don’t need to worry about weed growth. “A lot of weeds that we experience thrive in very rich, moist soils,” Epping says. The dry environment of a gravel garden means weed seeds don’t have what they need to germinate, grow, and thrive.

While it may seem like you need a green thumb to be able to grow plant matter in rocks, even beginners can start a gravel garden. Best of all, the environment you’ll create is highly attractive for perennials, bulbs, grasses, and other types of native plants.

How to Create a Gravel Garden

Anyone can create a gravel garden.  However, they’re especially ideal for people who have a hard time keeping plants alive due to harsh growing conditions.  Conditions like dry soil and full sun. And of course, they’re perfect for anyone looking for a relatively hands-off approach to gardening.

Does this sound like the right fit for you and your home? If so, we recommend starting your gravel garden in the spring, which is the best time to plant and establish greenery. “Start out small and see how it goes for you if you don’t want to jump in full force,” Epping says.

Find the Right Location

Like many gardening projects, you’ll need to be thoughtful about where you place your gravel garden. It can be as simple as a small plot of land in your backyard—or you can make one that takes over your entire landscape. “They’re great for areas that may already be experiencing conditions that make them hot and dry,” says Josh Williams.  He is garden manager at Paul J. Ciener Botanical Garden. He says an area that receives full sun is ideal.

The soil

Also consider the type of soil you’re working with—soils that are harder to grow in (think too rocky or harder clay) would work well for a gravel garden. No matter your dirt’s composition, a successful gravel garden should always have well-drained soil.

The drainage

Select a sunny, open site with decent drainage—an area along a driveway, sidewalk, south side of a home, or front curb is ideal. Remove any existing lawn or plantings, making sure to get rid of tenacious weeds with extensive root systems that may come back to haunt you later. This is typically done with a sod cutter, by smothering with cardboard or plastic, or with a nonselective herbicide. Existing drought-tolerant shrubs can be left and designed into the garden.

Outline the space and note key measurements. Start a wish list of plants including both grasses and perennials. Consider the plant height and strive for a palette that offers a succession of blooms. Next, determine the square footage—then use an online gravel and plant calculator to do the math of what you need to buy.

Install an Edge and Spread the Gravel

Enclose the space with a solid border or hard edge. Medium stones, large boulders, or stacked pavers work well. Also, a foundation of a building, a driveway, an existing sidewalk works well.  Just be sure there’s a rim tall enough to retain a 5-inch layer of gravel. If gravel tapers off at the edges of your garden, weeds will easily find their way into the soil below and germinate.

The choice of gravel matters a lot. Picture marbles in a jar—pieces of stone that are all relatively the same size and shape and retain some movement and air space between them. Pea gravel or washed ¼- to ⅜-inch quartzite or granite-chip gravel are good choices. Avoid larger gravel; organic matter will build up in the openings between stones, inviting weeds. Before pouring in the gravel, drive in stakes every 3 to 5 feet and mark them at 5 inches, to ensure a consistent gravel layer. Too deep, and the plants perform poorly. Too shallow and weed seedlings will take hold in the soil below.

Place Your Plants and Develop an Irrigation Plan

Select drought-tolerant, deep-rooting species in 3½- to 4½-inch pots.  Their 4-inch root balls are the perfect size to be gently molded to match the depth of the gravel layer. Space plants 12 to 16 inches apart. Loosen tight roots if needed, and peel off the top ½ to 1 inch of soil mix to rid yourself of dormant weed seeds. (Put this excess potting soil in a bucket—never mix it in with the gravel.) Dig a hole in the gravel, taking care not to stir up the soil below. Insert the plant, making sure the crown is even with or just below the surface of the gravel. You will have a sea of gravel with dots of green, but don’t despair. In a couple of years, you (and wildlife) will enjoy a diverse tapestry of lush, colorful plants, and the gravel will lie hidden below, doing its job of controlling your weeds.

The key to a good start is water, water, and more water. This seems contrary to the whole gravel garden concept, but the water requirement changes as the plants root into the soil below the gravel. This may mean daily watering on sunny, hot, windy days the first two years. The best way to know when it’s time to water is by monitoring the plants each morning. Consider rigging up a temporary irrigation system the first season with hoses and impact sprinklers.

Spring cleaning

For both aesthetic and horticultural reasons, it’s imperative to do a thorough spring cleaning. Each March, cut back and remove all spent plant material before it has a chance to decompose. Organic debris trapped in the gravel creates nutrient-rich pockets where weed seeds readily germinate. Finish by blowing the gravel surface clean to remove lingering debris and keep the gravel free of organic matter.

Great Plants for a Gravel Garden

Many different types of plants can grow in a gravel garden, including bulbs, perennials, and grasses. Since gravel gardens are meant to thrive with little water, look for plants that are drought tolerant. Also choose varieties that have deep root systems, which can pull moisture from all levels of the soil.

When in doubt, opt for native plants, which are often drought tolerant and attract pollinators, like bees and butterflies. “The best plants for gravel gardens often are our very own native prairie plants because they are very drought tolerant by nature and have deep root systems,” Epping affirms.

Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

Little Bluestem (Schizachyrium Scoparium)

Purple Sensation (Allium Hollandicum)

Autumn Joy (Sedum Herbstfreude)

Pale Purple Coneflower (Echinacea Pallida)

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia Hirta)

English Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia)

October Skies (Aster Oblongifolium)

Eastern Beebalm (Monarda Bradburiana)

February Gold (Cyclamineus Daffodil)

Gravel Garden Care

While the overarching goal of a gravel garden is to make it relatively low maintenance, extra nurturing is required when you’re starting out to help plants get established. After that, some simple annual care is all you’ll need to provide.

If you embark on a gravel garden, know that the biggest investment and hardest work happen in the first two years, when more watering is required. But after that, your landscape largely takes care of itself.

Source:  midwestliving.com; marthastewart.com

Photo credit:  Jeff Epping

Related reading:  2027 Garden Trends – TUTORING YOU

Something is shifting in American gardens — and by 2027 it will be impossible to ignore. The perfectly manicured lawn surrounded by symmetrical shrubs is giving way to something looser, wilder, and far more interesting. Naturalistic planting, climate-resilient design, and outdoor spaces built for genuine living are converging into a new mainstream. If you are planning what to grow and how to shape your outdoor space these are the trends worth understanding.

What Is Driving 2027 Garden Trends?

Three forces are reshaping American gardens simultaneously. First, climate reality: hotter summers, unpredictable rainfall, and longer droughts are making high-maintenance, water-hungry gardens less viable. Second, ecological awareness: research linking garden plant choices to wildlife decline has moved from academic papers into mainstream gardening media. Third, a post-pandemic desire for outdoor spaces that function as genuine extensions of the home rather than spaces to admire from a distance.

The result is a garden aesthetic that values resilience over control, abundance over minimalism, and ecological contribution alongside beauty. The following six trends represent where this convergence is leading in 2027.

Trend 1: Keystone Native Plants Anchor the Ecologically Aware Garden

The most significant research shaping 2027 gardens comes from University of Delaware entomologist Dr. Doug Tallamy.  His team identified that just 14% of native plant species support 90% of all butterfly and moth caterpillars in the United States. Tallamy calls these plants “keystones” — and the implications for home gardeners are profound .

The oak is the undisputed superstar. A single native oak tree supports up to 897 caterpillar species, making it the most ecologically productive plant in North America. Willows, birches, and wild cherries are not far behind. In the herbaceous layer, goldenrods and asters support hundreds of specialist bee species and form the backbone of late-season pollinator habitat. Milkweed, long championed for monarch butterflies, earns its place in any ecologically minded border.

The beauty of keystone plants

What makes keystone planting more than an ecological checkbox is that these plants are beautiful. Native asters bloom in waves of purple and white in September and October when almost nothing else is flowering. Goldenrods provide warm yellow structure from late summer into fall and their seed heads carry texture through winter. A garden centered on keystone plants is not a sacrifice of beauty — it is a reframing of what beauty means.

In practice, most gardeners start with one or two keystone trees if space allows, then build in herbaceous keystones as understory and border plants. Even replacing a single lawn ornamental with a native goldenrod or swamp milkweed measurably increases the wildlife value of your yard. Landscapes with keystone plants support 70 to 75% more caterpillar species than landscapes with similar numbers of non-keystone natives. In addition, the choice of species matters at least as much as the decision to garden with natives at all.

Trend 2: Prairie and New Perennial Planting Reaches the Suburbs

For twenty years, Piet Oudolf’s naturalistic planting style has influenced designers while remaining aspirational for most homeowners. In 2027, it is coming to suburban back yards.

The New Perennial Movement, as it is known, plants grasses as the structural skeleton of a border, with flowering perennials rising through them in naturalistic drifts. The RHS describes this as “matrix planting.” Basically, its a base layer of one or two grasses woven tightly enough to crowd out weeds, through which primary flowering plants emerge.  Moreover, for structural impact and scattered plants added for naturalistic, spontaneous character. This layered approach is what creates the movement, transparency, and seasonal drama that defines the look.

For US gardeners, the key is matching grasses to climate. Switchgrass varieties such as Panicum ‘Northwind’ (4 to 5 feet, olive-green, vertical habit) and ‘Shenandoah’ (which turns brilliant red in fall) are native to North American prairies and USDA Zones 5 to 9. Maiden grass cultivars — particularly Miscanthus ‘Morning Light’ with its fine-textured silver striping — add height and feathery plumes from August through winter. Little bluestem is the workhorse of shorter prairie plantings, reaching 2 to 3 feet and turning copper-orange in fall.

Threading through the grasses are echinacea (coneflower) in its many forms, rudbeckia, calamintha, and echinops. These are the plants that earn their place all season long.  In short, they flower in summer, provide seed heads for birds in fall and skeletal structure through winter. The beauty of prairie-style planting is that it looks better as it ages, as self-seeding and natural spread gradually knit the planting together.

Trend 3: The Modern Cottage Garden — Wilder, Tougher, More Ecological

Cottage gardening never really went away, but the version gaining ground in 2027 is different from its predecessors. As an example, the traditional English cottage border relied on constant deadheading, staking, and replanting. Whereas the modern interpretation embraces self-seeding, structural plants, and a looseness that would have made Victorian gardeners’ wince.

Hollyhocks are enjoying a full revival, and it is not hard to see why.  Tall, architectural, tolerant of poor soil, and prolific self-seeders that establish a permanent presence once they are happy. Foxgloves follow the same logic. They attract bumblebees more effectively than almost any other garden plant.  In addition, seed themselves through borders and create vertical drama that most perennials cannot match. These are the backbone plants of the new cottage aesthetic.   They are among the classic cottage garden flowers that have stood the test of time for exactly these qualities.

More plants

The supporting cast has shifted. Verbascum, with its tall felted spires in yellow, apricot, and white, adds similar vertical interest with even greater drought tolerance. Nepeta (catmint) softens path edges and suppresses weeds while supporting bees from May through September. Fennel and other umbellifers bring height and airyness and attract parasitic wasps that naturally control aphid populations. Together these plants create a border that actively manages itself, becoming richer year on year. Chiefly, as self-seeding fills gaps and creates the unstudied, romantic effect that is the hallmark of the style.

The color palette is shifting too. Where pastels dominated cottage gardens for decades, 2027 is seeing a move toward jewel tones.  That is, rich plums, deep burgundies, and burnt oranges alongside the traditional pinks and whites. This is partly an aesthetic evolution and partly climate-driven. Because of warmer nights favor the deep anthocyanin pigments that produce these colors in flowers like helenium, crocosmia, and dark-flowered echinacea.

Trend 4: Wildflower Meadows Replace the Perfect Lawn

The era of the chemically maintained, uniformly green lawn is ending. Penn State Extension research estimates that over 24 million acres of lawn surround American homes.  Basically, a monoculture that supports virtually no wildlife, requires constant inputs, and provides nothing beyond aesthetics. In 2027, a growing number of homeowners are converting at least a portion of that lawn to wildflower meadow, prairie planting, or low-mow alternatives.

The ecological and maintenance case for conversion is compelling. Unlike a lawn that needs weekly mowing from April through October, an established perennial meadow requires mowing just once or twice a year. Thus, typically, in late February or early March before new growth begins. Penn State Extension notes that perennial meadows take two to three years to fully establish as plants develop deep root systems.  Thereafter are virtually self-sustaining.  However, annual wildflower mixes provide immediate color in year one but require replanting.

Wildflower meadow

For a native wildflower meadow that supports both beauty and wildlife, the foundational species are black-eyed Susan, purple coneflower (echinacea), and blazing star in the flowering layer. Big bluestem and little bluestem serve as the grass framework. Butterfly milkweed fills the critical monarch corridor role and draws admirers even from people who would not normally describe themselves as wildflower enthusiasts.

Site preparation remains the most critical factor. Existing lawn needs to be fully removed, whether by solarization, sod removal, or smothering. This must be completed before meadow seed or plugs go in. Skipping this step is the most common reason first-year meadow plantings fail.  Chiefly because lawn grasses will overwhelm wildflower seedlings if they are not eliminated first.

Trend 5: Garden Rooms and the Outdoor Living Revolution

One of the most durable trends of the past five years is the garden as an extension of interior living space.   In 2027 it is maturing from a nice idea into a mainstream design principle. The key shift is that outdoor living areas are no longer carved out of garden space. They are designed as rooms within it, surrounded by planting rather than separated from it.

The fire pit

The fire pit has become the anchor of this trend. Where outdoor fireplaces were once associated with large, purpose-built patios, fire bowls and simple fire pits now sit within planting. Then, surrounded by ornamental grasses, perennials, and low shrubs that bring the living garden right up to the gathering space. This integration of hardscaping and naturalistic planting is the defining visual of 2027 outdoor design. The effect is intimate and enveloping in a way that a fire pit placed on an isolated patio never achieves.

Materials

Material choices reflect the broader move toward warmth and naturalism. The cool grays and black steel that dominated outdoor spaces for much of the 2010s are going away.  Replaced by warm tones inspired by natural stone, weathered clay, and corten steel that develops a rust patina over time. Permeable paving and gravel paths break up hard surfaces and allow rain infiltration, which is increasingly important in gardens designed for climate resilience.

Outdoor Rooms

Vertical elements — archways, pergolas, living walls — are being used to create the sense of a ceiling in outdoor rooms.  As a result transforming open space into something that feels genuinely sheltered. Climbers like clematis, climbing roses, and native coral honeysuckle are the obvious choices for structures.  But tall ornamental grasses and hedges of native shrubs like spicebush or native viburnums are increasingly used to build enclosure with ecological value built in.

Trend 6: Climate-Resilient Edibles Woven Into Ornamental Borders

The sharp boundary between kitchen garden and ornamental garden is dissolving. In 2027, heat-tolerant and drought-resistant edibles are being planted directly into mixed borders, combining the productive and the beautiful in the same space. This reflects both aesthetic evolution and practical necessity as summer temperatures in much of the US make traditional cool-season vegetable gardens increasingly difficult to maintain.

Ornamentals

Sweet potatoes are among the most ornamental of these dual-purpose plants. Whereas trailing purple-leaved varieties like ‘Blackie’ and ‘Sweet Caroline Purple’ make exceptional border edging that happens to produce a harvest. Moreover, fava beans, traditionally a spring crop, are being grown as structural plants in borders where their blue-green foliage and black-and-white flowers are decorative assets before they are a food source. Pigeon peas, a heat-tolerant legume familiar in Southern US gardens, grow into substantial shrubs that fix nitrogen and produce edible seeds.

Beyond these novelties, the trend toward blending ornamentals with food plants is being driven by a more fundamental shift: the recognition that a garden which is only beautiful is underperforming. Gardens that produce food, support pollinators, and look exceptional at the same time represent the most complete expression of what 2027 gardening is trying to achieve.

What Is Out in 2027

Trends always have a flip side. Understanding what is fading is as useful as knowing what is rising, particularly when making decisions about where to invest time and money in your garden.

Stark gray minimalism. The all-gray hardscape with minimal planting that dominated design in the 2010s is being replaced by what designers are calling “warm minimalism.” Structured but warmer in palette, with more generous planting to soften hard surfaces.

The over-manicured lawn. Not lawn itself — a modest, well-placed lawn still has a role as a resting space and visual foil for plantings.  However, the chemically maintained, geometrically perfect lawn that was the suburban aspiration for a century is out. Climate costs and changing aesthetics are both pushing against it.

Mass plantings of a single annual. The bedding-plant approach, petunias in rows, impatiens as a carpet, is being replaced by layered, mixed plantings.  These change through the season rather than being ripped out and replaced twice a year. It is a better use of resources and creates more interesting gardens.

Black garden accents. Black fencing, black planters, and black outdoor furniture that dominated garden aesthetics for half a decade are giving way to warmer neutrals — stone, clay, and wood tones that sit more comfortably alongside naturalistic planting.

Key Takeaways for 2027

The overarching direction of 2027 garden trends is toward gardens that do more than look good. Keystone native plants support wildlife at a scale that no ornamental alternative can match. Prairie-style planting delivers year-round structure without seasonal replanting. Modern cottage gardens self-seed and self-manage more effectively than their predecessors. Wildflower meadows replace the ecological wasteland of a maintained lawn. Garden rooms surround gatherers with planting rather than separating them from it. Climate-resilient edibles earn their space both aesthetically and productively.

These trends are not competing with each other — they are converging. The garden that combines a native tree or two with a prairie-style border, a section of wildflower meadow in place of lawn, and an outdoor room planted with grasses and perennials is doing all of these things simultaneously. That integration — naturalistic, ecological, beautiful, and practical — is what a great 2027 garden looks like. And the plants that anchor it, from keystone oaks and golden asters to echinacea and self-seeding foxgloves, are among the most reliable and rewarding garden plants you can grow.

Source:  bloomingexpert.com©

Related reading:  Creating Dazzling Drought-Tolerant Gardens – TUTORING YOU

You can save 20 to 50 percent of the water you are currently applying to your garden and landscape plants and actually improve their health, productivity, and appearance.

Many people think that to save water they need to replace their current landscape with strictly “drought tolerant” plants and perhaps remove their lawn altogether. While drought tolerant landscapes and lawn removal could be useful options, they are just two of the many strategies that can be employed to reduce water use.

By employing the full range of water-saving strategies, you can grow most plants adequately while still realizing substantial water savings.  Remember that trees provide beauty, shade, cooling, privacy, and oxygen. They can
also significantly increase property value. Even when water is in short supply, taking care of your trees should be a high priority.

TRY THESE WATER-WISE TIPS:

• When selecting plants, consider their climatic suitability for the site. There are many books and other publications you can consult for recommended plants in your area.

• Check your sprinkler system for leaks and make necessary repairs to ensure even distribution and avoid water loss.

• Water early in the morning before sunrise to reduce evaporation.

• Avoid watering during windy times of the day to reduce uneven distribution, evaporation, and water waste.

• Control weeds, which compete for water, light, and nutrients.

• Fertilize moderately, applying the low end of recommended rates, to avoid excessive growth, which increases the need for water.

Mulch

• Apply 3 to 4 inches of mulch around trees and other woody plants, keeping it a few inches away from trunks and stems. Mulches reduce water evaporation from soil, buffer soil temperatures, and reduce weeds. Renew or apply mulches in late spring when soils have warmed up and water demands are increasing. Use backyard compost, decomposed lawn clippings, shredded bark, fir bark, composted manure, or other bagged products.

Decorative gravel can even be used in places not subject to soil cultivation. Remember to water through the mulch and into the root zone.

• Reduce runoff on slopes by cycling water in several short intervals. Apply water only until runoff begins. Wait an equal amount of time then repeat watering until runoff begins again. Repeat this cycling until the soil has
been moistened to about one foot deep. Clay and other heavy sols are especially prone to runoff. Use low-flow sprinklers (less than 1/2-inch output per hour).

Trees

• Prune trees and other woody plants only when necessary. Pruning stimulates shoot growth, which increases the need for water.

• Water trees and other woody plants separately from the lawn, if possible. Chiefly because it is best to water them less frequently but more deeply than lawns. A garden hose, mini- or micro sprinklers, deep-root irrigator, or drip emitters all work well for trees and other woody plants.

• To help promote a deep root system, water trees and other woody plants to a depth of 2 feet.  You can use a soil probe, screwdriver, auger, or straightened coat hanger to find out how deep the water reached. These
tools will readily penetrate a moist soil but will resist penetration in dry soil.

• Consider installing a drip system that applies water through emitters directly at the root zone where it is needed most and not wasted.

Watering your type of soil

• The type of soil you have largely determines how often you should water. Clay soils hold much more water than sandier ones but take it up more slowly. Also, they can go longer between waterings than sandy
soils. Clay soils may only need to be watered once during a given period while sandy soils may need two or three waterings during the same time. Add organic soil amendments to sandy soils, such as those used for
mulches, and thoroughly mix them into the upper foot. However, these amendments will not decrease the plant’s water need.  Specifically, they can increase the water-holding capacity of the soil and the interval between waterings.

• Aerate lawns and ground around trees and other plants. Basically, remove small plugs of grass and/or soil to prevent compaction and increase water absorption. Most local rental businesses can provide soil aerators.
Clay and other heavy soils especially benefit from annual aeration.

• Remove the accumulation of old grass roots, stems, and leaves, called thatch, on your lawn, which acts as a barrier to keep water out of the soil. Before temperatures get too warm, remove thatch if it is more than 1/2 inch thick.

• Mow your lawn at the correct height:

Common Bermudagrass 1 inch
Hybrid Bermudagrass 1/2 to 3/4 inch
Zoysia 3/4 to 1 inch
St. Augustine grass 3/4 to 1% inches
Tall Fescue 1% to 3 inches
Perennial Ryegrass and Kentucky Bluegrass 112 inches

• Check faucets, hoses, and sprinklers for leaks. A new rubber washer is inexpensive and easy to install.

Source:  Cooperative Extension-Sacramento County

Related:  You may find this article helpful:

7 Ways to Conserve Water in the Garden – TUTORING YOU

It’s not too late! Use this guide to reap the benefits of homegrown veggies this fall.

If you can’t get enough of homegrown garden produce—or spring planting passed you by— don’t hang up your trowel just yet. Diane Blazek, executive director of the National Garden Bureau says there’s still time to plant a second crop to harvest this fall. “Fall is the perfect time to grow vegetables,” she says. “They even taste better in the cool temperatures. And, if Mother Nature threw you a curve ball in spring, it’s a chance to circle back and fall in love with the garden again.”

Even if you just take an hour to plant one $5 packet of Buttercrunch lettuce, you’ll be harvesting sweet, tender greens into November. The key is to pick the right cool season crops and get started before it’s too late.

Grow Guide

When to Plant Fall Vegetables

Look for seeds that are labeled “Early Season” (because what grows in spring typically does well in fall too). Also check the “Days to Harvest” to find varieties with shorter growing times. A few examples include Cherry Belle radishes (22 days), Olympia spinach (45 days) and De Cicco broccoli (50 days). Then check your region’s fall frost date and count backward from the “Days to Harvest” info. For example, if your frost date is October 15 and your greens are 45 days to harvest, then you should sow a row before Labor Day.

Where to Plant Your Vegetables

Fall veggies can be grown in a garden, raised bed or planter. Just make room by pulling out overgrown spring or summer plants. Diane advises to read packet instructions for spacing: “My number one tip is don’t overplant. You’re just wasting seeds and causing yourself more work by having to thin them.” And when you do thin them, she says snip them out—fingernail scissors work well—and don’t pull them. Otherwise, you risk yanking out neighboring seedlings. (If you like, these thinned plants are edible as microgreens.)

It’s critical to keep seeds and young seedlings watered, especially in the heat of late August and early September. Keep the soil damp (but not soggy) initially, then as plants mature, aim for one or two good soaks per week, depending on weather. Young seedlings may need some afternoon shade. Try an umbrella, a piece of cardboard or summer-weight garden fabric to provide temporary shade. To continue growing vegetables beyond a fall frost, consider using row covers. “With a little extra work and equipment, you can definitely extend the season,” says Blazek, who delights in serving fresh-picked kale for Thanksgiving dinner.

Quick-Harvest Vegetables to Try for Fall

Leafy Greens

Leaf lettuce Try a salad bowl seed mix or combine your own with classics such as Black Seeded Simpson and Red Sails. Or experiment with dwarf varieties like Little Gem romaine and baby butterhead lettuce.

Arugula Peppery arugula tastes so much better fresh-picked than dumped from a bag. Plants thrive in cool weather and some are ready in just 35 days.

Spinach Plant seeds in early fall to enjoy a long harvest even in cold and snow. Pick leaves small for salads or let them mature for freezing or wilting into soups, stir-fries, pastas and other cooked dishes.

Kale Grow this winter-hardy nutrient powerhouse, as well as its friends, collards and chard. Many varieties are highly ornamental, perfect to accent a fall container or flower bed.

Microgreens or baby greens Plant a single variety or mix of beet, broccoli, kale, kohlrabi, mustard, cabbage and Swiss chard seeds. Harvest when leaves reach desired size and add to salads or toss anywhere you’d garnish a dish with herbs.

Roots and More

Radishes Sow easy-to-grow radish seeds for a quick harvest—only 30 days. Enjoy varieties like Watermelon and French Breakfast on salads or tacos or thinly sliced on buttered bread.

Beets The key to planting success for beets and other root veggies is to thinly sow seeds and further thin seedlings (3 inches apart for beets).

Turnips Turnips are ready to dig when roots reach 2–3 inches in diameter. Try them roasted or added to stews. Hakurei turnips, a Japanese variety, are a favorite of many CSA farms and taste delicious raw, sliced into salads or dipped in hummus.

Kohlrabi This funky-looking vegetable is a nice addition to slaws. It’s a quick-growing brassica and tastes like its cousin, broccoli.

Snap Peas This family favorite thrives in fall but is a bit slower to harvest—so act now! Give peas a trellis to climb, then snack on them straight from the vine while putting the rest of your garden to bed.

Plan Ahead for Next Fall

One downside to sowing vegetables in fall: The seed racks may be depleted (or gone entirely) at big-box stores. Instead, visit well-stocked garden centers or order online. (Reliable catalog sources include Johnny’s Selected Seeds, Seed Savers Exchange, and Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Company.) And next year, plan ahead! Plant half a packet of radishes or snap peas in spring, when the retail selection is best, then stash the rest in a cool, dry place until autumn.

How to Grow Transplants

Would you rather try transplants than seeds for fall? Transplants can be purchased online or at local garden centers. Handle with care and plant at the same depth as they were in their original containers.

You can also grow your own transplants indoors following seed packet instructions.  Within weeks, they’ll be ready to move into the garden, but make the transition gradually to help plants adjust to the temperature changes. “It’s just as important in the spring as the summer because you may be taking them from an air-conditioned basement to a 90-degree August day,” says Diane.

Source:  midwestliving.com

Photo credit:  Bob Stefko & Kelsey Hansen

Related:  Fast-Growing Vegetables You Can Harvest Quickly – TUTORING YOU

As summer peaks and your garden is in full swing, it may feel like the perfect time to set your gardening tools aside and take a well-deserved break. However, many plants can still benefit from regular maintenance.

Deadheading—the simple act of removing spent blooms—is one task that shouldn’t fall by the wayside this month.

According to a professional gardener and florist, here are the top plants you should deadhead now to keep your garden thriving through fall.

Zinnias

Zinnias are the poster child for “cut-and-come-again” flowers. Regular deadheading transforms zinnia plants from spindly, single-stemmed plants to strong, branching flower displays.

Since zinnias are known for flowering late in the season, August is the month when they’ll benefit most from regular deadheading, says Grace Krueger, founder and head florist at Lulabelle’s Flower Farm.

She recommends cutting zinnias just above the first set of leaf nodes when deadheading to encourage flower production and a bushy shape.

Snapdragons

Snapdragons love cooler weather, so by August, you may find that your snapdragon plants have slowed their blooming as they withstand the summer heat. Nevertheless, deadheading your snapdragons in August can help encourage continued blooming in the fall once temperatures cool again.

When deadheading snapdragons, ensure you make a deep cut and remove most of the flower stalk. Choose a spot just above a lower set of leaves. This will encourage the future flower stalks to be tall and strong—perfect for fall flower arrangements.

Roses

Roses also benefit from deadheading in August, especially the reblooming varieties. Some, like The Knock Out® series, are self-cleaning, meaning they don’t require manual deadheading to rebloom. However, others will need a little help this month if you want prolific blooms through the end of the summer.

“Roses like to be cut directly above the first five leaf set at an outward angle, but you can also trim them a bit lower to a desired height if you wish,” Krueger says.

Dahlias

Dahlias really start to shine in August with their bold, prolific blooms. Regular deadheading doesn’t just clean up the appearance of your plant—it’s essential to get the most blooms possible out of your dahlia.

These classic “cut-and-come-again” flowers thrive when their blooms are harvested regularly (including the spent ones), making them a staple in many cut flower gardens.

Dahlia blooms can be deadheaded as soon as you notice signs of wilting or dropping petals. Use a pair of sharp scissors or pruning shears and remove the entire flower head, cutting back to the nearest node or set of leaves.

Coneflowers

Deadheading coneflowers isn’t necessary, but some gardeners like to do it in August. Doing so helps prolong blooming and prevents the plant from going to seed.

However, many varieties of birds (especially goldfinch) enjoy the echinacea seeds as a winter snack. Basically, it’s a good idea to leave at least a few of the flower heads on the plant at the end of the season.

If you decide to deadhead your coneflowers, the spent bloom can be removed directly below the head of the flower, also called the ‘receptacle.’

Daisies

Many varieties of daisies benefit from deadheading, and August is the perfect time to do it. Deadheading daisies helps maintain a tidy appearance, stimulates new growth, and encourages prolific blooms. It also prevents the plant from prematurely going to seed, which can help control the spread of your daisy patch.

As soon as the daisy flowers begin to wilt or fade, it’s time to deadhead them. The correct way to deadhead daisies depends on the type of plant (branching versus non-branching).

For branching varieties, the stem should be cut back to the nearest bud or branch. For single-stemmed varieties, a deep cut should be made, removing the stem just above the set of first leaves at the bottom of the plant.

Petunias

Petunias are known for blooming all summer long, but they won’t do so without some regular love and attention. Deadheading is at the top of the list.

Regular deadheading encourages continued blooming, rather than going into dormancy. Exactly how often you’ll need to deadhead your petunias will vary depending on the variety and the climate in your area. However, on average, you should expect to be deadheading a few flowers here and there one to two times a week.

Luckily, deadheading petunias is as simple as pinching off the spent bloom just below the flower head.

Marigolds

August is when marigolds really shine. This month, regular deadheading is key to extending their blooming period and encouraging stronger, bushier plants.

According to Krueger, marigolds can be deadheaded by removing spent flowers just below the flower head, like petunias.

Source:  thespruce.com©

Cover photo:  Credit: bgwalker / Getty Images

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