Many large houseplants can be easily propagated by cuttings grown in water. Some popular choices include Pothos, Spider Plants, Philodendrons, and English Ivy. Other options include Lucky Bamboo, Chinese Evergreen, Coleus, Begonia, and certain Aroids like Monstera.
Here’s a more detailed look at some of these:
1. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum): Pothos is a very popular choice for water propagation due to its ease and speed of rooting.
2. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum): Spider plants readily produce “spiderettes” or plantlets that can be easily rooted in water.
3. Philodendron: Many Philodendron species, like the heartleaf and split-leaf varieties, are excellent candidates for water propagation.
4. English Ivy (Hedera helix): This trailing vine also roots well in water.
5. Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena sanderiana): While not a true bamboo, this plant is often grown in water for its decorative and symbolic value.
6. Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema): This plant can also be propagated by placing stem cuttings in water.
7. Coleus: This plant is known for its vibrant foliage and can be easily propagated in water.
8. Begonia: Many Begonia species can be propagated from stem cuttings in water.
9. Aroids (including Monstera): This group includes many popular houseplants like Monstera deliciosa (Swiss cheese plant) and other Philodendrons.
Tips for Water Propagation:
Choose healthy stems: Look for stems with at least one node (the point where a leaf grows from).
Change the water regularly: Replace the water every few days to prevent stagnation and bacterial growth.
Provide adequate light: Place the cuttings in a location that receives indirect light.
Be patient: Rooting can take a few weeks, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t see results immediately.
This plant can grow well in full sun or partial sun. If you are planting it outdoors then select a sunny site, and for indoor container gardening keep it near a sunny window.
Many people plant multiple plants to get a fuller growth. When planted indoors in pots of 14 inches, the plant can reach a growth of 7 feet. When planted outdoors, this plant can reach an impressive height of 20 to 30 feet and spread up to 6 to 10 feet. The bird of paradise flowers appear on outdoor plants after few years and are in exotic colors of blue and white.
The schefflera amate is a beautiful tree native to the rainforests in Australia and New Guinea. It is a fast-growing tree that, when in its natural environment, can grow up to 65 feet tall.
Also known as the Australian umbrella tree, this lovely foliage with its glossy green leaves is also suitable as a houseplant.
In an indoor environment, the schefflera amate typically grows anywhere from five to ten feet, the average being eight.
Despite being a tropical plant, it adapts to numerous types of environments – one of the various reasons it makes a great indoor plant. Of course, its appearance certainly makes a wonderful addition to any home or office.
The genus Calathea—characterized by boldly marked, oblong leaves in a dazzling array of colors—includes some of the most beautiful tropical plants in the world. Due to the plants’ eye-catching stripes and veining, they’re often known by nicknames such as the zebra plant, peacock plant, or rattlesnake plant.
Two of the most important factors in placing a houseplant in your home are light and temperature. Know both the light requirements of your plant and the sources of light in your home (including amount and duration) in order to match a plant with its proper location. Too little light often causes faded leaves and flowers, stunted growth, and lack of flowers on flowering plants. Too much light can result in wilting, burning, and a washed-out appearance of leaves. Also be aware of temperature requirements of your plant. Air currents around windows and doors can produce cold drafts that some plants cannot tolerate. Information on light recommendations and minimum temperature requirements is often included with a plant at the time of purchase. Many houseplant reference books are also available that can provide this information.
When do I water my houseplant?
Water needs vary depending on the individual plant and the conditions under which it is grown. Small pots absorb water more quickly than large pots and clay pots more quickly than plastic. The stage of growth of a plant alters its water requirements as well. When a plant is actively growing it requires more water than during its slow growth periods (e.g., winter). Most plants fall under one of two watering categories; those that prefer evenly moist soil (soil should not be allowed to dry out) and those that should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. Insert a finger approximately one inch below the soil surface to feel for moisture. Water only if the soil is dry. Many plants, in particular succulents and cacti, need to be kept dry when they are not flowering. IMPROPER WATERING IS A PRIMARY CAUSE OF PLANT DEATH. Too little water can lead to stunted growth, wilting and eventual plant death. Excess water causes roots to suffocate and can contribute to problems with root rots, resulting in yellowing of foliage and eventual wilting or death of the plant.
How do I water my houseplant?
Before watering, make sure your plant’s pot has good drainage. During the season when your plant is actively growing, apply water until it starts to seep through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Allow the water to drain into the saucer for 10 to 20 minutes and remove the excess water from the saucer or elevate roots and soil above the drainage water. DO NOT allow a plant to stand in water unless this is a specific requirement for the plant. When using tap water, allow the water to sit for at least 24 hours prior to use to allow time for chlorine and fluoride (chemicals that can cause tip burn on many houseplants) to evaporate. For most plants, watering directly onto the soil surface with a narrow-spouted watering can is easiest. Some plants, such as African violets, do not like to have water splashed on their leaves. For these plants, pour water into the saucer and allow the plant to stand 20 to 30 minutes before removing any excess water.
How do I fertilize my houseplant?
Fertilizing your houseplant is important as it has a limited amount of soil from which to draw nutrients. Liquid fertilizers are commonly used on houseplants, although powdered and granulated fertilizers can also be used. Liquid fertilizers are often purchased as concentrates and must be diluted before being applied to a plant. Fertilization is only necessary during active growth; for most plants this is between spring and fall. Plants that bloom in the winter, however, should be fertilized before their flowering period. As a general rule, plants need to be fertilized once every one to two months. However, fertilizers vary in their usage pattern, so be sure to follow the label instructions for the product that you choose. Overfertilization of a plant can cause leaf damage (burn) and could potentially kill a plant. A general, complete houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20) is sufficient for many houseplants.
When do I repot my houseplant?
Watch for signs of a plant in need of repotting. A pot-bound plant left uncared for often has nutrient deficiency symptoms (e.g., yellowing) and stunted growth. The most obvious sign that a plant should be repotted is when roots appear on the soil surface or come out of drainage holes. A more subtle sign may be a plant with soil that dries more quickly than usual after watering, requiring more frequent watering. If you suspect you have a pot-bound plant, carefully pull the plant out of its pot and inspect the rootball. If the roots are loose and soil easily falls from them, repotting is not needed. Return the plant to its pot and gently firm the soil. If the rootball contains little loose soil and has an abundance of roots circling around the outside of the rootball, it is likely time to repot. Repot your plant at the beginning of active growth (spring for most plants), to allow roots a chance to establish before the winter. Generally, you should repot a plant into a pot that is one size larger than its current pot. If a pot is too large, the excess soil will hold water around the roots and create conditions that are favorable for root rots to develop. Make sure the pot you select has adequate drainage! Most houseplants do well in a general, soilless, houseplant potting mix. However, there are special potting mixes for growing orchids, cacti, and African violets. Potting mixes often contain a mixture of perlite, peat, vermiculite, and bark. If possible, avoid potting mixes that contain soil, as they oftentimes have poor drainage and may contain root rot-causing organisms.
How do I control pests and diseases on houseplants?
Preventing problems before they occur is the best method of control. Most pests and pathogens arrive on new plants, so be sure to inspect your plant thoroughly before taking it home. Check for signs of insects or pathogens by looking at the undersides of leaves, growing tips, and roots. Keep your new plant separated from other plants in the house for one to two weeks until you are sure it is pest-free. Keep plants well-maintained and inspect them regularly to avoid pest outbreaks. In general, if you do have a pest or disease problem, the earlier you find the problem, the easier it is to manage. If an outbreak is in an isolated area of the plant (e.g., on a single leaf), that portion can be pruned to remove the problem. Insects or insect-like pests (e.g., spider mites) that thrive in hot and dry conditions can often be controlled by adjusting environmental conditions. For example, cooling the air or misting a plant can eliminate conditions that are favorable for the development of spider mites. Periodically running lukewarm water over houseplants in the sink or shower can help clean dust and insects off of leaves and leach excess salts from the soil. Make sure pots have adequate drainage to prevent soil from saturating. Root rot pathogens thrive in wet soils with poor aeration and drainage, and their presence is likely a sign of overwatering. The growth of the gray mold fungus, Botrytis cinerea is more common under cool, damp conditions. Adjusting the environment so that a plant is warmer and drier may help prevent or reduce problems with this disease. If further control is needed, pesticide sprays can be effective; however, a proper diagnosis of your plant’s problem is needed before any pesticides are applied.
Tillandsia xerographica is a slow-growing, xerophyticepiphyte.[3] The silvery gray leaves are wide at the base and taper to a point making an attractive, sculptural rosette, 90 cm (3 ft) or more in diameter and over 90 cm (3 ft) high in flower. The inflorescence, on a thick, green stem, 150–380 mm (6–15 in) in height, densely branched. The leaf bracts are rosy red; the floral bracts are chartreuse; and the petals of the tubular flowers are red to purple and are very long lasting (months).
The genus Calathea—characterized by boldly marked, oblong leaves in a dazzling array of colors—includes some of the most beautiful tropical plants in the world. Due to the plants’ eye-catching stripes and veining, they’re often known by nicknames such as the zebra plant, peacock plant, or rattlesnake plant. Calatheas are also referred to as prayer plants, a common name that other species use as well.
Calatheas can be found outside in tropical environments, and they cannot tolerate cold temperatures. So elsewhere they are typically grown indoors year-round as houseplants. Moreover, calatheas can be hard to care for, as they have a reputation for being somewhat fussy about their growing conditions.
Source: Calathea: How to Grow and Care for Calathea Plants Indoors (thespruce.com)
Kitchen scrap gardening saves you money on grocery bills and reduces waste. Regrow your kitchen waste into edible veggies and greens!
What Is Kitchen Scrap Gardening?
Kitchen scrap gardening is the ultimate in recycling. It’s environmentally friendly, can save on grocery bills, and it’s a fun, hands-on science lesson for young children.
Here are some of the best scraps to get growing. You’ll probably get better results if you start with high-quality organic produce since some non-organic produce is actually treated to prevent sprouting. Also, keep in mind the climate you live in will determine if and when plants started from scraps can be transferred to an outdoor garden.
A Few Things To Keep In Mind
Not everything will sprout. Check on your plants and if after a week you don’t see anything is happening, compost the scraps and try again.
Romaine Lettuce
Growing romaine lettuce from scraps is similar to growing green onions and celery. Cut off the lettuce you plan to eat and leave a couple of inches at the base. Place this romaine heart in water and new leaves will start to grow from the center. Remove outer leaves as they start to die. You can eventually plant your romaine in soil when the time is right.
Potato
Small potatoes can be planted whole. For large potatoes like bakers, cut into pieces making sure there are a couple of eyes on each piece. Allowing the pieces to dry out for a day or two may help prevent rotting. Plant the pieces in your garden or a container filled with well-drained potting mix and wait for them to sprout. In a few months, you should be able to dig up a whole bunch of new potatoes!
Basil, Cilantro, and Other Herbs
Re-growing herbs, such as basil and cilantro, is fairly easy to do. Cut a stem about four inches long, and place it into a glass of water. Be sure that the leaves are not submerged in the water. Place your stem in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight. In a few days, look for roots forming. Once these roots are about an inch long, go ahead and transplant them into some soil. In no time you will have your very own flourishing herb garden.
Regrow Vegetables From Seeds
Don’t stop with just scraps! You can also retrieve your own seeds from your food scraps in order to propagate. Rinse off the slimy, seedy insides of your organic tomatoes and allow them to dry thoroughly. Plant them in a container inside until sprouted to a few inches tall, when they can then be transplanted outside. Peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins, winter squash, and microgreens can all also be re-grown by salvaging their seeds. Turn those composting scraps into new, edible treasures.
If you want plants in your home, ask some questions first.
What kind of light do you have in your home? Are you relatively attentive to plants? And is your house drafty or really dry in the winter months?
Something like a snake plant (Sansevieria sp.), a ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia), a golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) or a corn plant (Dracaena fragrans), would be my choices.
Those plants can thrive under benign neglect, which can ultimately inspire confidence in a newly minted plant owner.
OK, now that you’ve got them, how do you hang them? I’m glad you asked.
Don’t Know how to hang Them? These DIY Macrame Plant Hangers Are the Perfect Solution
SUPPLIES
1 mason jar or small pot
32 feet of preferred rope or twine
1 inch metal ring, optional
Enough potting soil to fill your mason jar or pot
Seeds of choice (or plants)
Water
INSTRUCTIONS for a DIY Macrame Hanger
1. Cut your rope into 4 pieces, each measuring 8 feet. (For a longer hanger, use as much rope as you like, and cut it into 4 even pieces.)
2. Bunch the 4 pieces together and fold at the center. All of the ends should fall to same length.
3. If you do not have a metal ring, simply use the 8 ends (because they’re folded in half) to tie a knot near the top (the folded end) of the rope. You should end up with an eye loop that you can wrap around a doorknob or hand on a hook. If you do have the metal ring, start by feeding the folded end of your ropes through the ring. Then bring the 8 ends of rope through the space between the metal ring and the folded end of the ropes. Pull tight and the rope should be secured to the metal ring with the 8 ends hanging together at the bottom.
4. To make the knotting step very easy, hook your metal ring or eye loop over a coat hook, door knob, or even your toe!
5. Spread out each of the 8 ropes hanging from the top and make sure none are tangled or overlapping. Take the two ropes at the far left and tie a simple knot about ⅓ of the way up from the bottom by laying the two ends back over themselves and feeding them through the loop that is created. Do this to the next two ropes that are next to each other, and continue until you have 4 knots.
6. Next, spread out the two ropes that fall from each of the 4 knots, allowing them to cross each other where they naturally want to. You will end up with 1 rope out to the left and 1 rope out to the right, and 3 Xs in the middle.
7. Now, tie a knot where those Xs meet, adjust as necessary so that they are all the same distance from the knots above them. Once you’ve tied the 3 Xs, take the rope on the left and the rope on the right and knot them to match the others.
8. This is when you’ll want to place your mason jar or pot into the ropes (don’t let go of it, we’re not finished!) to see if the knots are going to sit where you want them. If they’re too close together or too far apart, untie them and adjust so that they fall where you want them.
9. Finally, bundle all 8 rope ends together at the bottom, lay them over themselves and feed back through the loop that is created. This will form the bottom knot that your jar or pot sits on. Again, this can be adjusted higher or lower to your preference.
10. Place your container in this new fancy hangar, give it some water, and hang it anyplace appropriate!
