Tag: #Seeds

Seed Starting

There may be snow on the ground or blazing hot, but it is time to start think gardening. Seed starting is a great way to get your gardening fix.   However, take the time to plan out your process so you have the best success possible for your efforts.

Whether flowers, vegetables, or herbs, consider these factors before investing in planting seeds.

Read the seed packet and the description of the seeding requirements

The information you need for a successful planting should be on the back of the seed package. It will tell you how long germination takes, how long till ready to transplant, and what, if any special conditions are needed. Read carefully; some seeds require light to germinate and should not be covered with soil. Others require darkness and may germinate better covered with foil instead of clear plastic during that early germination stage (remove, of course, as soon as any signs of seedlings appear!)

Use clean containers and clean germination mix

Germination mix is finer than regular soil mix and gives better seed-to-soil contact. It is also light and well-drained which helps keep roots healthy.

Moisten the germination mix before adding seeds

Drainage is important, the germination mix should be moist, but not soppy wet! Drying out during germination is deadly, keep the mix moist continuously. A layer of clear plastic over the top of the container can help keep the moisture in, or you can mist the top of the soil several times a day. Some seeds will germinate in 3 days; others may take 3 weeks.

Pay attention to temperature

Many seeds germinate well with bottom heat, but once germinated most appreciate and grow better with fluctuating day and night temperatures, so turn off those heaters. Cool season flowers and vegetable will develop better if you can keep the seedlings from getting too warm. Try to keep them in that 50 to 60 degree range during the day, cooler at night.

Use a supplemental light source for best growth

Bright light from a window is great, but seedlings need really bright light to develop healthy, thick stems and proper growth. Consider hanging fluorescent or LED lights a few inches above the developing seedlings and continue to raise the lights as the plants grow.

Maintain good airflow

Set up a fan to blow on your seedlings. This helps protect the delicate seedlings from damping off, a fungal disease that attacks the new stems at the soil level. The air movement also triggers production of structural proteins that thicken the cell walls and give the plants a stronger stem. Many commercial tomato and pepper seedling producers use brushing to toughen their plants. You can simulate this by gently running your hands over the tops of the seedlings each day.

Source: Patti Nagai, Emeritus Extension Professor /hort.extension.wisc.edu

Related:  https://tutoringyou.org/flower-seeds-to-sow-in-august-2/

How to Save Garden Seeds

Fall has arrived, but it may not be too late to save seeds from your favorite flower.

 

A good challenge for any gardener is to learn how to harvest and save seed.

If you find the perfect tasting tomato, harvesting and saving the seed will ensure you can have that tomato again next season. The seed stores the genetic information for a new plant. With a bit of practice and patience, you can have the seeds of your favorite vegetables ready for next year’s garden.

Provide care for plants

Starting with good seed gives your plants a good start. Avoid stressing plants by planting in good soil, proper watering, and reducing pest problems.

Select seeds from the plants that are healthy and thriving in your garden. Look for plants that have the healthiest plants, best fruit, or prettiest flowers. 

Save Your Seeds

It’s the end of your gardening season, and your plants are going to seed. What should you do? You have two choices:

The first is allowing the plants to complete their cycle and treat them according to what type of plant they are in your planting zone.

Your second option is allowing the plant to go to seed and harvest the seeds prior to closing the growing space down for the season.

Harvest seeds

Some plants have different seed harvesting methods, but in general, you’ll wait until you see the seeds forming on the plant.

Harvesting seed at the right time is essential. When the fruit is perfect for eating, the seed may still be too immature to be able to be viable. Mature seed is usually plump and heavy for its size. Flat, green seed is usually still too immature to germinate.

Dry fruits such as beans, peas, grain, and lettuces are simple to harvest. Collect the seed pods when they have dried, and the seed is mature. Keep in mind that seed pods can break open, causing seed to be lost.

Wet fruit such as tomatoes, peppers, and melons take a little more work. The seeds mature after the fruit is harvested for eating. Leave a few fruits on the plant to let the seeds ripen in the fruit. When the seeds are ready, the fruit will be sour or fermenting, making it unsuitable for eating.

Clean and dry seeds

Removing the seeds from all other materials is important for getting the seeds ready for storage. Seeds are usually heavier than the other plant material, so screens, a light breeze, or putting the material on an incline can separate the seeds from the rest of the material. 

Remove seeds from wet fruits by removing the seeds and rinsing them with cool water until clean.

Package and store seeds

Seeds should be kept in a cool, dry location. In a humid climate, glass jars or plastic container with a tight-fitting lid are an excellent way to store seeds. Some people store their seeds in paper envelopes, plastic freezer bags, or glass jars with a lid. It’s also common to store seeds in the refrigerator or freezer. Remember to label the containers to avoid mix-ups.

The main goal is ensuring the seeds are harvested and dried prior to storage.

Photo:  Pixabay.

Damping-Off Plant Disease

What is damping-off?  Damping-off is a common and fatal disease that affects all types of plant seedlings.  The disease is most prevalent when seeds are germinated in cool, wet soils.  Fortunately, seedlings are susceptible to damping-off for only a short period following emergence.  As plants age, their susceptibility to damping-off declines.

What does damping-off look like?  Seedlings killed by damping-off initially are healthy but shortly after emergence become infected at or just below the soil line.  The lower stems of the seedlings collapse, and the seedlings fall over onto the soil surface.  The seedlings subsequently die.

Where does damping-off come from?  Damping-off is caused by several soil-borne water molds and fungi, including (but not limited to) Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia solani and Fusarium spp.  These organisms readily survive and are moved in soil or on soil-contaminated items such as pots, tools and workbenches.

How do I save seedlings with damping-off?  Seedlings with damping-off will die and cannot be saved.  Proper prevention is the only way to avoid problems with this disease.

How do I avoid problems with damping-off in the future?  When planting seeds, make sure that work areas, tools and pots are pathogen-free.  Decontaminate tools and workbenches by treating them for at least 30 seconds with 10% bleach or (preferably due to its less corrosive properties) 70% alcohol (e.g., rubbing alcohol or certain spray disinfectants).  Decontaminate pots by washing them with soapy water to remove bits of old soil, soaking them for at least 20 minutes in 10% bleach, and then rinsing them thoroughly to remove bleach residues.  DO NOT reuse plastic pots if you have had problems with damping-off or root rots in the past, as they are difficult to decontaminate.

When planting, use a well-drained, pasteurized potting mixture.  DO NOT use garden soils as they often contain damping-off pathogens.  DO NOT plant seeds too deeply, and germinate seeds at high temperatures, so that seedlings rapidly grow out of the stage where they are susceptible to damping-off.  DO NOT overwater as damping-off organisms are more active in wet soils.  If the techniques described above do not work, then consider using fungicide-treated seed.  In particular, plants grown from captan-treated seeds tend to have fewer problems with damping-off.

Article by Brian Hudelson UW-Madison

Source: Damping-Off | Plant Disease Diagnostics Clinic (wisc.edu)

Pelleted seed gives gardeners a sown in advantage

Have you noticed the windowed packets of seeds at garden centers with brightly colored “seeds”? These pelleted seeds are small or irregular seed that have a specialized inert coating applied to improve planting, spacing, and germination. Often the coating, which increases the weight and size of the seed, is colored which aids in planting several varieties of seed in one tray, a row in a garden, or a field. 

While pelleted seed was originally developed for commercial production with a mechanical seeder. Then, seed companies began producing pelleted seed for vegetables and flowers and seeds are now available at local garden centers and big-box stores.

Photo by Mary Fischer. Pelleted seed are often sold in windowed seed packets.

History

Pelleted seed has been used intermittently since WWI. The improved pelleted seed was introduced for cereal seeds in the 1930s by a British seed company, Germains. In the 1940s, the U.S. used several types of pelleted seed in reforestation studies. The 1960s saw large-scale use of pelletized seed by commercial growers primarily for its ease of use with mechanical planters and new seed coating technologies. In the 1970s, California banned the use of short-handled hoes, increasing the use of pelleted or coated seeds.

Benefits of Pelleted Seed

Today, pelleted seed has many positive benefits for commercial productions and home gardeners. The coating protects seed from birds, rodents, and a wide range of environmental conditions that often lead to replanting. It reduces loss from needing to thin plants.

Precise spacing requires less seed, and since the seed is coated and visible, less seed will be used saving gardeners money. 

Photo by Mary Fischer. The brightly colored coating on pelleted seed makes it easier to keep track of which varieties you are planting when starting seeds.

For large-scale producers, it is easier for specific applications like aerial dropping or mechanical seeders. There are nutrient benefits with increased oxygen availability. The coating allows for pre-inoculation of legume seeds. Since chemicals are applied to the seed and not the whole field, application is safer and there is a lower cost of agricultural chemicals.

One obstacle to widespread adoption of pelleted seed has been the ability of the coating to split open once it is hydrated allowing oxygenated moisture to reach the seed. New levels of coating densities for commercial growers has overcome that issue.

Meghan Shinn has two precautions when using pelleted seed in a March 1, 2020 article from Horticulture Magazine. First, the growing medium needs to remain consistently moist, but not soggy, after the seed is sown. Secondly, all the pelleted seed must be used in the season it is purchased. This should not be a problem with most home gardeners as seed packets contain smaller amounts of seed.

How to Use Pelleted Seed

Pelleted seed is very easy to use. The colored coating allows a home gardener to see the seed as it is planted, the seed spacing, and where it is planted before covering with soil. If a home gardener is starting seed in a tray for transplant later, pelleted seed makes it easier to identify the different types of seed as it is planted.

How to Make Seed Tape

Another method of planting pelleted seed is to make your own seed tape. This is quite easy to do using single-ply toilet paper and glue.

  1. Simply tear off a length of toilet paper to fit the garden plot. Fold it in half lengthwise and cut into two pieces. Fold each length in half longways and open.
  2. Following the recommended spacing on the seed packet, place small dots of glue at the appropriate distance to one side of the fold, then add a seed.
  3. Once the entire length has been planted, fold the other side over the seed side.
  4. This tape can be wrapped around an empty paper towel roll and labeled for later use.
  5. When ready to plant, prepare the garden bed, lay the tape on the bed, and cover it to the proper depth as directed on the seed packet.

Article by Horticulture Educator Mary Fischer

Source: Gardeners Corner Spring 2022: University of Illinois Extension

Are Your Garden Seeds Still Good? Here’s How to Tell

Don’t waste time and effort! Before you get growing, check to see if your seeds will germinate with these helpful tips.

Before you plant older seeds find out if they’ll still germinate with these helpful tips.

If you’ve started planning your spring garden, you might be taking stock and seeing what materials you have to work with. Are you wondering if the seeds you intended to use last year are still good? Or, what about those heirloom seeds you got as a wedding favor a few years back?

Just like most things in nature, seeds have a shelf life and you need to determine your seeds’ ability to germinate before you start planting. You don’t want to waste your time and effort!

Seed Viability – In A “Nutshell”

Most brand new seeds have a 90% germination rate, meaning that 9 out of every 10 seeds you plant should grow. But if you’ve got seeds that have been hanging around for three years, the germination rate drops to around 60%. That means you’ll need to plant a higher number of these older seeds to increase your chances of growing something.

Seed Viability Test For Older Seeds

If you have older seeds, it’s wise to do a quick viability test prior to planting when using older seeds. Here’s what to do:

It’s a good idea to test viability on older seeds.
  1. Fold a dampened paper towel in half.
  2. Take 2-3 seeds and place them on the damp towel.
  3. Fold the towel over the seeds and place them in a zippered plastic bag or airtight container in a warm location.
  4. After a few days, open the bag and take a peek to see if any sprouted. This will give you a good gauge of how your seeds are germinating.

If the germination rate is low, but there is still some viability (for example, maybe only 2 of the seeds in your test sprouted), simply plant more of those seeds in the garden, knowing that not all may sprout. You’re just increasing the sprouting odds.

If none of them sprout, obviously, you’ll have to purchase fresh seeds.

Seed Storage Tips

Heirloom seeds are often given as wedding favors!

The key to keeping your seeds viable for a few seasons is proper storage. Be sure to do the following:

  • Keep your seeds in a cool spot that offers a consistent temperature. Your best bet is to put them in a moisture-proof sealed container (if they’re already in packets, you can keep them right in the packets while storing) and store in your freezer or refrigerator. It is extremely important the seeds are 100% dry or mold will develop. You can even add some rice to the container to wick away any possibly moisture.
  • Keep them out of direct sunlight.
  • Keep them away from any humidity or moisture.

How you store them won’t only be for the long-term, it will be your day-to-day access while you’re outside sowing.

Storage Life Of Vegetable Seeds

Below is a list of the approximate lifespan of your favorite vegetable, herb, and flower seeds when stored properly. Keep in mind this is just an estimate—many seeds might be viable much longer, while others a bit shorter.

VegetableStorage Life
Asparagus3 years
Beans3 years
Beets4 years
Broccoli4 years
Brussels sprouts4 years
Cabbage4 years
Carrot3 years
Cauliflower4 years
Celery3 years
Chard, Swiss4 years
Chicory4 years
Chinese Cabbage (Bok Choy)3 years
Corn, Sweet2 years
Cucumber5 years
Eggplant3 years
Endive5 years
Kale4 years
Leek2 years
Lettuce4 years
Melon5 years
Mustard4 years
Okra2 years
Onion1 year
Parsnip1 year
Pea3 years
Pepper3 years
Pumpkin4 years
Radish4 years
Rutabaga4 years
Spinach2 years
Squash4 years
Tomato5 years
Turnip4 years
Watermelon4 years

Storage Life Of Flower Seeds

FlowerStorage Life
Ageratum4 years
Alyssum4 years
Amaranth3 years
Aster1 year
Baby’s Breath2 years
Bachelor’s Button3 years
Calendula5 years
Celosia4 years
Clarkia2 years
Coleus2 years
Columbine2 years
Cosmos3 years
Dahlia2 years
Daisy3 years
Delphinium1 year
Dianthus4 years
Foxglove2 years
Geranium1 year
Hibiscus3 years
Hollyhock3 years
Impatiens2 years
Larkspur1 year
Lobelia3 years
Lupine2 years
Marigold2 years
Nasturtium5 years
Nicotiana3 years
Pansy2 years
Petunia3 years
Phlox1 year
Poppy4 years
Salvia1 year
Snapdragon3 years
Sweet Pea3 years
Verbena1 year
Zinnia5 years

As a general rule, most annual flower seeds are viable for 1-3 years and perennial seeds for 2-4 years.

Article by Allison Vallin

Source: Are Your Garden Seeds Still Good? Here’s How To Tell – Farmers’ Almanac (farmersalmanac.com)