Kitchen scrap gardening saves you money on grocery bills and reduces waste. Regrow your kitchen waste into edible veggies and greens!
What Is Kitchen Scrap Gardening?
Kitchen scrap gardening is the ultimate in recycling. It’s environmentally friendly, can save on grocery bills, and it’s a fun, hands-on science lesson for young children.
Here are some of the best scraps to get growing. You’ll probably get better results if you start with high-quality organic produce since some non-organic produce is actually treated to prevent sprouting. Also, keep in mind the climate you live in will determine if and when plants started from scraps can be transferred to an outdoor garden.
A Few Things To Keep In Mind
Not everything will sprout. Check on your plants and if after a week you don’t see anything is happening, compost the scraps and try again.
Romaine Lettuce
Growing romaine lettuce from scraps is similar to growing green onions and celery. Cut off the lettuce you plan to eat and leave a couple of inches at the base. Place this romaine heart in water and new leaves will start to grow from the center. Remove outer leaves as they start to die. You can eventually plant your romaine in soil when the time is right.
Potato
Small potatoes can be planted whole. For large potatoes like bakers, cut into pieces making sure there are a couple of eyes on each piece. Allowing the pieces to dry out for a day or two may help prevent rotting. Plant the pieces in your garden or a container filled with well-drained potting mix and wait for them to sprout. In a few months, you should be able to dig up a whole bunch of new potatoes!
Basil, Cilantro, and Other Herbs
Re-growing herbs, such as basil and cilantro, is fairly easy to do. Cut a stem about four inches long, and place it into a glass of water. Be sure that the leaves are not submerged in the water. Place your stem in a bright area, but out of direct sunlight. In a few days, look for roots forming. Once these roots are about an inch long, go ahead and transplant them into some soil. In no time you will have your very own flourishing herb garden.
Regrow Vegetables From Seeds
Don’t stop with just scraps! You can also retrieve your own seeds from your food scraps in order to propagate. Rinse off the slimy, seedy insides of your organic tomatoes and allow them to dry thoroughly. Plant them in a container inside until sprouted to a few inches tall, when they can then be transplanted outside. Peppers, cucumbers, pumpkins, winter squash, and microgreens can all also be re-grown by salvaging their seeds. Turn those composting scraps into new, edible treasures.
Welcome to winter. The days are short and cold, and if you enjoy plants like I do, hopefully, you have a few indoors to boost your mood. However, there is already light on the horizon. Spring will be here before you know it, and now is a wonderful time to plan out your new perennial gardens.
At the Red Oak Rain Garden in Urbana, the designers used a plant-centric, layered design approach during a 2019 garden renovation. Low-growing plants cover the ground, seasonal plants add a pop of color, and structural plants add height and form. Photo: Layne Knoche.
The days of planting individual plants and surrounding them in a traditional sea of mulch or rock are numbered. Instead, a design paradigm described in the book “Planting in a Post-Wild World” by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is one that gardeners are flocking to. The innovative approach incorporates the concept of functional layers that form a complex yet organized landscape that reflects nature.
We need aesthetically beautiful gardens that also provide multiple ecosystem services such as water filtration and insect habitat. You cannot get that from most traditional landscapes. This design method works. We have used it successfully and beautifully at the Red Oak Rain Garden on the campus of University of Illinois in Urbana-Champaign and I have even used it in my own gardens.
Design in Layers
Be aware of layers when designing perennial gardens. Each layer has a selection of plant species that perform a specific function. When designing, it’s best to focus on these three layers: Groundcover, structural, and seasonal.
The Groundcover Layer
This layer typically consists of low-growing, densely planted grasses, sedges, ferns, and forbs that form a “green mulch” that serves to shade out weeds. Depending on the species chosen, these may be planted in groups of 10 or more and planted as little as 12 inches apart. As they fill in and mature, they protect from soil erosion, provide habitat for overwintering pollinators, and much more.
The Structural Layer
This layer consists of trees, larger shrubs, tall forbs, and grasses, or any other plant that has strong architectural forms. The plants in this layer form the “bones” of the garden that are visible year-round. Individual plants or small groupings – three or five, typically – are appropriate for this layer.
The Seasonal Layer
This layer features plant species that are visually dominant for a period. These are typically plants with showy blooms or textures. Larger groups and masses of plants in this layer can create stronger visual appeal.
Design Tips
Keep “right plant, right place” in mind. Know your site’s sun, moisture, and soil conditions, and choose species appropriate for your conditions.
Plan for seasonality. Make sure to include some spring ephemerals, summer bloomers, fall color, and winter visual interest.
Order early. Determine the species you want to use as early as possible, especially if you plan on ordering plants from an online nursery. The ship-to-home method has become increasingly popular over the past several years, so the earlier you place your order, the more likely you are to have luck with the species you want.
Designing perennial gardens is a fantastic way to spend a snowy gray day.
The Perennial Plant Association has named ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan its Perennial Plant of the Year for 2023. A hybrid between several species of Rudbeckia, ‘American Gold Rush’ is an easy grower with a compact habit, long late-summer bloom time and foliage that stays healthy. This plant was also recognized as an outstanding perennial by the All-America Selections trialing program in 2020.
Common name: ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan
Botanical name: Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’
Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Flowers: Daisy-like flowers appear atop upright stems from midsummer into autumn. The rays are a golden yellow and the cones, deep brown.
Foliage: Medium green, long and narrow, finely haired leaves form a basal clump of foliage. The leaves have shown good resistance to powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be a problem for Black-eyed Susans.
Habit: ‘American Gold Rush’ grows about two feet tall and it can spread nearly twice as wide. It has a rounded, compact shape.
Origin: This cultivar was first discovered by Illinois-based perennial breeder Brent Horvath in a bed sown with open-pollinated seed. Horvath states it is a hybrid between two, or likely three, rudbeckia species, including R. fulgida var. deamii.
How to grow it: Site ‘American Gold Rush’ rudbeckia in full sun or part shade. It grows best in lean to average soil with good drainage. Avoid fertilizing, which can cause lanky growth amid rudbeckias. Water regularly while the plant is getting established, but thereafter it can tolerate dry periods. Leave seed heads standing for birds in the fall, then cut the plant back in late winter or early spring. This plant may reseed in the garden. USDA Zones 4–9.
Appearing both modern and rustic at the same time, gabions provide an uncommon way to construct hardscape features in your garden that will last for decades to come. Gabion construction is a method used to build structural elements using rock without mortar.
The term “gabion” comes from an Italian word gabbione which simply means “big cage” Gabions can be made into square boxes, curved walls, pillars and more. Let’s check out some inspired landscape design ideas…
#4. Modern Planters
#7. Fountains
The image below features a fountain made with a small pump and a spillway fountain kit. The copper likely came from a rolled sheet of roofing material purchased from the home center.
#9. Raised Beds
Gabion ‘walls’ constructed for a raised bed typically will not need to be very thick since they are low to the ground and have some support once the inside is filled with soil.
I am not aware of any nationwide retailers that carry gabion cages but they are widely available online through a google search. Smaller cages that you can stack together to form walls and other features are sold on Amazon, Ebay, and even Etsy, as well as different shapes for making planters.
View all 12 gabion ideas by clicking the link below.
Source: 12 Gorgeous Gabion Ideas for Backyards – Container Water Gardens
There may not be a parenting road map to help you with tall, gangly teenagers, but I can help you with your tall, leggy seedlings- and a few of the other common indoor seed starting problems you might come across while tending your seeds from sprout to outside.
My seeds never germinate!
Germination problems can be caused by a variety of reasons. Some of the most common are:
Incorrect Temperature.
Different seeds have different needs. Cool weather crops such as cabbage, kale or broccoli have a much lower germination temperature while warm weather crops like tomatoes will germinate better with temperatures in the 70F range.
If you are sprouting your seeds in a cool basement or outbuilding you may need to provide supplemental heat- such as a heating mat– to ensure germination.
Old Seeds.
When properly stored seeds can have a very long shelf life. But the older they get, your germination rate will begin to reduce.
For the longest life, store your seeds in a cold, dry place. Humidity and warmth will greatly reduce your seeds’ shelf life.
Incorrect Watering.
Water in a necessity for all plants. In the germination stage you need to make sure you keep the soil evenly moist.If you water too much, you run the risk of your seeds rotting before they germinate.
If you let them dry out, they will either never germinate or die trying!
I use a handheld pump sprayer to water my seeds- a few times a day sometimes.
Planting Depth/Light.
When you plant your seeds pay attention to your planting depth. This is important because if planted too deep you plants could run out of energy before reaching sunlight. Planting too shallow can lead to drying out.
Some seeds actually need some light to germinate, so instead of digging them down you just press them into your soil. Read your seed packets for information on each seed so you know exactly what each seed type requires.
My seeds sprout and then die!
Everything starts off good. Your seeds germinate and you have little seedlings growing strong. Then all of a sudden they whither up and die! This is often called “dampening off”.
It can be prevented by using these seed starting practices:
Do not over water.
Too much moisture allows disease to grow and plants to mold. Once your seeds have germinated, water your seedlings only when the soil is beginning to dry out.
Watering from the bottom is best, but do not allow them to sit in standing water once they are done taking it in.
Do not overcrowd.
Your plants need room to breathe. A room with good airflow, as well as enough space between the plants will help them stay healthy.
Start with clean soil.
Oftentimes disease in seedlings is caused by disease that is laying dormant in your soil or in your seed starting pots. Wash your seed pots and trays each year before planting.
Consider buying a sterile soil if you have a major problem, that is not cured by the already mentioned steps.
You can also pasteurize your soil prior to use.
My seedlings are tall, thin, and leggy!
Legginess is a common problem in plants that are started indoors and it is caused by the seedlings having to compete and stretch for their light source.
Here are a couple of ways to reduce the tall, leggy appearance of your seedlings:
Rotate your trays.
If you are using a south facing window, make sure to rotate your plants a couple of times a day so that all plants have an equal time closest to the window.
Even if you are using an artificial grow light, rotating the plants within your trays is still a good idea so that all get equal time directly under the light.
Take advantage of warm, sunny days.
If you have a warm day, set your seedlings outside in a protected area for a few hours. They will benefit from the direct sunlight, as well as get a head start on the hardening off process.
Use a grow light in addition to your sunny window to ensure the optimum daylight length of 15-18 hours.
Thin out your seedlings.
The more crowded they are, the more they will have to compete for light.
Not knowing my sun pattern was an expensive gardening mistake. I could have avoided this if I had made a sun map of my garden way back in the beginning.
Had I made a sun map of my property and then chosen a spot for my garden based on that, I’d have much better harvests from my garden because I’d be able to plant more efficiently!
Even if you already have a garden plot that your sticking with, a sun map can help you plan your garden so it makes more sense.
It’s super easy to make a sun map and once you have one it makes garden planning much simpler.
There are a few different methods you can use:
Write it down: Draw a map of your garden, or yard and write down when the sun first hits each area. Take notes every hour for a full day. If it’s an area that goes back into shade as the day progresses, write that time down also.
Photos: Pictures are an excellent way to track the sun’s movement across your garden/property. Take a picture of your yard or garden every hour starting with sunrise. Take the photos from the same exact spot each time. You’ll be able to compare all the photos and see how many hours of sunlight each section gets.
This is a great method because it makes it easy to flip back through the images and see patterns you may not have thought to write down in the above method.
OFF SEASON SUN MAPPING
Of course, if it’s not the growing season when you’re doing this your calculations are going to be slightly off. You’ll need a sun calculator or estimator for now.
Apps: There are several apps that can track sunlight for you. Sun Surveyor can help you to track the sun over the area you chose. Sun Locator lite and Sun Seeker – Sunrise Sunset Tracker are both great for gardeners. There are dozens of free apps to choose from just hit up your play or apple store.
Sun calculator: Use an online Sun Calculator to map the sun over your garden. SunCalc.org is one that I like. Just pick your location on the map, change the date and time and it will calculate where the sun will be in the sky.
I was looking to plant at the front of my house, I would advance the time until the sun line clears the house and use that to determine how many hours of sunlight that area gets.
This is an awesome tool if you’re planting in an area for the first time, just moved etc.
Of course, as the months change the sun’s angle will be changing slightly, so you’ll also want to check that against your projected harvest dates to make sure that something like a house won’t be in the way 3 months from now.
The closer you live to the equator the less of an angle the sun will have in winter, but I’m pretty far away up here in Pennsylvania.
This can also come in handy when deciding where to put a greenhouse or sunroom.
Of course, all the estimates and calculations pale in comparison to actually experiencing gardening in your particular spot. Logic says a garden in front of a 30-foot tree will be in shade longer than one by a 10-foot tree, but how does that translate to your trees?
Plan your garden using these estimates now, then as the growing season progresses take note of any adjustments that need to be made for next year.
While I do still make mistakes with my plant placement, since I started sun mapping my garden it’s much easier to find the right spot for each plant!
I love growing veggies and herbs in containers on my sunny deck. But, when it’s time to clean and store the pots for winter, I need to find a new use for the spent potting soil.
Many gardeners simply dispose of old potting soil in their garbage or city compost bins, but there are several ways to put that old potting soil to work in your garden:
1. Use it to top existing flower and vegetable garden beds
2. Spread it thinly over the lawn
3. Dump it in newly built raised beds as a start to filling them
Even if your winter weather is frightful, there’s still a lot of gardening you can do, inside and outside.
covered in ice on a winters day amanda jackson/getty images
Those gardeners who lock their sheds and hang up their tools until spring are missing out on a great season to garden — winter. There’s still lots to do, indoors and out.
Winter gives me time for one of my favorite things — sorting all my seeds and deciding what to plant in the spring. I browse through seed catalogs and scroll through websites, looking at all the new and old varieties. When the first seed display shows up at the store, I’m drawn to it like a magnet to steel.
Here are 12 ideas for what to do with your idle gardening hands in the wintertime.
Start a Garden Journal
Take stock of your garden and start writing about it in a journal. Many garden journals are filled with prompts to help you decide what to write about.
Grow Food Indoors
You can start with microgreens, or consider edible plants with a hydroponic system.
Organize Your Seeds and Place Orders for More Seeds
Have you accumulated a big pile of seeds? The McManuses suggest sorting through them all.
When stored properly, many flower and vegetable seeds remain viable for several years. Toss old packets and make a list of seeds to buy for spring. Buy or order your seeds as soon as possible to avoid finding a “sold out” banner across the picture of that one tomato variety you planned to make the centerpiece of your garden.
Get Rid of Unused Pesticides
Wintertime is also a good time to clear out pesticides you no longer plan to use. And be sure to dispose of them properly!
Many counties and cities specify days and locations where you can drop off unwanted chemicals. During winter months, they’re often less busy than in spring and fall when everyone’s cleaning out their garage.
Clean, Sharpen and Organize Your Tools
The best time to clean and sharpen any tool is right after you use it. The next best time is the off-season.
If your gardening tools are scattered all over, round them up and give them a home base. Doing that, and painting wood handles with bright colors that will stand out in the garden, should help you avoid losing too many tools.
Tend Houseplants
Winter is the perfect time to tend houseplants. Check them regularly for signs of insect pests and make sure they’re getting enough water. If they look dusty, give them a good rinse in the shower.
Treat yourself to a few new houseplants, too. Many garden centers are well-stocked all winter long. Go on days when temperatures are above freezing, or bundle up your new houseplant in several bags and park close to the door so you don’t expose it to frigid temps.
Design a New Garden
Whether you do it yourself or with the help of a professional, winter is the perfect time to design garden renovations or a whole new garden. Find gardeners you like on Instagram, YouTube and TikTok for inspiration.
Get Estimates for Big Projects
If your garden plans call for big-ticket items like a potting shed or new fence, start researching contractors. Ask for recommendations from your gardening community and read online reviews. Then contact several contractors for estimates. They may want to wait until spring, but you’ll have made that important initial contact.
Join a Local Garden Club or Master Gardeners Group
Winter is a great time to join a local garden club. If you aren’t sure if there’s one in your area, check the listings maintained by National Garden Clubs. To learn more about gardening, check out your state’s Master Gardener program. Classes are offered throughout the year.
Visit a Local Botanical Garden or Plant Conservatory
If you live near a botanical garden or plant conservatory, it’s fun to visit them in winter. When the snow is flying, one of the nicest places to be is inside a conservatory filled with tropical plants. The scent of leaf mold and soil will get you excited for warm weather in your own garden.
Weed Your Garden
According to Tasha Greer, author of Weed-Free Gardening: A Comprehensive and Organic Approach to Weed Management, weed-proof your garden in the winter.
If it doesn’t snow where you live, rake up small weed seedlings and expose their roots to cold temperatures or sunlight so they don’t re-root. You can also deprive them of sunlight by covering them with cardboard, topped by layers of leaves, wood chips or mulch.
Walk Through Your Garden
Don’t stay inside all winter. When weather permits, walk through your garden and look for signs of trouble so you can address them right away.
Plants heaving out of the soil? Gently push them back in. Signs of rabbits or rodents gnawing on young trees and shrubs? Create a chicken wire barrier to protect those plants. Forgot to mulch your strawberries? Do it as soon as possible. Branches broken on trees? Prune them when you see them.
You get the idea. Even in the winter, there’s always something you can do in or for your garden.
Looking for a way to save your beautiful ferns over the winter and keep them around to grow again next summer? Then today’s article is just for you!
Ferns are one of the most popular plants of all for summer decorating. With their gorgeous, bright green canopy of cascading foliage, they are perfect for bringing life to patios, porches – or any area where shade is more prevalent than pure sunlight.
Ferns truly are the ultimate multi-purpose plant. Not only do they look great in hanging baskets, they are right at home in containers or when planted directly into shaded flowerbeds. Even better, they are extremely low maintenance, requiring little care beyond water to thrive.
One of the most difficult things for gardeners to watch is their once beautiful fern dying off in late fall. Not only is it sad to watch, it can be quite expensive having to repurchase new ferns every spring. But here is the good news – it’s actually quite easy to save your ferns.
How To Save Ferns – The Simple Steps To Success
One thing is for sure, if you allow your fern to get hit by a hard frost, it’s usually too late to bring it back. The first key to saving ferns begins with getting them out of harms way before the bitter cold sets in.
Ferns can handle a bit of chill, and even a light frost for that matter, but not a hard frost or freeze. As temperatures begin to drop in mid to late fall, plants need to be covered or brought indoors on nights when a heavy frost or freeze is expected.
With that in mind, it is a good idea to start preparing your fern for life indoors long before that first blast of cold arrives. And that preparation begins with shaping up your fern for indoor life.
Cutting Back / Pruning
The first step to success in overwintering your fern indoors is pruning. Ferns can can certainly grow quite large through the warm summer months. So large, in fact, that at full size, they can be nearly impossible to find space for indoors.
If your plant is of moderate size, it can be pruned back and kept whole. However, if your fern has grown to massive proportions, you may need to divide it before bringing it inside. If that is the case, we have included instructions for dividing at the end of the article.
For plants you will not be dividing, begin by cutting back any large strands of foliage to create a more manageable plant indoors. Don’t be afraid to take off several inches of growth or more if needed. If indoor space is really limited, you can even cut the plant back entirely, it will still come back in full next spring with proper winter care.
Once pruning is complete, it’s time to give your plant a good washing off. The best way to do this is with a spray from your garden hose. Not only will this remove any clippings, it will also hose off any pests that might try to hitch a free ride into your home.
Be sure to lift the foliage and spray the plant down entirely. Beyond any pests that might be present, this can also help wash off the eggs of pests that may be lying in wait. Once the plant has dried off, you are ready to bring it indoors!
Bringing Indoors – How To Save Ferns
If your fern is good to go without splitting, allow it to thoroughly dry out before bringing indoors. We actually hang ours from our clothesline in the afternoon sun to help dry them out completely.
Now it’s time to find the best location for overwintering indoors. For best results, you need to find a location that is cool, but protected from freezing conditions. For many, a basement works great, but a garage, or even a corner in a cool room in the house works well too.
Ferns do not require full sun or bright light to survive through the winter months. In fact, too much light through a window can actually burn the plant’s foliage. That is why it is important to keep them away from southern facing windows, as the rays can still provide too much light.
Ferns survive with ease with simple occasional ambient light from a garage window, or even a basement well window. Less light is always better than too much.
Winter Care – How To Save Ferns Indoors
Ferns do not require much at all to survive the winter indoors. There is no need for fertilizing – really all that is needed is an occasional watering. Check the soil every 5 to 7 days, and water only when the soil has completely dried out.
It is important to remember at this point you are not trying to grow a beautiful plant indoors. Instead, you are simply overwintering and saving the fern until it can once again thrive in the warm summer months.
Knowing this, realize the plant will not look it’s best. The leaves will indeed turn more pale until spring arrives one again. Some will also fall off to the ground. The fern at this point is really in more of a hibernation state than anything – but it will survive.
As warm temperatures return, it’ time to get your fern back outside to regain it’s strength, vigor, and color. Once again, be sure to protect it from spring freeze and frosts too. The more it can be outside, the faster it will come out of its resting state and begin to grow new foliage.
Repotting & Dividing Large Ferns In The Fall – How To Save Ferns& Keep Them Over The Winter
If your ferns are exceptionally large or have outgrown their pots, early Autumn is the best time for dividing and replanting. If you would like to keep the same size fern for next year, a good rule of thumb is to split the fern to a third of its size from its current container.
When splitting and dividing plants, it is best to cut all of the foliage off down to within an inch or two of the base of the plant. Once split, repot into a container, filling in the sides with a regular potting soil mix.
You can also repot the other divisions at this time as well for even more plants. The ferns will regrow a bit overwinter from the cuttings, but will return in full once they are outdoors.
For complete instructions on dividing, check out our article on our sister site This Is My Garden: How To Divide Overgrown Ferns. Here is to keeping those ferns around for another season, and to saving on that gardening budget too! Happy Gardening – Jim and Mary.
It’s best to grow a milkweed that is native to your area so monarch butterflies that visit find the habitat to which they are accustomed. You can grow other species, but the natives are suited to your region. Most milkweeds grow best in full sun, but they will tolerate some shade. With the exception of swamp milkweed, which prefers moist, rich soil, milkweed species will thrive in poor, dry soils and disturbed areas, fields, and ditches. Also keep in mind that milkweed plants have some toxicity — so keep them out of places where livestock may graze and don’t let pets or children chew on them.
Photos courtesy of Prairie Moon Nursery (whorled milkweed); John D. Byrd, Mississippi State University, Bugwood.org (green milkweed); Dave Powell, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org (antelope horns); D.L. Cook (California milkweed)
Milkweed is a host plant for monarch caterpillars
Though adult monarch butterflies sip nectar from many flowers, monarch caterpillars feed exclusively on milkweed plants, specifically those in the genus Asclepias. Monarch butterflies lay their eggs on milkweed plants so their larvae, or caterpillars, have an instant food source once the eggs hatch. Chemicals in the milkweed are ingested by the caterpillars which are toxic to other animals, helping protect them from predators. Caterpillars and adult butterflies are also brightly colored, a natural warning that this insect is toxic.
How to keep milkweed from taking over your garden
Many people consider milkweed a weed, but go ahead and plant those pretty “weeds.” The monarchs will thank you. However, if you are worried about these plants spreading too much or your neighbors complain, there are a few things you can do:
Contain milkweed rhizomes
Since milkweeds multiply through underground rhizomes and by seed, keep a small milkweed clump contained by sinking 12- to 18-inch plastic or metal edging into the ground around the plants. Or periodically spade into the ground around the base of the plants and remove any wandering rhizomes from the soil.
Remove seed pods
You’ll also want to cut green seed pods off so they can’t produce seed. It won’t bother the monarchs — they feed on leaves and stems as caterpillars and nectar as adults, so they won’t even notice the pods are gone!
