Tag: Gardening & Landscaping

The Perennial Plant Association has named ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan its Perennial Plant of the Year for 2023. A hybrid between several species of Rudbeckia, ‘American Gold Rush’ is an easy grower with a compact habit, long late-summer bloom time and foliage that stays healthy. This plant was also recognized as an outstanding perennial by the All-America Selections trialing program in 2020.

Common name: ‘American Gold Rush’ black-eyed Susan

Botanical name: Rudbeckia ‘American Gold Rush’

Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Flowers: Daisy-like flowers appear atop upright stems from midsummer into autumn. The rays are a golden yellow and the cones, deep brown.

Foliage: Medium green, long and narrow, finely haired leaves form a basal clump of foliage. The leaves have shown good resistance to powdery mildew and leaf spot, which can be a problem for Black-eyed Susans.

Habit: ‘American Gold Rush’ grows about two feet tall and it can spread nearly twice as wide. It has a rounded, compact shape.

Origin: This cultivar was first discovered by Illinois-based perennial breeder Brent Horvath in a bed sown with open-pollinated seed. Horvath states it is a hybrid between two, or likely three, rudbeckia species, including R. fulgida var. deamii.

How to grow it: Site ‘American Gold Rush’ rudbeckia in full sun or part shade. It grows best in lean to average soil with good drainage. Avoid fertilizing, which can cause lanky growth amid rudbeckias. Water regularly while the plant is getting established, but thereafter it can tolerate dry periods. Leave seed heads standing for birds in the fall, then cut the plant back in late winter or early spring. This plant may reseed in the garden. USDA Zones 4–9.

Appearing both modern and rustic at the same time, gabions provide an uncommon way to construct hardscape features in your garden that will last for decades to come. Gabion construction is a method used to build structural elements using rock without mortar.

The term “gabion” comes from an Italian word gabbione which simply means “big cage” Gabions can be made into square boxes, curved walls, pillars and more. Let’s check out some inspired landscape design ideas…

#4. Modern Planters

#7. Fountains

The image below features a fountain made with a small pump and a spillway fountain kit. The copper likely came from a rolled sheet of roofing material purchased from the home center.

#9. Raised Beds

Gabion ‘walls’ constructed for a raised bed typically will not need to be very thick since they are low to the ground and have some support once the inside is filled with soil.

I am not aware of any nationwide retailers that carry gabion cages but they are widely available online through a google search. Smaller cages that you can stack together to form walls and other features are sold on Amazon, Ebay, and even Etsy, as well as different shapes for making planters.

View all 12 gabion ideas by clicking the link below.

Source: 12 Gorgeous Gabion Ideas for Backyards – Container Water Gardens

There may not be a parenting road map to help you with tall, gangly teenagers, but I can help you with your tall, leggy seedlings- and a few of the other common indoor seed starting problems you might come across while tending your seeds from sprout to outside.

My seeds never germinate!

Germination problems can be caused by a variety of reasons. Some of the most common are:

Incorrect Temperature.

Different seeds have different needs. Cool weather crops such as cabbage, kale or broccoli have a much lower germination temperature while warm weather crops like tomatoes will germinate better with temperatures in the 70F range.

If you are sprouting your seeds in a cool basement or outbuilding you may need to provide supplemental heat- such as a heating mat– to ensure germination.

Old Seeds.

When properly stored seeds can have a very long shelf life. But the older they get, your germination rate will begin to reduce.

For the longest life, store your seeds in a cold, dry place. Humidity and warmth will greatly reduce your seeds’ shelf life.

Incorrect Watering.

Water in a necessity for all plants. In the germination stage you need to make sure you keep the soil evenly moist.If you water too much, you run the risk of your seeds rotting before they germinate.

If you let them dry out, they will either never germinate or die trying!

I use a handheld pump sprayer to water my seeds- a few times a day sometimes.

Planting Depth/Light.

When you plant your seeds pay attention to your planting depth. This is important because if planted too deep you plants could run out of energy before reaching sunlight. Planting too shallow can lead to drying out.

Some seeds actually need some light to germinate, so instead of digging them down you just press them into your soil. Read your seed packets for information on each seed so you know exactly what each seed type requires.

My seeds sprout and then die!

Everything starts off good. Your seeds germinate and you have little seedlings growing strong. Then all of a sudden they whither up and die! This is often called “dampening off”.

It can be prevented by using these seed starting practices:

Do not over water.

Too much moisture allows disease to grow and plants to mold. Once your seeds have germinated, water your seedlings only when the soil is beginning to dry out.

Watering from the bottom is best, but do not allow them to sit in standing water once they are done taking it in.

Do not overcrowd.

Your plants need room to breathe. A room with good airflow, as well as enough space between the plants will help them stay healthy.

Start with clean soil.

Oftentimes disease in seedlings is caused by disease that is laying dormant in your soil or in your seed starting pots. Wash your seed pots and trays each year before planting.

Consider buying a sterile soil if you have a major problem, that is not cured by the already mentioned steps.

You can also pasteurize your soil prior to use.

My seedlings are tall, thin, and leggy!

Legginess is a common problem in plants that are started indoors and it is caused by the seedlings having to compete and stretch for their light source.

Here are a couple of ways to reduce the tall, leggy appearance of your seedlings:

Rotate your trays.

If you are using a south facing window, make sure to rotate your plants a couple of times a day so that all plants have an equal time closest to the window.

Even if you are using an artificial grow light, rotating the plants within your trays is still a good idea so that all get equal time directly under the light.

Take advantage of warm, sunny days.

If you have a warm day, set your seedlings outside in a protected area for a few hours. They will benefit from the direct sunlight, as well as get a head start on the hardening off process.

Use a grow light in addition to your sunny window to ensure the optimum daylight length of 15-18 hours.

Thin out your seedlings.

The more crowded they are, the more they will have to compete for light.

Source: thefreerangelife.com

Not knowing my sun pattern was an expensive gardening mistake. I could have avoided this if I had made a sun map of my garden way back in the beginning. 

Had I made a sun map of my property and then chosen a spot for my garden based on that, I’d have much better harvests from my garden because I’d be able to plant more efficiently! 

Even if you already have a garden plot that your sticking with, a sun map can help you plan your garden so it makes more sense. 

It’s super easy to make a sun map and once you have one it makes garden planning much simpler.

There are a few different methods you can use:

Write it down: Draw a map of your garden, or yard and write down when the sun first hits each area. Take notes every hour for a full day. If it’s an area that goes back into shade as the day progresses, write that time down also. 

Photos: Pictures are an excellent way to track the sun’s movement across your garden/property. Take a picture of your yard or garden every hour starting with sunrise. Take the photos from the same exact spot each time. You’ll be able to compare all the photos and see how many hours of sunlight each section gets. 

This is a great method because it makes it easy to flip back through the images and see patterns you may not have thought to write down in the above method.

OFF SEASON SUN MAPPING

Of course, if it’s not the growing season when you’re doing this your calculations are going to be slightly off. You’ll need a sun calculator or estimator for now. 

Apps: There are several apps that can track sunlight for you. Sun Surveyor can help you to track the sun over the area you chose. Sun Locator lite and Sun Seeker – Sunrise Sunset Tracker are both great for gardeners. There are dozens of free apps to choose from just hit up your play or apple store. 

Sun calculator: Use an online Sun Calculator to map the sun over your garden. SunCalc.org is one that I like. Just pick your location on the map, change the date and time and it will calculate where the sun will be in the sky.

I was looking to plant at the front of my house, I would advance the time until the sun line clears the house and use that to determine how many hours of sunlight that area gets.

This is an awesome tool if you’re planting in an area for the first time, just moved etc. 

Of course, as the months change the sun’s angle will be changing slightly, so you’ll also want to check that against your projected harvest dates to make sure that something like a house won’t be in the way 3 months from now. 

The closer you live to the equator the less of an angle the sun will have in winter, but I’m pretty far away up here in Pennsylvania. 

This can also come in handy when deciding where to put a greenhouse or sunroom. 

Of course, all the estimates and calculations pale in comparison to actually experiencing gardening in your particular spot. Logic says a garden in front of a 30-foot tree will be in shade longer than one by a 10-foot tree, but how does that translate to your trees? 

Plan your garden using these estimates now, then as the growing season progresses take note of any adjustments that need to be made for next year.

While I do still make mistakes with my plant placement, since I started sun mapping my garden it’s much easier to find the right spot for each plant!

Source: feathersinthewoods.com

I love growing veggies and herbs in containers on my sunny deck. But, when it’s time to clean and store the pots for winter, I need to find a new use for the spent potting soil.

Many gardeners simply dispose of old potting soil in their garbage or city compost bins, but there are several ways to put that old potting soil to work in your garden:

1. Use it to top existing flower and vegetable garden beds

2. Spread it thinly over the lawn

3. Dump it in newly built raised beds as a start to filling them

4. Add it to your compost bins

Source: hortmag.com/container-gardening/old-potting-soil-what-to-do-with-it

Even if your winter weather is frightful, there’s still a lot of gardening you can do, inside and outside.

Those gardeners who lock their sheds and hang up their tools until spring are missing out on a great season to garden — winter. There’s still lots to do, indoors and out.

Winter gives me time for one of my favorite things — sorting all my seeds and deciding what to plant in the spring. I browse through seed catalogs and scroll through websites, looking at all the new and old varieties. When the first seed display shows up at the store, I’m drawn to it like a magnet to steel.

Here are 12 ideas for what to do with your idle gardening hands in the wintertime.

Start a Garden Journal

Take stock of your garden and start writing about it in a journal. Many garden journals are filled with prompts to help you decide what to write about.

Grow Food Indoors

You can start with microgreens, or consider edible plants with a hydroponic system.

Organize Your Seeds and Place Orders for More Seeds

Have you accumulated a big pile of seeds? The McManuses suggest sorting through them all.

When stored properly, many flower and vegetable seeds remain viable for several years. Toss old packets and make a list of seeds to buy for spring. Buy or order your seeds as soon as possible to avoid finding a “sold out” banner across the picture of that one tomato variety you planned to make the centerpiece of your garden.

Get Rid of Unused Pesticides

Wintertime is also a good time to clear out pesticides you no longer plan to use. And be sure to dispose of them properly!

Many counties and cities specify days and locations where you can drop off unwanted chemicals. During winter months, they’re often less busy than in spring and fall when everyone’s cleaning out their garage.

Clean, Sharpen and Organize Your Tools

The best time to clean and sharpen any tool is right after you use it. The next best time is the off-season.

If your gardening tools are scattered all over, round them up and give them a home base. Doing that, and painting wood handles with bright colors that will stand out in the garden, should help you avoid losing too many tools.

Tend Houseplants

Winter is the perfect time to tend houseplants. Check them regularly for signs of insect pests and make sure they’re getting enough water. If they look dusty, give them a good rinse in the shower.

Treat yourself to a few new houseplants, too. Many garden centers are well-stocked all winter long. Go on days when temperatures are above freezing, or bundle up your new houseplant in several bags and park close to the door so you don’t expose it to frigid temps.

Design a New Garden

Whether you do it yourself or with the help of a professional, winter is the perfect time to design garden renovations or a whole new garden. Find gardeners you like on Instagram, YouTube and TikTok for inspiration.

Get Estimates for Big Projects

If your garden plans call for big-ticket items like a potting shed or new fence, start researching contractors. Ask for recommendations from your gardening community and read online reviews. Then contact several contractors for estimates. They may want to wait until spring, but you’ll have made that important initial contact.

Join a Local Garden Club or Master Gardeners Group

Winter is a great time to join a local garden club. If you aren’t sure if there’s one in your area, check the listings maintained by National Garden Clubs. To learn more about gardening, check out your state’s Master Gardener program. Classes are offered throughout the year.

Visit a Local Botanical Garden or Plant Conservatory

If you live near a botanical garden or plant conservatory, it’s fun to visit them in winter. When the snow is flying, one of the nicest places to be is inside a conservatory filled with tropical plants. The scent of leaf mold and soil will get you excited for warm weather in your own garden.

Weed Your Garden

According to Tasha Greer, author of Weed-Free Gardening: A Comprehensive and Organic Approach to Weed Management, weed-proof your garden in the winter.

If it doesn’t snow where you live, rake up small weed seedlings and expose their roots to cold temperatures or sunlight so they don’t re-root. You can also deprive them of sunlight by covering them with cardboard, topped by layers of leaves, wood chips or mulch.

Walk Through Your Garden

Don’t stay inside all winter. When weather permits, walk through your garden and look for signs of trouble so you can address them right away.

Plants heaving out of the soil? Gently push them back in. Signs of rabbits or rodents gnawing on young trees and shrubs? Create a chicken wire barrier to protect those plants. Forgot to mulch your strawberries? Do it as soon as possible. Branches broken on trees? Prune them when you see them.

You get the idea. Even in the winter, there’s always something you can do in or for your garden.

Source: familyhandyman.com

Types of milkweed to support monarch butterflies

It’s best to grow a milkweed that is native to your area so monarch butterflies that visit find the habitat to which they are accustomed. You can grow other species, but the natives are suited to your region. Most milkweeds grow best in full sun, but they will tolerate some shade. With the exception of swamp milkweed, which prefers moist, rich soil, milkweed species will thrive in poor, dry soils and disturbed areas, fields, and ditches. Also keep in mind that milkweed plants have some toxicity — so keep them out of places where livestock may graze and don’t let pets or children chew on them.

Photos courtesy of Prairie Moon Nursery (whorled milkweed); John D. Byrd, Mississippi State University, Bugwood.org (green milkweed); Dave Powell, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org (antelope horns); D.L. Cook (California milkweed)

Milkweed is a host plant for monarch caterpillars

Though adult monarch butterflies sip nectar from many flowers, monarch caterpillars feed exclusively on milkweed plants, specifically those in the genus Asclepias. Monarch butterflies lay their eggs on milkweed plants so their larvae, or caterpillars, have an instant food source once the eggs hatch. Chemicals in the milkweed are ingested by the caterpillars which are toxic to other animals, helping protect them from predators. Caterpillars and adult butterflies are also brightly colored, a natural warning that this insect is toxic.

How to keep milkweed from taking over your garden

Many people consider milkweed a weed, but go ahead and plant those pretty “weeds.” The monarchs will thank you. However, if you are worried about these plants spreading too much or your neighbors complain, there are a few things you can do:

Contain milkweed rhizomes

Since milkweeds multiply through underground rhizomes and by seed, keep a small milkweed clump contained by sinking 12- to 18-inch plastic or metal edging into the ground around the plants. Or periodically spade into the ground around the base of the plants and remove any wandering rhizomes from the soil.

Remove seed pods

You’ll also want to cut green seed pods off so they can’t produce seed. It won’t bother the monarchs — they feed on leaves and stems as caterpillars and nectar as adults, so they won’t even notice the pods are gone!

BY:  Jennifer Howell

Source: gardengatemagazine©

Compost is decomposed organic material. Compost is made with material such as leaves, shredded twigs, and kitchen scraps from plants. To gardeners, compost is considered “black gold” because of its many benefits in the garden. Compost is a great material for garden soil. Adding compost to clay soils makes them easier to work and plant. In sandy soils, the addition of compost improves the water holding capacity of the soil. By adding organic matter to the soil, compost can help improve plant growth and health.

Composting is also a good way to recycle leaves and other yard waste. Instead of paying a company to haul away leaves, you can compost the leaves and return the nutrients to your garden. Instead of buying peat moss, save money and make your own compost!

photo credit: coloradostateu

The composting process

The composting process involves four main components: organic matter, moisture, oxygen, and bacteria.

Organic matter includes plant materials and some animal manures. Organic materials used for compost should include a mixture of brown organic material (dead leaves, twigs, manure) and green organic material (lawn clippings, and fruit rinds).

• Brown materials supply carbon, while green materials supply nitrogen.
• The best ratio is 1 part green to 1 part brown material.
• Shredding, chopping or mowing these materials into smaller pieces will help speed the composting process by increasing the surface area.
• For piles that have mostly brown material (dead leaves), try adding a handful of commercial 10-10-10 fertilizer to supply nitrogen and speed the compost process.

Moisture is important to support the composting process. Compost should be comparable to the wetness of a wrung-out sponge.

• If the pile is too dry, materials will decompose very slowly. Add water during dry periods or when adding large amounts of brown organic material.
• If the pile is too wet, turn the pile and mix the materials. Another option is to add dry, brown organic materials.

For most efficient composting, use a pile that is between 3 feet cubed and 5 feet cubed (27-125 cu. ft.).

Oxygen is needed to support the breakdown of plant material by bacteria. To supply oxygen, you will need to turn the compost pile so that materials at the edges are brought to the center of the pile. Turning the pile is important for complete composting and for controlling odor.

• Wait at least two weeks before turning the pile, to allow the center of the pile to “heat up” and decompose.
• Once the pile has cooled in the center, decomposition of the materials has taken place.
• Frequent turning will help speed the composting process.

Bacteria and other microorganisms are the real workers in the compost process. By supplying organic materials, water, and oxygen, the already present bacteria will break down the plant material into useful compost for the garden. As the bacteria decompose the materials, they release heat, which is concentrated in the center of the pile.

• You may also add layers of soil or finished compost to supply more bacteria and speed the composting process. Commercial starters are available but should not be necessary for compost piles that have a proper carbon to nitrogen ratio (1 part green organic material to 1 part brown organic material).
• In addition to bacteria, larger organisms including insects and earthworms are active composters. These organisms break down large materials in the compost pile.

How long does it take?

The amount of time needed to produce compost depends on several factors, including the size of the compost pile, the types of materials, the surface area of the materials, and the number of times the pile is turned.

For most efficient composting, use a pile that is between 3 feet cubed and 5 feet cubed (27-125 cu. ft.). This allows the center of the pile to heat up sufficiently to break down materials.

Smaller piles can be made but will take longer to produce finished compost. Larger piles can be made by increasing the length of the pile but limiting the height and the depth to 5 feet tall by 5 feet deep; however, large piles are limited by a person’s ability to turn the materials. You may also want to have two piles, one for finished compost ready to use in the garden, and the other for unfinished compost.

If the pile has more brown organic materials, it may take longer to compost. You can speed up the process by adding more green materials or a fertilizer with nitrogen (use one cup per 25 square feet).

The surface area of the materials effects the time needed for composting. By breaking materials down into smaller parts (chipping, shredding, mulching leaves), the surface area of the materials will increase. This helps the bacteria to more quickly break down materials into compost.

Finally, the number of times the pile is turned influences composting speed. By turning more frequently (about every 2-4 weeks), you will produce compost more quickly. Waiting at least two weeks allows the center of the pile to heat up and promotes maximum bacterial activity. The average composter turns the pile every 4-5 weeks.

When turning the compost pile, make sure that materials in the center are brought to the outsides, and that materials from the outside edges are brought to the center.

With frequent turning, compost can be ready in about 3 months, depending on the time of year. In winter, the activity of the bacteria slows, and it is recommended that you stop turning the pile after November to keep heat from escaping the pile’s center. In summer, warm temperatures encourage bacterial activity and the composting process is quicker

Using compost in the yard

Incorporate compost into your garden as you prepare the soil in the spring. Cover the area with 3-4 inches of soil and till it in to at least the upper 6 inches of soil. Add compost to soil in vegetable gardens, annual flower beds, and around new perennials as they are planted. You may also use compost as mulch around flower beds, vegetable gardens, or around trees or shrubs in landscape beds. Apply a 3-inch layer. Be careful not to apply mulch close to the main stem or trunk of the plant.

Source: From Composting in the Home Garden, Illinois Extension

Learn how to overwinter geraniums in just a few simple steps and you can protect your pelargoniums from the winter weather

(Image credit: Claire Gainey/Alamy Stock Photos)

How to overwinter geraniums is one of gardening’s most asked questions because so many of us grow them.

These tender perennials, also known as pelargoniums, are indispensable when planning your garden thanks to their pink, red and white petals that make them one of the best plants for long-lasting summer color in borders and planters.

They are easy to cultivate, happy in most soils, undemanding and relatively problem-free. But because they are tender, they need extra care during the colder months.

I live on the relatively mild south coast of England, which gives me enviable versatility when it comes to winterizing geraniums. Larger ones can risk staying outside in a sheltered spot, while I move smaller plants into the frost-free greenhouse for the colder months.

But not everyone is this lucky and if you live in colder or more exposed regions, you will need to protect your plants from frost and give your geraniums some extra winter care.

SIMPLE TIPS FOR HOW TO OVERWINTER GERANIUMS SUCCESSFULLY

Overwintering geraniums is not difficult as long as they are kept safe from frosty conditions and spend the cold weather in a healthy, well-lit and well-ventilated spot. 

Depending on where you live and whether you grow your pelargoniums in pots or in the ground, there are several things to think about when considering how to overwinter geraniums. Here, I’ll talk you through the main methods, which should help you see your plants safely through the coldest months.

1. CUT BACK YOUR GERANIUMS BEFORE WINTER

Cutting back the summer’s growth is a good idea before overwintering geraniums as it helps keep them healthy, and smaller plants with shorter branches take up less room so you can fit more of them into your greenhouse or on a windowsill.

Using a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or secateurs reduce the branches to 4-6in (10-15cm). If you’re wondering whether to use bypass vs anvil pruners for this job, bypass designs are your best bet. 

If you fancy, you can also use the off-cuts as softwood cuttings. Taking cuttings from plants is a very simple form of propagation and acts as an ‘insurance policy’ if any of your mature plants die in winter. 

2. SHELTER YOUR GERANIUMS OVER WINTER

It’s important to provide some sort of shelter or protection from cold temperatures over winter and there are a couple of ways you can do this. 

The first option is to lift your geraniums from the soil and pot them up in multi purpose compost before storing them in a greenhouse, sheltered mini greenhouse or a cool, light windowsill indoors.

The second is for gardens in warmer zones where you may have large showcase plants as a part of your summer container ideas. If the planters are too large to move into a greenhouse, relocate them to a sheltered area of the garden. 

Raise them up on feet so excess water can escape and be prepared to cover them with horticultural fleece(opens in new tab) or freeze protection(opens in new tab), both available from Amazon, on very cold nights. Remove it when temperatures rise the next morning, otherwise it may trap condensation which can cause molds and rotting. 

Do bear in mind that the risk of losing tender plants is always greater if they are left outside.

3. PROVIDE ONGOING CARE OVER WINTER TO KEEP THEM ALIVE

Once they are potted up and moved somewhere sheltered or frost-free for winter, overwintering geraniums is easy as long as you avoid a few pitfalls.

• Watering: Water geraniums when you pot them up, but after that they shouldn’t need watering again through winter because they are dormant and not growing. You can water plants to give them a small drink if they start to go limp, but this is unlikely to be necessary until late winter or early spring.
• Feeding: Fertilizing plants isn’t necessary until spring when they start to grow again. Then give them a solution of general-purpose liquid fertilizer in water.
• Good airflow: Make sure your plants stay well ventilated through winter to keep fungal diseases such as Botrytis cinerea at bay. Open greenhouse doors and windows on milder days and close them at night when it starts to get chilly.

• Pests: A key part of knowing how to overwinter geraniums is to make sure you regularly check plants for pests that like to hang out in the warmth of a winter greenhouse. Be especially alert for aphids and mealybugs. Squish small colonies with your fingers or use an organic spray on larger infestations.
• Pinching out: Geraniums may start to grow again and even develop flower buds during mild spells and towards the end of winter. Unfortunately, flower buds take a lot of energy to produce and leaving them to open can deplete the plant of resources needed for summer growth, so pinch them off when you spot them.

Article by Ruth Hayes Gardening editor

Source: Gardeningetc