Influencers Convinced Me to Buy the Hovet Ikea Mirror, and I Don’t Regret It at All
If your social media looks anything like mine, you’ve seen the HOVET Ikea mirror all over your timeline for the past year. I didn’t pay much attention to it at first, riding it off as yet another influencer product I truly didn’t need. After all, cheap, over-the-door hanging mirrors that slightly warped my reflection usually got the job done anyway. Albeit why would I need this one?
But now that I’m staying home more, I’ve decided to invest in my space. I’m filling it with more thoughtful and useful pieces. They certainly don’t need to be expensive. Instead, I’m looking for quality, long-lasting pieces that improve my daily routines.
I recently moved and found myself in need of a new full-length mirror. I no longer wanted to rely on self-timer photos to check my outfits. I scoured the internet for one that met these standards with no luck. Subsequently finding myself returning to that familiar mirror I’d seen far too many times. After reading dozens of glowing reviews, I decided to give it a try. I’m so glad I did.
Measuring
I measured time and time again before its arrival, but nothing could have prepared me for how big this mirror actually is. At only 5’2″, I can barely reach the top of it when standing on the floor. I decided to lean it against my wall. However, mounting fixtures are included if I later decide to hang the mirror vertically or horizontally. The only downside I’ve noticed so far is the mirror’s weight. Given that the mirror is 42 pounds and almost 6.5 feet tall, I’m thankful I don’t have to move it too often.
The mirror framing is made of aluminum, which gives it a modern look, but it can be easily upgraded with spray paint or string lights. A quick search of the mirror on social media will leave you with endless inspiration.
In all honesty, I’m not sure a mirror of this quality and size exists for a better price. It makes my New York City bedroom feel so much larger than it is. Most importantly, I know it will last for years and through many more apartments.
The Mirror
At almost 6.5 feet fall and 2.5 feet wide, its large and heavy. Also, the Ikea HOVET Mirror makes the room feel much larger than it is.
Framed with aluminum, the Ikea HOVET Mirror gives off a sleek, modern look and goes well with any of your existing decor!
Trust me, your mirror selfies will truly get an upgrade with the Ikea HOVET Mirror.
There are Charlie Brown Christmas trees and then there are gorgeously plump pines, but somewhere in the middle are the perfectly sparse and aesthetically clean option: the sparse tree.
Typically, a sparse plant isn’t necessarily a good thing. But designers are turning the tables these days. Emily Henderson made the 7′ Unlit Artificial Balsam Fir Christmas Tree from Target in her Portland house look effortlessly chic, using a combination of gorgeous black and white ornaments, plus a touch of red and gold.
Similarly, Bri Moysa of Emerson Grey Designs took an IKEA tree and made it look much more expensive by adding in natural elements and simple ornaments.
The sparse tree effect works especially well if don’t have the space in your home to get a massive tree or you’re just looking for something new and different. It somehow manages to appear both farmhouse chic and clean and modern all at once, and it works in both formal settings or more casual rooms.
Investing in a good artificial tree also allows you to change the look from season to season, using it in a variety of rooms and settings. Many faux trees are pre-lit, so you won’t have to struggle with wrapping and camouflaging cords, which also detracts from the clean aesthetic you’re seeking.
Here, lifestyle blogger Julie Blanner created a delicate skinny tree, dressing it simply in garland for a look that lets the beauty of the tree itself shine through. It’s a clean, peaceful aesthetic.
JULIE BLANNER
And, here, Blanner dresses the same tree with pale pink glass ornaments and faux crystal and pearl garland for an understated yet gorgeous appearance. It’s an excellent example of “less is more.”
Are you a fan of the sparse Christmas tree trend?
Article by Taylor Mead and Erricca Elin Sansone for House Beautiful.
As the times changed, so did my design style. When it became clear that my stairs needed an upgrade, and I was unable to find an affordable runner carpet that I liked, I went for the full-on painted stairs. Although there were a few glitches along the way, it was a pretty easy project to do.
MATERIALS AND TOOLS – Paint – Primer – Tape measure – Painter’s tape – Carpenter’s square
STEP 1: Prime and tape
I decided to go with a low-luster enamel paint. I chose the Porch and Patio Floor paint from Behr and had it color-matched to go with my furniture. After first priming and painting the stairs in my base color (which happens to be the same color as the house’s trim), I went to work on taping. I used a tape measure and decided how wide I wanted my center “runner” to be, used the angle to get a straight line, and then used painter’s tape to create a line on each step. It definitely gets tricky going over the lip and trim pieces, so you want to make sure you seal the edges well.
STEP 2: Measure
After getting the first piece of tape on, I marked the width of my trusty DVD case (we were watching The Lion King, so why not?), made a straight line with the angle, and applied this next line of tape parallel to the first (making sure again to seal the edges well). Then I did it all over again on the other side of the stairs.
Side note: I have a sweet reader who reminded me of a very special tip (that I forgot until AFTER the stairs were painted). Paint over your tape edges with your base color. If you do so, you will seal the tape with the base color, and the next color (in my case gray) cannot get under that pesky tape. BRILLIANT!
STEP 3: Paint.
Once I had finished the stripes, I then painted the tread of the stairs. You may want to paint every other step, giving yourself a dry place to step up and down, but I chose not to do that, since there was enough dry room on the sides. Let it be noted that I did use a paint additive to give the stairs a little rough texture and create traction. I didn’t want my little girl to wake up one January morning, socks on feet, and slipping down the stairs to me. Additive can easily be found in the paint section of your paint store.
Photo credit: Painted Therapy
And there she is! I’ve decided I like the stairs. They are much easier to clean too, as I just sweep down and vacuum up. I chose not to put poly on the stairs, but I have no problem with them looking “worn” over time. By then, I’m sure my decorating style will have changed again anyway.
Swiffer products may be convenient and easy to use, but cleaning experts say they’re not safe for all surfaces. From marble surfaces to wooden decks, there are a few areas where you shouldn’t be using a Swiffer to clean
Marble surfaces
Remember your chemistry lesson on pH balances, acids, and alkalines? There are acidic foods like cheese and beef, and alkaline ones like avocados and lettuce. The same is true of cleaners, says Carol Smith, the owner of Hire A Maid. “Because the Swiffer Wet Jet has a pH level of ten, making it alkaline, it isn’t suited for any delicate surfaces like marble that require a neutral six to eight pH cleaner,” she explains. “We really like the Weiman line of products and use their Laminate & Stone Floor Cleaner for marble.”
Laminate floor
Again, the Swiffer presents an alkaline issue. Plus, it might not be the most effective option, says Amanda Weatherholt, crew leader with Housekeeping Associates of Ann Arbor, Michigan. “The Wet Jet leaves the floor streaky and just moves the dirt around—it does not clean the floor,” she says. Her solution: “I have found the best thing to use on a laminate floor is a small drop of Dawn dish soap with hot water,” she says.
Vinyl floor
“Swiffer Wet Jet is a very poor choice,” says Dean Davies, cleaning and maintenance supervisor for U.K. home service company Fantastic Services. “It takes a lot more effort to scrub tough spots, and it won’t be as effective as the regular mop.” What’s more, says Davies, you will need at least four pads to clean a regular-sized kitchen. “It’s an environmental and economic disaster!” he says. “And the floor can end up sticky and even dirtier because their cleaning solvent tends to dry very fast, leaving a sticky residue if not cleaned fast and well.” He recommends using something like this commercial-grade microfiber mop to clean a vinyl floor or an E-Cloth mop to remove the most stubborn of stains.
Wooden deck
If you want to clean off your grungy wooden deck, step away from the Swiffer. “The Wet Jet is not suitable for wooden deck cleaning, because its pads are almost as thin as paper towels,” says Davies. “Wood deck surfaces are often harsh and will most certainly strip apart the Swiffer pads.” Instead, Davies says, use a regular mop and Citra Clean Concentrate Cleaner, “as it will be gentle to the wood and won’t leave any marks.” If your deck is a mess and your Swiffer is your cleaning option, check the label to see if it’s formulated for your wood’s finish. Swiffer is safe on finished floors but steer clear of using it if your deck is waxed, oiled or unfinished.
Plastic mats
The plastic surfaces in your bathroom just won’t get very clean with a Swiffer. And you may not realize that your plastic mats—and shower curtain liners—can be tossed in the washing machine to remove spills and grime, says Jennifer Gregory, brand manager of Molly Maid. “Wash them with a towel, which will generate scrubbing action on the plastic items,” she says. “Washing machines can also disinfect: Add a half cup of vinegar and run it on a sanitizing cycle. Don’t worry—the smell does not linger!” Just don’t toss them into the dryer, where the high heat could damage the plastic, warns Gregory.
Carpets and rugs
Your home’s carpet may be harboring harmful bacteria, germs, and allergens without you realizing it, says Gregory. A Swiffer won’t properly clean it; instead, keep carpets clean by instilling a strict “no shoes” policy indoors, she advises. “Also, vacuum carpets and area rugs several times a week,” she says. “If you have an infant or a toddler, daily vacuuming is recommended; the vacuum can remove surface debris easily.” You should also get a professional steam clean at least once a year to give it a deeper clean, Gregory suggests.
Indoor wood floors
“The Swiffer is fantastic at covering tiled and wooden floor space; it’s obviously less effective at accessing floor corners, and actually this is where most dirt and dust tends to build up,” says Sean Parry, founder of London-based cleaning company Neat. His team ensures a thorough cleaning by pairing a Swiffer with a standard mop like the Vileda microfiber mop for the corners. “Sometimes when we encounter a particularly dirty floor, we find that the best solution is to simply hand-wipe the area with a microfiber cloth,” Parry adds. “This is obviously more time-consuming, but it’s unusual that we’ll have to hand-wipe an entire floor.”
Indoor tiles
In lieu of a Swiffer, Parry likes the E-Cloth Deep Clean Mop. “Although it has a similar design to the Swiffer, with a large rectangular mop head, we really like the fact that E-Cloth is an entirely water-based technology,” he says. “It’s actually so effective that only a small amount of water needs to be sprayed from the mop head to give a great result when cleaning. No additional cleaning products are required, which means no chance of soapy residue or potential damage to different flooring types.”
Keeping your home clutter-free may be a worthwhile endeavor, but storing your less frequently used items anywhere you can find space isn’t always a smart move. In fact, if you’re stashing all those items in your basement, you could be making a costly mistake. From moisture to mice, there are countless ways those things stored beneath your home could come to harm. If you want to ensure you’re not accidentally ruining your prized possessions, read on to discover which things you should never store in your basement.
1. Firewood
That pricey cord of firewood won’t do much good to keep you warm if it’s kept in your basement. The humidity in your basement can make that wood damp—and less than ideal for starting a fire. Worse yet, it could lead to a bug or mouse problem in the future.
2. Snacks
It may be convenient to use your basement as a de facto pantry, but if you’re storing food down there—especially stuff in easily chewed-through plastic or paper bags—it may not be long before your house is home to unwanted visitors.
3. Pet Food
The same goes for your pet’s food: If you’re storing Fido’s kibble in your basement, you’re asking for pests to make it their home.
4. Cardboard Boxes
While plastic storage boxes may keep things safe in your basement, cardboard boxes could actually attract pests.
5. Humidifiers
A surprising item you shouldn’t keep in your basement? Anything that creates moisture, such as humidifiers. Instead, add a dehumidifier to your basement to keep pests at bay.
6. Magazines
Think you can safely store that stack of old magazines you’re saving for inspiration in your basement? Think again. “These are a food source for insects such as silverfish, and stacks/piles provide a safe place for spiders and insects to hang out,” explains Troyano.
7. Instruments
While you may want your kids’ instruments to stop cluttering up the living room, the basement isn’t the right place to store them.
“The basement is the worst place to store an instrument,” says Lucas Workman, a brass repair technician at Siegfried’s Call, a New York-based horn outfitter. “Moisture…can affect the finish of the instrument. The residual water in them can grow into mold, [and] the pads and the fabric in woodwinds can start to crack.”
8. Photos
Your beloved family photo albums won’t be long for this world if you’re keeping them in the basement. “Your photos will not survive humid environments and over time, even dryness will make them brittle,” says Karin Socci, a Master Certified KonMari Consultant and owner of The Serene Home. “It’s far better to transfer the media to cloud-based formats so that you will have images that are easy to share.”
9. Family Heirlooms
If you’ve got family heirlooms you’re hoping to pass on, it’s never a safe bet to store them in the basement. “A pipe could burst or unusual weather activity could cause unexpected flooding,” says Socci. “If you have ever witnessed the aftereffects of a flooded basement, you know that water and mildew spare nothing.”
10. Paperwork
The deed to your house, your car title, and your tax return should be stored somewhere safe—but your basement isn’t that place. “Documents should not be kept in either the attic or the basement,” says professional organizer Susan Santoro, founder of organizing website Organized31. Instead, she recommends keeping them in a climate-controlled home office, or somewhere else with fewer temperature fluctuations.
11. Bedding
Humid environments, like basements, are prime real estate for mold and mildew, meaning you won’t want to store bedding down there unless it’s well-sealed. Even if they don’t get moldy, you probably don’t want to press your face and body against something that smells like a basement, anyway.
12. Toys
Your children’s beloved toys have no business in your basement. Firstly, there’s the ever-present risk of mold and mildew. Secondly, basement storage means you’re risking water damage courtesy of burst pipes. Thirdly, the brutal cold and intense heat you may find in a basement without an HVAC system can also cause the batteries inside electronic toys to burst. And lastly, two words: pest damage.
13. Bikes
Putting your bike in the basement may keep it out of the way, but it can also make it unusable when you need it. The temperature fluctuations in your basement can cause your tires to lose pressure, so it’s best to store it in a more climate-controlled space when possible.
14. Wine
If you want to keep your wine delicious and drinkable, your basement—with its fluctuating temperatures—isn’t the place to do so. According to Wine Spectator, the ideal conditions for storing wine are between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, and between 50 and 80 percent humidity—parameters your basement is likely to exceed, especially if you also use it as a laundry room.
15. Gasoline
If your basement is home to your furnace, it’s probably a good idea to keep spare gas cans somewhere else. As a general rule, anything combustible, like gasoline, should be given wide berth from potential fire hazards like furnaces.
16. Cat Litter
Surprisingly enough, cat litter is yet another product you’re better off keeping out of the basement. In addition to potentially clumping when it’s exposed to moisture like the humidity in your basement, if you’re actually letting your pet use your basement as a bathroom, litter dust could actually corrode your furnace, according to the experts at Standard Heating & Air Conditioning.
17. Propane Tanks
The temperature fluctuations in your basement make it a poor choice for storing propane. Propane tanks can explode if left in extreme heat, so if your basement gets unseasonably warm, it could spell danger.
Every time you drive up to your home, do you wish you had a more modern mailbox or a new light fixture? Well, make sure you get any of those exterior projects done this fall. You may want to consider a new exterior light fixture, mailbox, and house numbers. These will add the finishing touch that says ‘welcome to our home. Before the snow flies or before those holiday guests arrive, get those exterior projects completed.
Build a fire pit in your backyard
Another luxury to consider adding in the fall is a backyard fire pit. During the colder nights, your friends and family can huddle around the fire, roasting marshmallows and exchanging ghost stories. What could be better?
Switch to a smart thermostat
Everyone wants to slash their energy bill during the colder months, and the perfect solution might just be upgrading to a smart thermostat. These snazzy gizmos will automatically adjust to an energy-saving mode when no one’s home, so you no longer have to worry about whether or not you changed the temperature before you left the house. It’ll save your bill from rising more than necessary and will keep you nice and cozy all fall and winter long.
Add mulch to your yard
Don’t neglect the outside of your home when it comes to making changes this fall. Adding mulch can protect much of your greenery before the winter months set in, shielding roots from snow and ice and prepping your soil for the next growing season.
Insulate your attic
If you’re looking for more ways to make sure your home stays warm as the temperatures drop outside, consider making use of insulation. The experts at Pivotal Home Solutions in Naperville, Illinois, recommend insulating your home in the fall to seal in the heat. This will slash the costs of your electric bills early on, before the real cold creeps in.
Not sure how much insulation you need? Energy Star says a suitable level of insulation in your attic is R-38, or around 10 to 14 inches thick.
When shopping for home decor, there’s a whole lexicon of design-world terms that might be unfamiliar to a regular shopper. But many of these terms actually have a pretty significant impact on the product you’re looking to buy. So we’re here to help you decode some of the most common interior design words you might stumble upon on your next shopping excursion—to help you make the most informed purchase.
FURNITURE
Bench-made: Officially, bench-made furniture is crafted by a single highly trained artisan from start to finish; some retailers, however, used the term to signify high-quality handmade pieces, regardless of how many people work on them.
8-way hand-tied: A high-quality type of suspension in the seat of a sofa where springs are tied by hand in eight directions; usually more expensive due to the quality of craftsmanship.
Kiln-dried wood: Lumber that has been dried in an oven to the desired level of moisture; kiln-drying is a more precise (and quicker) method than air-drying
Modular: A series of pieces of furniture that can be combined in different configurations, such as kitchen cabinets or sofas with interchangeable parts like chaises
Composite: A durable material made from a combination of other materials, like wood, plastic, and adhesive that’s oftentimes covered with a veneer for a more attractive finish.
Leather grain: Grain refers to the outer layers of a hide, but it’s also used to denote the finish on a leather product. Full-grain leather means the leather has not been altered in any way; it’s the highest-quality leather, and the most durable. Top-grain leather is still high-quality, but it’s been sanded down to remove imperfections from the hide.
Patina: The quality of a surface that has developed a certain worn or weathered appearance over time that’s often valued aesthetically; on a copper surface, this may be a green film, or on a wood surface, this may be a wearing down of the finish or chipping of paint.
Flat-pack: Furniture that is shipped in flat boxes and needs to be assembled upon delivery; can also be called kit, ready-to-assemble (RTA), or knock-down (KD).
TEXTILES
Tufted: A method of rug production where cut fibers are inserted into a backing with a needle.
Knotted: A method of rug production where patterns are woven on a loom.
Hooked: A method of rug production when loops of fibers are pulled up through a backing with a hook.
Pile: The raised surface of a textile, typically a strand of yarn that’s either tufted or looped.
Woven: A fabric with separate yarns connected in an over-under, crisscross pattern.
Knit: A fabric with a single yarn strung together in interlocking loops.
Synthetic: Man-made fibers produced from chemicals, such as polyester, nylon, rayon, and spandex.
Pima/Supina: Pima is a high-quality extra-long-staple cotton (that is, cotton with fibers that are at least 1 ⅜ inches long) known to be extra soft yet extra durable. Supina is a portmanteau of “superior Pima” reserved for only the highest-quality Pima cotton from the United States, specifically.
Performance fabric: Fabric designed to be durable and easy to clean; can be water-resistant, stain-resistant, and wear-resistant, and is usually synthetic.
Martindale rub test: A Martindale is a unit of measure for a fabric’s abrasion resistance, and the Martindale method, also known as the Martindale rub test, is the procedure that actually tests fabrics to determine their abrasion resistance. For the test, a piece of fabric is placed between two disks that move in circles, wearing down the fabric until it shows signs of breakage: results are measured in thousands of rubs, a lower score indicates that a fabric is suitable for light use, while a higher score indicates that a fabric is suitable for heavy use.
Fabric grade: A ranking of a fabric’s cost of manufacturing from A (cheapest) to F (most expensive); this is set by individual furnituremakers, so there is no universal standard for the price of each letter grade.
Swatch: A sample of fabric.
COM: Acronym for “customer’s own material,” meaning the customer is providing the fabric for upholstery instead of purchasing from the furniture company.
GENERAL
Fair trade: A movement in global trade that seeks to provide fair wages to producers in developing countries; fair trade also supports the ethical treatment of workers and sustainability efforts in the supply chain. Several governing bodies offer official Fair-Trade certification for businesses, including the Fairtrade International (FLO) and Fair-Trade USA.
Antique: Per U.S. Customs and Border Protection (which is actually considered an authority figure on the matter because of trade), an object must be 100 years old to be considered an authentic antique. It typically needs to have historic and aesthetic value.
Vintage: There are no formal qualifiers for an object to be considered vintage, but the common consensus is that a vintage object generally needs to have some significance tied to a specific period during the last 20 to 99 years. Age is the major differentiator between antique and vintage objects.
Like the succulent and tillandsia craze, hanging wall planters may have begun as a bit of a boho-hipster obsession, but the trend has found a growing following among modernists and traditionalists alike. After all, what’s not to love? Wall-mounted planters showcase living greenery in sculptural forms that can enhance a blank surface in much the same way as art does, or break up a partition while injecting personality. Plus, this clever way of displaying your plants means you can pack your space with even more air-purifying goodness.
We’ve rounded up 21 of the best wall planters with options fit for every style, from whimsical animal-themed pots that’d be perfect in a nursery to minimalist geometric vessels that hang like jewels in a reading nook or kitchen corner. No matter which one you choose, they’re sure to add a touch of organic elegance to your space.
Cement Wall Planter Set
This cement planter is perfect for mounting inside or outside. You could plant a vining plant that would overflow (as pictured) or a plant a quirky array of succulent plants. Either way, it’ll look gorgeous. $55, Jungalow.
Make a statement with this oversized wall-mounted planter that hangs from a sleek brass ring. It’s got an understated elegance that will look good in any room. $180, Food52
You know all of those containers full of pennies that you’ve been hoarding for whatever reason? Well now you have something to do with them. Like Kelly Graham, owner of Etsy shop Camias Jewelry Designs, she decorated her floor using 7,500 real pennies.
“In a nutshell, the penny floor was a fun and cathartic project which I did back in 2015,” she writes. Using both old and new pennies (and if you look closely, just a few dimes to complement the copper), Graham arranged each coin to create her own variegated mosaic floor. After gluing each cent in place, she grouted the floor and coated it off with clear resin on top. “I’ve got a few kids, and it still looks in top shape,” she says, speaking to the floor’s durability.
Pretty cool. You can do the same thing. Hint: it doesn’t have to be that big.
